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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2018 SS / 2021 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Lima, ny
Posts: 40
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Cam difficulty and expense?
Hey everyone.
I have a 2018 SS and just bought a 2021ZL1. ZL one is fast as hell to begin with and I just put a XE exhaust on and it sounds awesome. I’m just wondering I do like the sound of a highlift Cam, how hard and expensive is that to put in a LT four engine. I would probably pay somebody but all I really want out of it is that nice highlift cam sound the car is fast enough performance is great. Anyone have experience with just a Cam job I don’t know how much else you’d have to do if you put a high of Cam in? |
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#2 |
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fo'shizZL1
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,805
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I wouldn't say it's hard, but it's time consuming regardless of if you do it yourself or pay somebody. Not nearly as easy or cheap as the LS motors. See several of our build threads for an idea of what you'd be getting into.
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2017 ZL1 M6 Black | Maggie 2650 // 103TB // Big Gulp // CSP LT's & Ultra Cats // BMR MM // BC Forged KL13
Mods being installed- oil pump, cam, ported heads, dual in-tank, Goliath and XDI, corn, etc., etc. |
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#3 |
![]() Drives: blue velvet Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 163
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Why not cam the SS instead?
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#4 |
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Super Stock
Drives: Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Join Date: May 2022
Location: Concordia
Posts: 782
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This right here through and through. These aren't as simple as LS cars anymore indeed.
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2017 Red Hot ZL1 A10 - Apex ARC-8's, 305/ 325 PS4's, DSX 9.06 12% lower, Griptec 2.5 upper, NGK HR7 Ruthenium plugs, Nostrum 22+ injectors, XDI Goliath HPFP, Katech dual in tank low side pump, Katech oil pump, LME tensioner, DOD delete, LT1 big fuel cam, Jokerz ported blower, MPI lid, GMS hood extractor bracket, Soler ported 87mm (91mm eff) TB, Granatelli SS plug wires, Cordes LTR reservoir, DMS T-stat housing, 186* LS3 T-stat, Black Widow Angry Housewife/ Corsa NPP mufflers, Borla X pipe, BMR engine mounts, Banks iDash, Lithium Battery, AEM X- Series, HP Tuners, E85, 16.5 psi
834 HP/ 840 TQ |
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 2018 SS / 2021 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Lima, ny
Posts: 40
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Thanks guys. Will go see the build forum.
Could cam the SS but my wife has that car now and it would drive me nuts hearing that car cammed before mine but is an idea if it’s a lot easier |
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#6 |
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Having FUN in the SUN...
![]() Drives: 2022 M6 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 2,056
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Well said Rob. I agree it's not a terrible job, but because there are alot of ways to mess this up, you have to have an experienced friend, our some sharp skills. I have heard of labor costing between $4-5k for the install only... which is one reason why alot of people end up wanting to do this DIY. What did you decide?
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 7,561
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It will cost 5-7k for a cam install with parts, labor, fluids, and tune. It's not hard but it's a lengthy process. Super easy to miss steps. You basically have to tear the engine down to the short block, for that reason a lot of shops pull the engine to complete the job.
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2016 NFG SS A8/Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel |
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 19' ZL1 A10, w/pdr Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: S.W. ohio
Posts: 1,700
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To do the cam correctly and utilize it's potential there will be other parts involved. You should also be thinking, lifters, pushrods, springs and rockers to name a few. Not to mention fueling needs like a bigger throttle body. Try to think more in terms of a how each component is needed to support the other to get the best return. JMO
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BTR Stg II cam w/ 38% fuel lobe, ARH 2" headers into 3" w/Gesi cats, Kong X port, Weapon X triple ht exchangers, NW 103, Rotofab big gulp, DSX lowside, TCM tune, BMR Lockout, Mustang dyno 720 rwhp, 634 rwtq on 93 pump.
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#9 |
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old school chevy rodder
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I would say with your location talk to Jannetty......
