[zx9rmal]

I have just over 33K miles on my ZL1. No track miles, just normal street driving with not a lot of hard braking. I need to inspect the pads, but how many miles can I expect to get out of the originals?

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

I have just over 33K miles on my ZL1. No track miles, just normal street driving with not a lot of hard braking. I need to inspect the pads, but how many miles can I expect to get out of the originals?

On my 1LE Pads, I squeezed ~ 20k miles out of mine and that is also with engine braking for the majority of my stopping. If yours are like mine, they're ready to be changed.

[cdb95z28]

Realistically, there are too many variables to give an accurate answer. YMMV...

[zx9rmal]

So I just stopped at the dealer. They want $1300 to change just the front pads and resurface the rotors (which they do automatically). Maybe I’m stuck in the 70’s but this seems very high.

[SWFLZL1]

If you don’t track it, buy a set of powerstop z26 pads. Stops just as well on the street, and a fraction of the dust.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

So I just stopped at the dealer. They want $1300 to change just the front pads and resurface the rotors (which they do automatically). Maybe I’m stuck in the 70’s but this seems very high.

So easy to do it yourself. If they are within min thickness, you don't have to resurface the rotors. It helps but it's not neccesary. IOW, if you only need to swap pads, it it so easy on these cars.

[zx9rmal]

I don't have a service manual but I assume it's basically pull the wheel, remove the caliper, and drop the pads in? Anything to be aware of?

Is there a video or photos somewhere? Thanks.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

I don't have a service manual but I assume it's basically pull the wheel, remove the caliper, and drop the pads in? Anything to be aware of?

Is there a video or photos somewhere? Thanks.

You don't need a manual. I am sure there are 100 videos on YouTube about changing brake pads on a ZL1. You don't need to remove the calipers. There are retaining pins you remove and the pads slide out.

[zx9rmal]

Thanks for the info. Will do it myself and save a grand. That being said, any recommendations in addition to the Powerstop pads? No track useage.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

Thanks for the info. Will do it myself and save a grand. That being said, any recommendations in addition to the Powerstop pads? No track useage.

I recommend against the Powerstop pads. They don't have good bite, and in my case, glazed the rotors and caused pulsation when braking. Stock pads are best IMHO.

[jbp8653]

I changed out my pads to power stops right after I bought car in 2017. I do not track car. The initial bite a bit less but at the end of the day, it's no big deal. Car stops very well and there is noooooo dust!!!!Just got a new Z06 that has the same dusting issue. Have power stops on order!!!

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

I don't have a service manual but I assume it's basically pull the wheel, remove the caliper, and drop the pads in? Anything to be aware of?

Is there a video or photos somewhere? Thanks.

You don't need to remove the caliper for a pad slap. Just punch out the 2 pins, and undo the retaining bolt. Retaining bolt torque is 24 ft-lbs IIRC.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pznb72NGFzU

[zx9rmal]

Looks easy peasy. I don't want to damage the pistons so what's the best way to push them back into the caliper without a special tool?

Interstingly, I decided to look at the front pads. Looking at the forward side of the caliper, it appears I have a good 1/4" of pad left on the backing plate. Hard to believe with 33K miles. But, as I said above, I do not track the car or do a lot of hard braking.

Thanks for the help fellas.

[Gunkk]

Big flathead screwdriver or a small pry bar. Pry on the piston, not the rubber.

I like to open the bleeder when I push back the pistons because a) it lets the old cooked fluid out and most of the cooking happens there for obvious reasons, and b) it doesn't push any dirt/debris/precipitates back up through the brake lines into the ABS which can do Bad_Things(TM) to the ABS module.

Obviously this requires a bit of technique to avoid getting air in the system as well as some extra fresh fluid ... but I find a long piece of clear tygon tube with an "air loop" above the bleeder will allow you to see the color of the fluid, ensure no air gets in, and allows you to contain the mess by not getting brake fluid all over the caliper, rotor and pads.

YMMV.