[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I bought a Milwaukee 1/4” M12 ratchet this year for this task specifically and I have to say it’s life changing lol. I used to just manually ratchet all those little fasteners off and then wonder if I was developing carpal tunnel. The 1/4” Milwaukee ratchet made the job SO much faster.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hell yeah, same here... except I have the much nicer looking, more durable, more ergonomic, faster, cooler.... DEWALT version

Back when it was time to refresh my tools from scratch, I tossed a coin and went with DeWalt, so almost everything I have, apart from a few Milwaukee hand tools, is a wireless unit from DeWalt. Their ratcheting wrench is pretty nice, too, I have the DCF513B, it isn't a torque king, but for that I have the 1000+ lb-ft DCF900B ugga-dugga.

Truth to be told in hindsight, Milwaukee is better across the board, but not by much, and who's gonna toss a whole deck of good tools for small improvements anyway, eh?

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by clg82

Take it to Katech? I kid.....sort of.

clg82 - I'm obviously missing something here, you've made several comments about me taking my car to Katech and I have no clue why! But, I'll say it now since a few here already know! My ZL1 will be going back to Katech, I hope as soon as July, if not then this fall. When the work is done, it will have 4 digit rwhp numbers! Can't wait !!!

Life is good, when you drive a Camaro !

[clg82]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

clg82 - I'm obviously missing something here, you've made several comments about me taking my car to Katech and I have no clue why! But, I'll say it now since a few here already know! My ZL1 will be going back to Katech, I hope as soon as July, if not then this fall. When the work is done, it will have 4 digit rwhp numbers! Can't wait !!!

Life is good, when you drive a Camaro !

It's nice to know how to fix thing when they break and not having to rely on someone else to fix it for you, is all I'm saying, it's part of what makes owning a car like these fun!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

clg82 - I'm obviously missing something here, you've made several comments about me taking my car to Katech and I have no clue why! But, I'll say it now since a few here already know! My ZL1 will be going back to Katech, I hope as soon as July, if not then this fall. When the work is done, it will have 4 digit rwhp numbers! Can't wait !!!

Life is good, when you drive a Camaro !

Bro... just when I think I am about to beat your numbers, you throw out this sh*t...

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by clg82

It's nice to know how to fix thing when they break and not having to rely on someone else to fix it for you, is all I'm saying, it's part of what makes owning a car like these fun!

Hey bro, I hear ya! I do work on my car, as you will see on my post when I bought my car new. I initially did quite a lot of work when it only had 99 miles on it! But, we all take the path we take. For me that path changed. It became a point of time vs money vs time with family vs time locked in my garage wrenching! I did a far share of my own work, and decided time was overloading on car stuff. So I chose to get the rest of the work done by a shop I trust to do it right and has the resources to stand behind the work if something goes wrong! I totally get what your saying, but I hope you also get what I'm saying!

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Bro... just when I think I am about to beat your numbers, you throw out this sh*t...

Hehe, what can I say!!!

Also, I promise I'll do everything I can to "NOT" put a 2650 on her! But, that depends on how many digits for one vs the other!!!

Also, not critical, but I misplaced my GMS Hood Bracket Kit! I need another !!! I'm going to look fir it again tonight. But, if I can't find it, I'll text you ! Thanks

[airtroop01]

Great thread...

I'll add a few notes on my end:
FI Interchiller helped a lot with the street/highway/canyon/40-roll MAT temps. I've got a stage 2 and after some initial installation headaches, the intercooler fluid temps will get to single digit numbers leaving MAT generally 15* less than ambient on a hot day while in competition mode and just about equal with ambient while the cabin is blowing cool air. Road course use... the only benefit here is helping the car to cool down in the pits. I've had to make sure I retained a large heat exchanger to last at the duration and load that a full course puts on these cars while pushing it for 20-30m straight. I've got a 2650 as well as a fender tank and a larger HE pushing only 15.5psi

I ended up divorcing the oil system from the factory coolant albeit different than the GMS kit and replacing the aux heat exchanger. Never had a problem on the street, but on the road course I was seeing temps ~290* and the ECU was not happy as it tried to save things. With the separate system, the result was about a 30* lower temp on the track. I added back in an oil thermostat at 205* and it initially was keeping things at temp... but lately I've noted that the system is having a hard time getting up to temp unless I'm on track, so something I've got to look at there. New mystery.

