[clg82]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Ask, and you shall receive

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Camfab

Just a PSA here, take it or leave it. Not all V-bands are created equal. Many aftermarket V bands use machined flanges. Do yourself a favor and run Burns V-Bands. They use a bulge formed flange which to the uninitiated seems like an inferior product vs a machined flange.
Machined flanges warp like a SOB. The Burns flanges work and don’t leak. Rob I believe you said you’re an engineer, there is a reason why OEM’s use this style band. Yes they are pricey, they are worth every penny.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Ask, and you shall receive

HA! Good stuff.

Thanks for the note, Camfab. I didn't even realize there was another option to the machined versions. You aren't kidding, though! Man those things are very expensive for what they are. I'm going to stick with the machined versions for after the cat, but maybe I'll buy a pair for the header to cat connection since that's the only point where I really want to maintain a perfect seal.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

HA! Good stuff.

Thanks for the note, Camfab. I didn't even realize there was another option to the machined versions. You aren't kidding, though! Man those things are very expensive for what they are. I'm going to stick with the machined versions for after the cat, but maybe I'll buy a pair for the header to cat connection since that's the only point where I really want to maintain a perfect seal.

Based on the photos, looks like the same ones I have on my car... they are bad ass for sure! Perfect seal every time!

https://burnsstainless.com/products/...and-clamp-only

[Camfab]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Based on the photos, looks like the same ones I have on my car... they are bad ass for sure! Perfect seal every time!

https://burnsstainless.com/products/...and-clamp-only

Unfortunately, the clamp is not the secret sauce, it's the flanges. The machined flanges are welded as a slightly recessed butt joint. They require absolutely perfect fit up. As you weld them the stainless gets heat in it and starts relaxing whatever stress was in the material. They look amazing in person and on paper, but they are a nightmare in my opinion. The Burns flanges or any other flange of this type (formed with a bulged butted mating surface) is shaped like an "L" when observed from its profile. The material is quite thin and slips over the existing tube. When you weld the flange, the weldment is far from the flange face and the end of the tube. Additionally the forces created are not in line with face of the flange so distortion is very minimal. This design also makes for far easier installation. One note is that this type of flange does not work well within any radius. It does however allow for minute deviations in parallelism. The Pricing on the Burns stuff has always been crazy high, but they work and time has a cost associated with it. I'll try to find some pics of my work with those machined flanges.

[Joshinator99]

I’ve got Vibrant V-Bands on my setup and they have been flawless from new for the past few years. They look to be a bit less in price to the Burns ones but I’ve had good luck with them.

[RobZL1]

DSX fuel pump time!

Three helpful things to know about dropping the tank:

1) I knew this, but didn't think about it until I started to drop the tank: the fuel will be in the passenger side due to the siphon setup. Duh. So support should be offset toward the passenger side.

2) The diff cooler lines need to be capped and plugged with 1/2" caps and plugs up by the transmission and then can be moved aside.

3) The cradle to frame braces on either side of the tank need to be unbolted by the tank and pivoted down and out to allow the tank to drop. The cradle mount bolt does not need to be loosened.

The whole job was time consuming, as expected, but was necessary for the DSX wiring install. At a bare minimum, you'd need to lower the tank in the straps, but I would not be confident about getting the wiring where it needs to go. That said, if I ever need to get to the pump again, I'm probably ordering the GMS kit. Now that everything is in place, I really don't want to drop the tank again. Wouldn't be a big deal on a lift, but a little tedious on jack stands.

Here it is with stuff removed:




Here is what the harness connector on the driver's side looks like for reference for anyone feeling around when they do this:




Tank removed!






Here's the new pump ready to go, and then installed in the tank:






Ready for install:






Here is the connector on top, before it got tucked a little better:




Finally, the tank back in place!

