[Deadpool Z]

Hey Everyone,


I found my line to my PVC pipe for my passenger side had came off. I noticed an issue after my car felt sluggish and then would grab power/boost when I got into the higher rpm band. So I re-connected it and now I have a P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance code and will go into reduced power mode and would randomly accelerate at times.


How often do these MAF sensors go bad? I do have the standard Rotofab, but I had this on for 5 years now with no issues.


I've cleaned the MAF sensor, no luck. Checked for leaks, and even did a smoke test and still no luck.


Thoughts?

[RobZL1]

It could very well be related to the PCV pipe being disconnected or leaking. All of that air in the PCV clean side loop is post-MAF and metered, so if it's leaking or disconnected it probably won't be happy about it and will pop the MAF code.

[Deadpool Z]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

It could very well be related to the PCV pipe being disconnected or leaking. All of that air in the PCV clean side loop is post-MAF and metered, so if it's leaking or disconnected it probably won't be happy about it and will pop the MAF code.

Hmm, I wonder if I were to disconnect the positive and negative cables if it would reset. I've cleared the code I don't know how many times now.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Had this exact problem once after putting new valve covers on mine. The hose that goes back to the firewall on the passengers side had came loose from the snap connector. I was getting these exact codes and my car was running like crap. I was advised by someone smarter than me that I probably had a vacuum leak somewhere. So, I did a smoke test and sure as anything found it (see photo). I cleared the codes but they remained on. I had to drive the car 3 or 4 times for about 10 to 15 minute each time and finally the codes cleared on it's own and the check engine light went off. I'm not sure if that's a permeant code or not. But, I was told something like if it's a permeant code, the car will need drive multiple times with out reading the code again before the check engine light will go out. Good luck!

[Deadpool Z]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Had this exact problem once after putting new valve covers on mine. The hose that goes back to the firewall on the passengers side had came loose from the snap connector. I was getting these exact codes and my car was running like crap. I was advised by someone smarter than me that I probably had a vacuum leak somewhere. So, I did a smoke test and sure as anything found it (see photo). I cleared the codes but they remained on. I had to drive the car 3 or 4 times for about 10 to 15 minute each time and finally the codes cleared on it's own and the check engine light went off. I'm not sure if that's a permeant code or not. But, I was told something like if it's a permeant code, the car will need drive multiple times with out reading the code again before the check engine light will go out. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply, the code did come up as permanent so I'll give that a try.


I am going to triple check all the connectors again. I am also going to check the lid seal just in case as well.

[Deadpool Z]

I removed my lid and found this. This was found towards the back of the lid.
To me this looks like a boost leak.

[RobZL1]

Unless I'm missing it, it looks like the o-ring was doing its job?

[Deadpool Z]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Unless I'm missing it, it looks like the o-ring was doing its job?

It sure seems like it. I have not had the code since then.

I forgot to mention that where this leak was the bolt was backed out and the other was loose. I have no idea how, I am wondering though that the plastic insert on the SC itself is bad???

[Deadpool Z]

Well I spoke too soon. LOL


I ordered and new MAF sensor that should be here tomorrow. We'll see how this works out.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

You know what's funny, back in the day when NASCAR introduced restrictor plates. The crew chief/mechs would loosen the bolts on the intake manifold to get MORE air in the engine! Hahaha, today if we had this, our dash would be lit up like a Christmas tree with warning lights, check engine light and probably limp mode only !!!

[Deadpool Z]

Well, I kept messing around with the car since it is nice having 4 days off consecutively. I've noticed at low RPM between 600 and 2k rpms while in park I noticed this whistle. I've heard of the Roto-Fab whistle in which I have but this wasn't it and never noticed it before.

So, I checked all my plastic lines and found no leaks, I decided to look into my bypass. When I commanded it (computer), it did not move while the car was running, so that was weird... I manually opened the bypass and the whistle went away. OK, now I am on to something, is this the reason why I get the p0101 code?

I checked and was getting vacuum in all the small lines for the bypass and electric bypass solenoid. The bypass itself was fine and actuating like it should when I did tested it manually. So just for giggles I blew very low pressure air in the electric bypass for both connections, I blew the air back and forth between the two ports. I kind of figured if no air was coming out of the either end then it should be good right? I did notice that the foam filter was kind of compressed, could the be the culprit as well and not letting the by-pass function correctly? Possibly as well? (Low boost/power? Check your bypass valve solenoid) https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586912

So, I slapped it all together kept the lines away from the foam filter on the by-pass solenoid. ran the car and tried actuating the by-pass again and it worked. Great! except that the vacuum line for the throttle body was in the way. It was put together as it should be, but just for my sanity I re-routed it.

So that being said the whistle was gone as well.

I drove it for an hour and gave it some hell and no Check Engine Light and P0101 code. Fingers crossed, by the way I did forgot to mention that the code would come on as soon as it hit 4k rpms.

Now, I am not saying that this will work for everyone, but I haven't seen to many topics on the board for the P0101 code either.


I'll update the post if it rears its head again.

[KingLT1]

Sounds like you solved it!