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data,Red Carbon Interior, Nav, RotoFab Big Gulp , Elite x2ultra, Borla ATAK, Driveshaft shop, BMR susp, Speed covers, intercoolers, ATI , 2650 MAG, DSX lid, 103 NW, TSP Longtubes & cats, LPE, 1le mods, ,LME cover, Katech pump and chain, Trunnions, BTR stage 2, LPE boostapump, Gforce, Speed eng , Granetteli, etc etc
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#10 |
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Banned
Drives: 2020 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,724
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The shop I’ve been talking too says they don’t pull the engine for a cam install. What’s the good/bad of doing it this way aside from maybe saving time on labor.
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#11 | |
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fo'shizZL1
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,805
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Quote:
In the car: - Remove the radiator+HX+a/c pack, and discharge/recharge the A/C - Clean off the gasket surfaces, bolt holes, etc. at odd angles If it matters to you, you cannot hold the back of the cam while torquing the crap out of the cam bolt (unless you go with a 3-bolt cam where it won't matter). The risk here is stretching the timing chain, though most don't seem to care. Out of the car: - Don't have to pull the radiator pack or discharge the A/C - Can clean everything with easy access - Can grab the back of the cam and also inspect clutch or flex plate Six of one, half a dozen of the other. To me, it certainly seems easier out of the car, but then again I'm turning into an old man who doesn't like to contort his body any more than necessary. ![]() I'm sure it's a little less time consuming to leave it in the car, but several of the folks on this forum who have done it both ways have said they would likely just pull the motor given a choice. I know most of the spotless-reputation shops (Vengeance, Katech, JRE) all pull the motor.
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2017 ZL1 M6 Black | Maggie 2650 // 103TB // Big Gulp // CSP LT's & Ultra Cats // BMR MM // BC Forged KL13
Mods being installed- oil pump, cam, ported heads, dual in-tank, Goliath and XDI, corn, etc., etc. |
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#12 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2023 ZL1 - All Bolt On's Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 1,188
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When you add a CAM (if it's a lot different than the factory CAM specs), with everything else being the same. Do you lose boost vs boost you had before adding the CAM? Like not much, but still loose say like 2psi to 3psi?
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2023 ZL1 A10-Stainless Works 2" Long Tubes & Legend NPP Axle Back•GESI UHO 4.5" CATs•RF BigGulp•Kong 103mm & X-Ported Blower•Griptech 2.30" Upper•ATI Super Damper w/9.45" Lower•THPSI Port Injection w/875cc Injectors•FI Interchillers Stage 2•Brisk RR14S Plugs•Granatelli Malevolent Coils•Katech Low Profile Billet Valve Covers•Katech Duel Fuel Pump•MM Wild 1000HP•DSX Flex Fuel Kit•DSX Billet Lid•DMS 2gal Fender Tank•BMR Cradle Lockout•Weld Solana 18x8 Fronts/17x10 Beadlocks MT ET ST R's•Unlocked TCM•E85=785rwhp/691rwtq +21psi | 1/4=10.5005 @134.21 60ft=1.6182, 1/8=6.8373 @106.11
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#13 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 7,561
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Anytime you increase flow on the outlet side of the compressor you will see a drop in boost psi. And anytime you increase flow on the inlet side of the compressor you will increase boost psi. How much gain/loss in psi varies on how much restriction was prior and how much flow was increased.
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2016 NFG SS A8/Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel |
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#14 | |
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Having FUN in the SUN...
![]() Drives: 2022 M6 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 2,056
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Quote:
Although, putting my "business owner" cap on.. I could see a benefit of reduced liability by keeping the motor in the car, so my guess is that it could be based on liability / risk... not necessarily time. I am confident that an experienced shop could do it either way with success. For me, I did NOT want to be leaning in for all of the work, and did not want to mess with the oil pan on my back... so pulling the engine, being able to have better access to all components, as well as the ability to rotate the engine was a plus... Hope that helps.
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