[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

NICE work! Coming out great. Super attention to detail.

Thanks, Josh! Just trying to keep up with you guys.

Plus, it's the mechanical engineer in me coming out. I don't get that at work anymore as my role doesn't really get into any technical details anymore, so all my OCD engineer mind gets poured into this stuff. I ultimately just hope it runs and doesn't leak.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

It's a huge time killer, for sure. There are many more painful cleaning portions than fun assembly. I knew the gaskets would be a time suck, but man, what a pain!

Yeah, you know, little issues. What is the plan? Are you going to upgrade the pump or go port?

The RTV stuff is not horrible at all brother. I actually like it. Just make sure you try to sand the mating surfaces so the RTV will stick nice and proper, lay a nice solid bead and work in a quick- ish motion trying to keep it all pretty fluid and moving it out of the tube as even pressured as you can. It definitely works worlds better than rubber gaskets, especially GM's because their stuff is prone to leakage. At least with RTV you can choose from several different MFR's if you know which one works best unlike the proprietary GM gaskets.

Well, I got inspections coming up and I'm trying to clear up monitors for now so I'm all good, but once I'm done with that I'm going to have to mess with my pressure settings and see if I would be capable of decreasing high pressure pump duty so it's not being taxed to the point of max out. I have two different tunes ready with different fuel pressure and map changes, but if they don't pan out enough to the point where the readings are still making me uncomfortable whether it be injector PW's, rail pressure or high side lobe duration I'll have no choice but to swing for a Goliath high pressure pump and that extra 10% headroom in fueling should be just enough to satisfy the current fuel demand that the engine has now.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by radz28

You gots nice knees

HAHAHAHAHA

I was gonna say, is he even wearing any pants?!? Nice build, love following stuff like this.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Looks like good progress being made !!! Well Done !!!

PS: I still have no driveshaft

[radz28]

MANY MANY KUDOS TO ALL THE GREAT WORK!!! Thanks for the helpful tips, too!!! That's some professional-shop-work right there!!!

CHEERS!!!

[Curr]

This is freakin awesome... way above my ability, but as an engineer, I love seeing the insides and well done assy pics.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

The RTV stuff is not horrible at all brother. I actually like it. Just make sure you try to sand the mating surfaces so the RTV will stick nice and proper, lay a nice solid bead and work in a quick- ish motion trying to keep it all pretty fluid and moving it out of the tube as even pressured as you can. It definitely works worlds better than rubber gaskets, especially GM's because their stuff is prone to leakage. At least with RTV you can choose from several different MFR's if you know which one works best unlike the proprietary GM gaskets.

Well, I got inspections coming up and I'm trying to clear up monitors for now so I'm all good, but once I'm done with that I'm going to have to mess with my pressure settings and see if I would be capable of decreasing high pressure pump duty so it's not being taxed to the point of max out. I have two different tunes ready with different fuel pressure and map changes, but if they don't pan out enough to the point where the readings are still making me uncomfortable whether it be injector PW's, rail pressure or high side lobe duration I'll have no choice but to swing for a Goliath high pressure pump and that extra 10% headroom in fueling should be just enough to satisfy the current fuel demand that the engine has now.

I'm just not a fan. I'm all done with it though. Everything is sealed up now. It's just the removal and cleaning that was painful; putting it back together was a breeze.

Good luck with the fuel headroom. Your "big fuel" cam has a 32% lobe on it, right?

With all of the fuel challenges you guys have had, I just went ahead and bit the bullet with the Goliath and XDI +70's. That should carry me to my goal on full pump E with maybe a little headroom to spare.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by clg82

I was gonna say, is he even wearing any pants?!? Nice build, love following stuff like this.

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Looks like good progress being made !!! Well Done !!!

PS: I still have no driveshaft

Originally Posted by radz28

MANY MANY KUDOS TO ALL THE GREAT WORK!!! Thanks for the helpful tips, too!!! That's some professional-shop-work right there!!!

CHEERS!!!

Originally Posted by Curr

This is freakin awesome... way above my ability, but as an engineer, I love seeing the insides and well done assy pics.

Many thanks, gentlemen! I appreciate the kind words. I know I'm probably going overkill on much of this stuff, but hey, that's what hobbies are for, right?

If I did this for a living I'd never make any profit doing it this way.

For the record, I was wearing shorts. The garage is hot in the summer, but not that hot.