Engine coolant -- I got a Cold Case radiator and a 160* thermostat. On the street, I've never had an issue with temps. On the road course, I was blowing over and hitting above 260* which sucked. I've managed to find that drilling a few 1/8" holes in the thermostat was useful in controlling any flash temps that would otherwise kill the thermostat. On street right now my ECTs are right at 155*-165* on a 100* day. Maybe it creeps to 175* in traffic but drops with any motion. On the road course, 85* day (likely hotter on the track) WOT/Brake/Turn/WOT for 20m and I saw temps around 230*-ish. Success compared to the number of times the car complained about ECT temps and the ECU stepped in with pulling power. I've tried every thermostat out there Katech, MotoRad, Lingenfelter, stock, etc. The only thing to help is the old school hot rodder trick of drilling the holes (4 holes seems to be the sweet spot - leveraging the top weep hole as 1 and drilling 3 more). Takes a little bit longer to warm up but not too bad. I'd like to get a beefed up aux radiator to help the thermal shedding capability here.

New Banks gauges are awesome! The alert features are GOLD esp when you're attention is paying attention to the apex, other cars on the track, braking points.. to be able to get your attention. The data logging also GOLD so everything I've mentioned is not anecdotal - I've pulled the data, plotted it, watched the way ECTs and MATs go from linear to exponential growth curves when at the limit.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

As for the 160° thermostat compared to the factory one. Where is the benefit on lowering that? I've been confused on the factory vs 160°. I was told, not needed for street and drag strip, so it that more of a road course requirement?

Thanks!!!

[airtroop01]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

As for the 160° thermostat compared to the factory one. Where is the benefit on lowering that? I've been confused on the factory vs 160°. I was told, not needed for street and drag strip, so it that more of a road course requirement?

Thanks!!!

Benefit is more temperature range. If you’re starting at 160* and under load you’re hitting 230*-240* then that’s an 80* window (ie. that much longer you can stay under power before you have to let it out). If you’re at 218* and want to keep it at 230*-240* that’s only a 22* spread.

On the street, assuming all is healthy, you don’t need to worry about it. Most pulls that would land you in jail on the street are likely 3-5s.

Step on the gas pedal continuously for 10s at full boost and all the temps increase. If you’re not hitting thresholds, you’re golden. If you are, then you need to do something. On the road course, it’s brutal as things just get heat soaked.

[clj94104]

Originally Posted by AZIROC

This! I know I'm going to eventually end up buying this

The only thing holding me back is compatibility with my Velossa Tech Big Mouth.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I bought a Milwaukee 1/4” M12 ratchet this year for this task specifically and I have to say it’s life changing lol. I used to just manually ratchet all those little fasteners off and then wonder if I was developing carpal tunnel. The 1/4” Milwaukee ratchet made the job SO much faster.

WORD. Anything electric is so helpful, especially for tedious little stuff like this. It saves my wrists from a lot of unnecessary wear.

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Hell yeah, same here... except I have the much nicer looking, more durable, more ergonomic, faster, cooler.... DEWALT version

BOOOOOOO!!! j/k

Originally Posted by airtroop01

Great thread...

I'll add a few notes on my end:
FI Interchiller helped a lot with the street/highway/canyon/40-roll MAT temps. I've got a stage 2 and after some initial installation headaches, the intercooler fluid temps will get to single digit numbers leaving MAT generally 15* less than ambient on a hot day while in competition mode and just about equal with ambient while the cabin is blowing cool air. Road course use... the only benefit here is helping the car to cool down in the pits. I've had to make sure I retained a large heat exchanger to last at the duration and load that a full course puts on these cars while pushing it for 20-30m straight. I've got a 2650 as well as a fender tank and a larger HE pushing only 15.5psi

I ended up divorcing the oil system from the factory coolant albeit different than the GMS kit and replacing the aux heat exchanger. Never had a problem on the street, but on the road course I was seeing temps ~290* and the ECU was not happy as it tried to save things. With the separate system, the result was about a 30* lower temp on the track. I added back in an oil thermostat at 205* and it initially was keeping things at temp... but lately I've noted that the system is having a hard time getting up to temp unless I'm on track, so something I've got to look at there. New mystery.

Engine coolant -- I got a Cold Case radiator and a 160* thermostat. On the street, I've never had an issue with temps. On the road course, I was blowing over and hitting above 260* which sucked. I've managed to find that drilling a few 1/8" holes in the thermostat was useful in controlling any flash temps that would otherwise kill the thermostat. On street right now my ECTs are right at 155*-165* on a 100* day. Maybe it creeps to 175* in traffic but drops with any motion. On the road course, 85* day (likely hotter on the track) WOT/Brake/Turn/WOT for 20m and I saw temps around 230*-ish. Success compared to the number of times the car complained about ECT temps and the ECU stepped in with pulling power. I've tried every thermostat out there Katech, MotoRad, Lingenfelter, stock, etc. The only thing to help is the old school hot rodder trick of drilling the holes (4 holes seems to be the sweet spot - leveraging the top weep hole as 1 and drilling 3 more). Takes a little bit longer to warm up but not too bad. I'd like to get a beefed up aux radiator to help the thermal shedding capability here.

