[Rich292]

Originally Posted by bishopts

I used to run 5w30 until i found this case of 15w40 that someone was throwing out.

You might want to look at that case of oil or whatever oil you are using now a little more closely.

Going to the 15W is probably fine if you aren't experiencing very cold temperatures. 15W is certified down to -4*F.

The bigger issue is that generally speaking, 15W40 grades of oil are formulated for diesel engines. In the past, before we got all the new standards of oil, it was popular for some people to run diesel engine oil because they thought it was better for the engine. However, that isn't the case, especially as compared to the newest oils that you could buy that are for gas engines.

So, the weight, probably ok. But the formulation of the oil might not be very good for your application. You should look for the approvals and information on the case to determine if that's a diesel oil, or if it's an older spec of gasoline engine oil.

If the specs are right, you're ok. If the specs are not right, I wouldn't use it.

Besides, people usually don't throw away good oil. It's possible it's just used oil they put back into the containers for disposal. I do that all the time.

[beowulf556]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Kind of, but you want the 0W-40 (your link is 5W-50)

Do you have a link? Only one I can find is european? Unless thats it? I'm only looking on Amazon currently.

[Justcruising]

Originally Posted by havelegs

Just use the damn supercar..

Shit like this makes me want to just sell the Camaro and get a Genesis.

Thats all I use

[nikerret]

Originally Posted by beowulf556

Do you have a link? Only one I can find is european? Unless thats it? I'm only looking on Amazon currently.

This is the 0w-40 Supercar (out of stock).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXPNH7S...sin_title&th=1

This is the ESP X3, there is a newer version, X4, but it’s hard to find. This X3 is a small, step up from the 0w-40 Supercar.

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-ESP-0W-...e%2C135&sr=1-1

[SnakeEyeSS]

Originally Posted by GreenZLE

I just cant resist saying this: The factory apparently DOES NOT know what oil is best for your engine!!!!

No kidding, a case could be made for just completely ignoring GM recommendations at this point .

For people that weren't around or forgot:

This is the SECOND botched fluid discovery since the 6th Gen released. The 8 speed had a faulty fluid ruining the transmissions. The first sounded like Mobil's fault, but GM also played stupid on it for too long.

[RallyRunner]

maybe out of left field but this seems relevant to share here, i just got my most recent oil analysis back from Oil Analyzers. I've been running ESP X3 and now Supercar 0W-40 on this last change. i'm driving about 80% highway, 200 miles a week every week as a commuter but i lean on the car hard every now and then to stretch its legs.

as you can see even with regular driving the fuel dilution is consistently 1.5% or more. I completely ignore the OLM and personally capped my intervals at 5k miles for this reason although i could probably push to 6k with no issues if i wanted, but 5k miles is easier to remember haha.

its been interesting to see iron (steel parts, chain and valvetrain especially) come down. i bought the car during a cold snap in Jan. 2024 and it had sat on the lot for a while. i have a feeling the sales guys would fire it up stone cold and horse it around going on joyrides and you can see the wear that added although the engine shrugged it off. Ignore oxidation, that reading is skewed because these oils come from the factory with high oxidation as a characteristic of their formulation (this is why it wasn't flagged on the most recent report).

[wakespeak]

Stop/start is just a stupid gimmick. The oil drains down and then the light turns green and you immediately rev an engine with no oil pressure. Awesome. xw-20 runs right off also. Its all bad. If the engine were originally designed for this with oversized rod bearings and other stuff like an electric oil pump...maybe...ok.

The LT1 needs a xw-40. The previous comments on an HTHS of >=3.5 makes sense if you push it at all. ACEA A3 rating is an easy way to ensure HTHS of 3.5 or higher. Personally I like Mobil1 turbo diesel truck, although the HTHS is not in Mobil's docs. Buy it anywhere for $25/gal. I would say it is right at 3.5. IMO its Mobil's stoutest, commercial duty oil with a great additive package. It is SN rated for spark ignition.

[Rich292]

Originally Posted by wakespeak

Stop/start is just a stupid gimmick. The oil drains down and then the light turns green and you immediately rev an engine with no oil pressure. Awesome. xw-20 runs right off also. Its all bad. If the engine were originally designed for this with oversized rod bearings and other stuff like an electric oil pump...maybe...ok.

The LT1 needs a xw-40. The previous comments on an HTHS of >=3.5 makes sense if you push it at all. ACEA A3 rating is an easy way to ensure HTHS of 3.5 or higher. Personally I like Mobil1 turbo diesel truck, although the HTHS is not in Mobil's docs. Buy it anywhere for $25/gal. I would say it is right at 3.5. IMO its Mobil's stoutest, commercial duty oil with a great additive package. It is SN rated for spark ignition.