[RobZL1]

A few more pics:

An offending frame brace after temporary relo:




The pump with the retainer and hoses:




The factory FPCM with harness spilt to the add-on FPCM:

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Great write up ROB! Looks like everything went smooth then? I have never dropped the tank while working on jackstands, but that is exactly what I was trying to avoid with my access hatch. Looks like you made quick work of it? maybe 5-6 hours total?

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Great write up ROB! Looks like everything went smooth then? I have never dropped the tank while working on jackstands, but that is exactly what I was trying to avoid with my access hatch. Looks like you made quick work of it? maybe 5-6 hours total?

Thanks, Gabe. It was straightforward, just time consuming. I took off the exhaust, driveshaft, oil lines, cover panels, etc. one afternoon, and then did the tank another afternoon. Both with a few breaks along the way. I'd say it was around 8 hours, but I'm pretty slow with this stuff compared to others. I enjoy checking out the car, double check everything, etc. It probably would have been 6 hours if I'd just gotten straight to it. Plus it's hard to get everything just right AND do it quickly on the ground. Getting the tank lined up, getting into weird positions around the jack to get the wiring routed correctly while it's halfway up into the hole... a lift would make this whole thing a lot faster.

I also still need to put in the driveshaft, fuel lines, exhaust, and all the shields/panels. I'm waiting on a driveshaft loop to arrive before I go any farther.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Thanks, Gabe. It was straightforward, just time consuming. I took off the exhaust, driveshaft, oil lines, cover panels, etc. one afternoon, and then did the tank another afternoon. Both with a few breaks along the way. I'd say it was around 8 hours, but I'm pretty slow with this stuff compared to others. I enjoy checking out the car, double check everything, etc. It probably would have been 6 hours if I'd just gotten straight to it. Plus it's hard to get everything just right AND do it quickly on the ground. Getting the tank lined up, getting into weird positions around the jack to get the wiring routed correctly while it's halfway up into the hole... a lift would make this whole thing a lot faster.

I also still need to put in the driveshaft, fuel lines, exhaust, and all the shields/panels. I'm waiting on a driveshaft loop to arrive before I go any farther.

That makes sense time wise. A few experienced shops I spoke to said this is a 5 hour bill rate even when using a lift... so when they could swap a bump on now 2.5 hours, they are pretty excited. Honestly but biggest concern was not even the install, it was the potential "loose connection" issue where you need to touch the pump, or float, or whatever else 1-3 more times to get it dialed in... so the thought of doing what you just did more than once in 90 days, was enough to fuel my efforts to create the hatch

Like you, I really felt alot better about doing the drop in pump, and the DSX looks like one of the best options for sure. Your install looks great, and I am sure it is going to perform as designed!

1000rwhp here we come!!!

[Owl3]

Other than availability, do you think DSX is better than Katech for the pump? Does Fore supply more fuel than either of them?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Owl3

Other than availability, do you think DSX is better than Katech for the pump? Does Fore supply more fuel than either of them?

Fore is available as a triple pump setup so it will outflow anything else out there. But triple is definitely overkill for 98% of the builds out there. Depends on your ultimate power goal.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Owl3

Other than availability, do you think DSX is better than Katech for the pump? Does Fore supply more fuel than either of them?

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Fore is available as a triple pump setup so it will outflow anything else out there. But triple is definitely overkill for 98% of the builds out there. Depends on your ultimate power goal.

Indeed. That triple pump will push more than either double pump. I think what you choose also has to do with your end goal for the car, in addition to the power goal.

On the one hand, if you plan to put the car on the road course, go with a factory bucket design like the Katech or the DSX. Both retain the factory features that keep the bucket full.

On the other hand, if you are planning an all-out drag car or other straight line variant, nothing outperforms the Fore triple.

Between the Katech and the DSX, I chose the DSX regardless of availability. I liked the integration of the second factory FPCM and full control within the factory ECM strategy versus the vaporworx controller. Both are great solutions, I just liked the DSX better personally. That, and the DSX is about $250 cheaper.

[Owl3]

How hard is it to set up the Fore triple?