New Banks gauges are awesome! The alert features are GOLD esp when you're attention is paying attention to the apex, other cars on the track, braking points.. to be able to get your attention. The data logging also GOLD so everything I've mentioned is not anecdotal - I've pulled the data, plotted it, watched the way ECTs and MATs go from linear to exponential growth curves when at the limit.

Scott - airtroop01 is one of the guys I've mentioned in our conversations. Check out his threads, as there's some good information in them, too.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by radz28

... Scott - airtroop01 is one of the guys I've mentioned in our conversations. Check out his threads, as there's some good information in them, too.

Thanks and Thanks both of you guys... I added GMS (Gabe's) Hood Bracket just now !!! I'm sure it's going to be way better cooling for engine bay temps, especially at low cruising speeds/traffic. I'm amazed with how much HOT FLIPP'N air is now coming out of the opening the bracket made while my car idles! Holy Crap Batman ! I'm shocked!

[clg82]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Thanks and Thanks both of you guys... I added GMS (Gabe's) Hood Bracket just now !!! I'm sure it's going to be way better cooling for engine bay temps, especially at low cruising speeds/traffic. I'm amazed with how much HOT FLIPP'N air is now coming out of the opening the bracket made while my car idles! Holy Crap Batman ! I'm shocked!

Jesus I thought I was having a stroke, just had to double check this was a copy and paste from your build thread.... .....how much extra did it open that opening, I am probably going to pull the trigger on this bracket since the maggie lid scuffed up the old support with my port injection....just waiting on the DSX lid to arrive, but I hate the unsightly scratches now.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by clg82

Jesus I thought I was having a stroke, just had to double check this was a copy and paste from your build thread.... .....how much extra did it open that opening, I am probably going to pull the trigger on this bracket since the maggie lid scuffed up the old support with my port injection....just waiting on the DSX lid to arrive, but I hate the unsightly scratches now.

Haha... a little Copy & Paste for sure! But, valid on both for their own reasons!

I hear you on the scratches! I have some unsightly scratch's in my engine bay: 1) on the CAI frame support that holds the front fastener of the RotoFab BG, and 2) on the drivers side shock tower. UGH! Every time I open the hood, they just scream out, look here, scratches. I just need to fix them and move on!

My original polished aluminum DSX lid also got scratched once when I removed it. I tried buffing them out, it ended up looking ok. But, I could still see the scratches slightly. So, I replaced it with the red one I have now!

But, as far as how much more open the venting area is with the hood bracket installed, it's a lot! I'll measure it this evening (might have to brush up on my algebra!) But, from what I can tell, the factory insert and support frame off (I've removed and reinstalled mine twice in the past). It looked to me like the it's sealed all the way around excepts where the rain guard/deflector is at the front. I know when I'd wash my car, then only water in the engine bay was right at the opening of the rain guard. So, I'm not sure it's even considered an open area at all.

Now, that the bracket's installed, I see daylight all the way around the opening, everywhere until the back/ corner intersection where the carbon fiber insert is bolted in place. After I installed the hood bracket, I washed my car. I place a plastic sheet over the entire engine bay area and closed the hood and washed. After I was done, I opened the hood and wow water was covering the plastic sheet everywhere.

Again, the amount of heat that now comes out of the hood open where the insert is, is crazy! But, I'll measure later this evening. (<--- hint hint Gabe!)

[clg82]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Haha... a little Copy & Paste for sure! But, valid on both for their own reasons!

I hear you on the scratches! I have some unsightly scratch's in my engine bay: 1) on the CAI frame support that holds the front fastener of the RotoFab BG, and 2) on the drivers side shock tower. UGH! Every time I open the hood, they just scream out, look here, scratches. I just need to fix them and move on!

My original polished aluminum DSX lid also got scratched once when I removed it. I tried buffing them out, it ended up looking ok. But, I could still see the scratches slightly. So, I replaced it with the red one I have now!

But, as far as how much more open the venting area is with the hood bracket installed, it's a lot! I'll measure it this evening (might have to brush up on my algebra!) But, from what I can tell, the factory insert and support frame off (I've removed and reinstalled mine twice in the past). It looked to me like the it's sealed all the way around excepts where the rain guard/deflector is at the front. I know when I'd wash my car, then only water in the engine bay was right at the opening of the rain guard. So, I'm not sure it's even considered an open area at all.

Now, that the bracket's installed, I see daylight all the way around the opening, everywhere until the back/ corner intersection where the carbon fiber insert is bolted in place. After I installed the hood bracket, I washed my car. I place a plastic sheet over the entire engine bay area and closed the hood and washed. After I was done, I opened the hood and wow water was covering the plastic sheet everywhere.

Again, the amount of heat that now comes out of the hood open where the insert is, is crazy! But, I'll measure later this evening. (<--- hint hint Gabe!)

No need to measure unless you want too. I may just leave the black insert and bypass the mount since it does allow so much water into the engine pay when washing, I like my car clean so i do a lot of washing. Thanks for the reply.