That's not a bad choice for an oil, but there are a couple things you could probably look at or alter that might be helpful to you.

First, ACEA A3/B4 or C3 are going to have the HTHS over 3.5. A3/B4 is the high SAPS formulations, C3 is mid SAPS. Otherwise, they both have the same standards for things like wear, sludge formation, and so on.

I also think you might want to reconsider using a diesel oil in your car. Diesel oil has a lot more detergent that increases wear (because it competes with the anti-wear additives) and which makes your direct injected engine more susceptible to LSPI, even if that isn't much of a concern on these cars. Here's a video that explains it in detail:



So, if you aren't concerned about warranty coverage and buying a Dexos rated oil (which that version of Mobil isn't), you might as well pick something better for the car. I would say that your best option if you aren't going with Dexos rated oil is this:

- API SP or SQ rated oil (the SN oil you're using us significantly worse for a DI engine than the new stuff)
- ACEA A3/B4 or C3 rating on top of the API SP/SQ rating
- You can also look at some other manufacturer requirements that will help confirm it's a good oil. I like to see either a BMW LL01 (high SAPS) or BMW LL04 (mid SAPS) and/or a Porsche A40 (high SAPS) or Porsche C40 (mid SAPS) rating on the oil. Those other manufacturer approvals are less important, but it gives some indication of a good quality oil.
- There are also a few standby oils that are really excellent quality that will only be API rated because they aren't European oils (which is the ACEA rating system). That's something like the Mobil 1 15w50, or Castrol has a few good Edge options like their 10w40 or 5w50. There's also a ton of other good options from quality manufacturers like Motul, Valvoline, and Pennzoil. So you have lots of options.

[keep_hope_alive]

Autzone sells Mobil 1 ESP X4 and you can get 10qts delivered for $95.

[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

Autzone sells Mobil 1 ESP X4 and you can get 10qts delivered for $95.

That's what I've been using since my first oil change (X3 before until X4 came out). It's DexosR approved, so no issues with warranty. I have never paid more than $85 for 10 quarts of oil and two oil filters in their package deal that they always have. I always return the filters for a refund since I prefer to use AC Delco PF64 filters. I end up paying about $6.50 a quart.

I guess I will never understand these ridiculous extended drain intervals that were not designed for longevity of your engine. They were designed to help the manufacturers meet EPA regs. and to make it appear to clueless owners that their new car rarely needs maintenance. I will never go more than 5K on an oil no matter what. Don't care what the oil monitor says, what the internet hype says, or what oil analysis says. Nothing and no one is going to convince me that 8-10K+ mile oil changes are great for your engine. Just my opinion.

[N Camarolina]

Right now the "deal" price at Autozone is a bit high compared to their usual. As MT-SS1LE, should be ~$80 for 5 quarts plus filter, which you can then return as it's the wrong filter anyway.

Maybe they are worsening the deal to see if there is still interest. I'll hold out!!

[DaveC113]

I switched to M1 Supercar 5w50 from 0w40. Mostly track and autox use. Here's a link to the two SC oils:

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...supercar-5w-50

No HTHS but the M1 FS 5w50 is 4.3 I believe. Interesting the 5w50 is API SP and 0w40 is not.

It was developed specifically for the C8Z, so it's lower in detergents and higher in anti-wear and while it may not last a long time we generally don't go for extended oil change intervals anyways.

[truth411]

I use pennzoil ultra platinum for all my vehicles, it really is a dang good oil.
Pennzoil just dont pay for GM certification, that mobil 1 supercar 0w-40 is just mobil1 Esp rebranded. It's a SN Plus rated oil not Api SP if I remember correctly.

[lowke]

Originally Posted by truth411

I use pennzoil ultra platinum for all my vehicles, it really is a dang good oil.
Pennzoil just dont pay for GM certification, that mobil 1 supercar 0w-40 is just mobil1 Esp rebranded. It's a SN Plus rated oil not Api SP if I remember correctly.

I'm on my 3rd oil change with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in my 21 V6. I read it reduced oil going to the intake tube on a GMC canyon. It has reduced mine to vary little and at 80k miles it runs great. I've read that pp is on the thin side and hths this is not the best. The new GF7 classification came out this spring and hths has been lowered. Thin oil at operating temp makes for efficiency and power. It seems like that is the thing now. I wonder if protection is being sacrificed with thinner oils at operating temp.It is said pp and pup is a good oil that needs less additives. PP is always at my local Walmart, 5quarts 5w-30, $25