Scott, from what I've heard about DSS customer service, you may be waiting on a response for some time, unfortunately.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

I'm just not a fan. I'm all done with it though. Everything is sealed up now. It's just the removal and cleaning that was painful; putting it back together was a breeze.

Good luck with the fuel headroom. Your "big fuel" cam has a 32% lobe on it, right?

With all of the fuel challenges you guys have had, I just went ahead and bit the bullet with the Goliath and XDI +70's. That should carry me to my goal on full pump E with maybe a little headroom to spare.

Yeah but to be entirely transparent here a ported blower was never in the initial plans when doing the cam. It turned out that the power the big fuel cam made was so much more that it wound up making the injectors run to high on PW's so that led to me getting the 30 overs then after I got them I said to myself, "well if the blower has to come off again to do injectors, why not allow for maximum power and breathability of the setup?" which led to me doing the ported blower and now here I am maxed out again.

I think at the time, we took a compressor and wire wheel attachment to the gun and just wire wheeled every mating surface along with the work of a flat blade screwdriver and razor as well. It worked out good and made quick work of the clean up process but I agree. Dealing with RTV is annoying. Way more effective than gaskets though so I'll take the payoff for putting in a little more effort and work.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Well done Rob! Amazing job documenting with great photos and write ups for everyone else who may be intimidated by the job, to hopefully help get them through it!

Keep it up!

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Well done Rob! Amazing job documenting with great photos and write ups for everyone else who may be intimidated by the job, to hopefully help get them through it!

Keep it up!

Thanks, Gabe!

[RobZL1]

Question for all of you fuel system gurus:

What am I missing or what would you change in the low side components I'm proposing?

In order from tank to HPFP:

1) DSX Dual In-tank (with the 285 pumps that have the internal check valves)

2) -10AN line

3) Fuel filter

4) -10AN line

5) Ethanol sensor

6) -10AN line

7) HPFP


I guess I could hook the fuel filter and ethanol sensor together and put them on the same bracket under the car as an option to eliminate some complexity. Jury is still out on where I put the sensor. Under the car would be stealth: "nope, no good fuel here, just a simple LT4 on 93 with a 2650..."

I'd also like to hear thoughts on the 285 pumps vs the 295 pumps (295 is same pump without the internal check valve apparently). On the bucket itself I'd think the 285 pumps with the internal check valves would kind of be a necessity so as not to push the fuel back through the 2nd pump when it's not activated. Apparently I don't understand how the dual system works internally from a plumbing standpoint, as the DSX website says you can run the 295's with no problem. I'm not sure what the cons are (if any) for the extra small amount of flow.

Somewhat related, I'd prefer not to run a check valve in the main fuel line once I remove the dinky stock line with the check valve, since the Lingenfelter check valve is pretty expensive for what it is. Several people have said you can run without a check valve without issue.

Thanks in advance for thoughts and ideas on the topic!

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Question for all of you fuel system gurus:

What am I missing or what would you change in the low side components I'm proposing?

In order from tank to HPFP:

1) DSX Dual In-tank (with the 285 pumps that have the internal check valves)

2) -10AN line

3) Fuel filter

4) -10AN line

5) Ethanol sensor

6) -10AN line

7) HPFP


I guess I could hook the fuel filter and ethanol sensor together and put them on the same bracket under the car as an option to eliminate some complexity. Jury is still out on where I put the sensor. Under the car would be stealth: "nope, no good fuel here, just a simple LT4 on 93 with a 2650..."

I'd also like to hear thoughts on the 285 pumps vs the 295 pumps (295 is same pump without the internal check valve apparently). On the bucket itself I'd think the 285 pumps with the internal check valves would kind of be a necessity so as not to push the fuel back through the 2nd pump when it's not activated. Apparently I don't understand how the dual system works internally from a plumbing standpoint, as the DSX website says you can run the 295's with no problem. I'm not sure what the cons are (if any) for the extra small amount of flow.

Somewhat related, I'd prefer not to run a check valve in the main fuel line once I remove the dinky stock line with the check valve, since the Lingenfelter check valve is pretty expensive for what it is. Several people have said you can run without a check valve without issue.

Thanks in advance for thoughts and ideas on the topic!

Your ethanol sensor needs to be in a special “bypass fitting” or doing -10AN becomes pointless lol

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Your ethanol sensor needs to be in a special “bypass fitting” or doing -10AN becomes pointless lol

Oh yeah. Absolutely agree! On that note, do i even need -10 or is it overkill?