[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

yes sir happy to see it working again!
Great work on the write up Rob! Best one on the forum so far!!!

Thanks, Gabe. I don't know if it's the best, but hopefully has some good info for folks going down the same path in the future. The amount of platform-specific knowledge on a few forums like this one is amazing. I'm just happy to finally contribute.

Pushrods will be here tomorrow. I'll bolt them in and check actual preload and report where it landed.

[RobZL1]

Pushrods installed and verified.

There is certainly something to be said for gauge length vs overall measured length. The set of 7.850's I bought from BTR measured 7.862" to 7.877" in terms of overall length, but the gauge length is what is tightly controlled.

I took the longest and shortest rod as measured by calipers, and tested both of them on the valves that required the longest and shortest rods. Then I tested a random rod from the box in the middle of the range at both of those valves.

Lastly, I tested a random rod on a valve that measured in the middle of the range for required pushrod length.

The results:
The 3 rods all measured the same preload in a given spot in the engine (within a thousandth).

In my three test positions, I measured actual preload to range from 0.035" to 0.046". This is about 0.005" more than I expected, and puts me right into the range recommended by Katech. Woohoo! I'll assume the other 13 positions fall into the range at this point and call it good.

For what it's worth, the easiest way to measure actual preload is to torque the rocker first, then measure the preload on the dial indicator as you back out the screw. The needle will stop moving once you get to zero lash, and that's your preload!

[Evansa22]

My question to you would be, will you build me a motor? Haha
Great work!

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Pushrods installed and verified.

There is certainly something to be said for gauge length vs overall measured length. The set of 7.850's I bought from BTR measured 7.862" to 7.877" in terms of overall length, but the gauge length is what is tightly controlled.

I took the longest and shortest rod as measured by calipers, and tested both of them on the valves that required the longest and shortest rods. Then I tested a random rod from the box in the middle of the range at both of those valves.

Lastly, I tested a random rod on a valve that measured in the middle of the range for required pushrod length.

The results:
The 3 rods all measured the same preload in a given spot in the engine (within a thousandth).

In my three test positions, I measured actual preload to range from 0.035" to 0.046". This is about 0.005" more than I expected, and puts me right into the range recommended by Katech. Woohoo! I'll assume the other 13 positions fall into the range at this point and call it good.

For what it's worth, the easiest way to measure actual preload is to torque the rocker first, then measure the preload on the dial indicator as you back out the screw. The needle will stop moving once you get to zero lash, and that's your preload!

Attachment 1167339

Excellent work, Rob. Keep it up my man!

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

My question to you would be, will you build me a motor? Haha
Great work!

Ha! Honestly I would love to! More fun than my day job.

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Excellent work, Rob. Keep it up my man!

Thanks for the compliments. It's about ready to drop back in!

Forgot to mention that I put thread sealer on the intake rocker bolts. I don't think the Katech porting got into the heads that deep, but it is easy insurance just in case.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

I would like to report this thread to ADMIN... it's been over 30 days without an update or photos... this is BS.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

I would like to report this thread to ADMIN... it's been over 30 days without an update or photos... this is BS.

Hmmm… ban?

[RobZL1]

Yeah, yeah. Gimme a couple hours. I have an update. Ruthless.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Hmmm… ban?

Yeah... maybe we give him 24hrs to get his sh*t together, then BAN

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Yeah, yeah. Gimme a couple hours. I have an update. Ruthless.

The clock is ticking...

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Yeah, yeah. Gimme a couple hours. I have an update. Ruthless.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Yeah... maybe we give him 24hrs to get his sh*t together, then BAN

[RobZL1]

Alright, ya filthy animals!

Not a huge update, but an update nonetheless. Been both sick and busy recently, so today was the first day in a while that I was able to put some time into it.

The first thing I did was carefully remove the JMS to pass it along to another forum member.



Then I knocked out the first part of the DSX dual intank installation, which was adding the trunk bulkhead fitting, the second FPCM, and the wiring harness and fuse to the battery.

As expected from Mr. Steck, the kit is very well thought out and the instructions are very good. The first step is to clear out the trunk pan and cut a hole for the bulkhead fitting. DSX includes 3 progressive 3D-printed templates to ensure you get the holes and cuts exactly where they need to be.



You simply mark and drill, move to the next template and go again. Then pass the gasketed fitting through the new hole and screw it in once you are all done.









Then you just run the wiring harness over to the battery, and you're done! Very straightforward. Here is the finished product. Looks OEM, as expected from Dave.





That's all I have for now. Tomorrow I'll start on the pump. Please don't ban me, Josh.
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[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Alright, ya filthy animals!

Not a huge update, but an update nonetheless. Been both sick and busy recently, so today was the first day in a while that I was able to put some time into it.

The first thing I did was carefully remove the JMS to pass it along to another forum member.

Attachment 1168027

Then I knocked out the first part of the DSX dual intank installation, which was adding the trunk bulkhead fitting, the second FPCM, and the wiring harness and fuse to the battery.

As expected from Mr. Steck, the kit is very well thought out and the instructions are very good. The first step is to clear out the trunk pan and cut a hole for the bulkhead fitting. DSX includes 3 progressive 3D-printed templates to ensure you get the holes and cuts exactly where they need to be.

Attachment 1168028

You simply mark and drill, move to the next template and go again. Then pass the gasketed fitting through the new hole and screw it in once you are all done.

Attachment 1168029

Attachment 1168030

Attachment 1168031

Attachment 1168032

Then you just run the wiring harness over to the battery, and you're done! Very straightforward. Here is the finished product. Looks OEM, as expected from Dave.

Attachment 1168033

Attachment 1168034

That's all I have for now. Tomorrow I'll start on the pump. Please don't ban me, Josh.
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Great work ROB! Super clean work on the JMS removal and bulkhead install! I agree, loving that template! I hope the JMS is going to a good home!

I vote to suspend the previously discussed Ban. Well done kind sir!

[Joshinator99]

Nice! That’s pretty slick.