[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

The underhood diverter is flimsy sheetmetal that has been painted over. I would not worry about it providing any sort of structural rigidity/ integrity to the hood or the CF piece at all. Matter of fact, CF is very strong by nature, based on its build and having dealt with it so recently to do the bracket, I can tell you with full certainty that it is a very well made, very strong piece.

I'm not arguing, in any way, but does anyone have an option on if the OEM sheetmetal support we remove for this bracket have any heat protection for the CF Insert? I've wondered about that.

FWIW - I STILL love my bracket from GABE. It's awesome.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by radz28

I'm not arguing, in any way, but does anyone have an option on if the OEM sheetmetal support we remove for this bracket have any heat protection for the CF Insert? I've wondered about that.

FWIW - I STILL love my bracket from GABE. It's awesome.

Thats a good question. I asked that to a prominent CF manufacture when I was looking into a CF lid, and they said "no problem" most CF resin is good for 200F direct contact... which is why the lid being smacked with 300F compressed air would not last long, even with a Ti insert. Considering the air gap and between the 150F lid and the CF insert, leaves us no concern.

[bcasurvey1]

Originally Posted by LuckZL1

Hi bcasurvey1, I have had the bracket installed since my post and have already driven around 2,000 miles with it on at various speeds and from Los Angeles to Las Vegas. At higher speeds I notice a slight wobble in the Hood Insert which is most likely from the amount of new air being pushed over the insert now at speed, but as far as the hood is concerned as long as the hood was installed correctly you shouldn't be worried.

If you are worried about the holes you are using for installing the bracket, it should be hand tightened and not overdone, similar to how the rain shield is re-installed. You may run into issues using all the supplied nuts from GMS, so I reused all of the OEM nuts and One GMS nut for the center as it was easier to install than the OEM nut. (See picture below). P.S. I do not have the hood pins in yet.

Let me know if you have any other questions though, happy to help!

Thanks for the reply and disregard my PM I didnt see your post.
I may cut mine up and leave part of it on there, not sure yet, it depends what I have when I take it apart.
I dont have hood pins either and dont really want them if I can get away with it. (the latch is pretty solid).
What is the plastic looking piece under your hood? is that what mine will look like underneath?
Someone made a valid point about heat, maybe something to keep an eye on.
whoever put my hood on did a good job so i think it will be ok.

I am ordering a bracket today and trying it out and I will have my car on Daytona track for Track nights doing 155+mph on June 19th so it should be a good test, it either goes or blows lol....

[radz28]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Thats a good question. I asked that to a prominent CF manufacture when I was looking into a CF lid, and they said "no problem" most CF resin is good for 200F direct contact... which is why the lid being smacked with 300K compressed air would not last long, even with a Ti insert. Considering the air gap and between the 150F lid and the CF insert, leaves us no concern.

[LuckZL1]

Originally Posted by bcasurvey1

Thanks for the reply and disregard my PM I didnt see your post.
I may cut mine up and leave part of it on there, not sure yet, it depends what I have when I take it apart.
I dont have hood pins either and dont really want them if I can get away with it. (the latch is pretty solid).
What is the plastic looking piece under your hood? is that what mine will look like underneath?
Someone made a valid point about heat, maybe something to keep an eye on.
whoever put my hood on did a good job so i think it will be ok.

I am ordering a bracket today and trying it out and I will have my car on Daytona track for Track nights doing 155+mph on June 19th so it should be a good test, it either goes or blows lol....

You definitely don't need to cut up the water diverter if that is what you are talking about cutting up.

The latch is definitely very solid.

Which plastic piece are you referring to? The supports for the bracket?

As far as heat, I did a little bit of heat shielding (horribly) which you can see, and the hood has held up amazingly.

Oh yeah you definitely shouldn't have any issues but it will be the ultimate test! Lol

[Laguna Crazy]

looks nice but I did mine with a couple of strips of aluminum bent to shape for a couple bucks. mine is a strictly track car and don't drive in the rain.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Laguna Crazy

looks nice but I did mine with a couple of strips of aluminum bent to shape for a couple bucks. mine is a strictly track car and don't drive in the rain.

I know this is Gabe's thread, but the design of two, or four individual brackets has to be done using 7075-T6 not the 5052 grade sold at Home Depot which has half the strength.

I tested many versions before ending where I am... this design you are using can lead to a "tank slapper" with the scoop trying to rip itself from the aluminum tabs and press-in retainers at speeds exceeding 140mph. This is one part you do not want to save a few bucks on.

[JSH]

I installed this bracket back in the summer, and of course, I don't believe there's way to measure its impact on engine compartment heat. But, it can be a bit disconcerting when you're parked at the light, and the sun is positioned to highlight the oil vapors escaping from the CC through the vent.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by JSH

I installed this bracket back in the summer, and of course, I don't believe there's way to measure its impact on engine compartment heat. But, it can be a bit disconcerting when you're parked at the light, and the sun is positioned to highlight the oil vapors escaping from the CC through the vent.

As a proud member of the EPA, I think you made a typo... because I know your not implying that your catch can is venting to atmosphere... that would be very bad....

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Good news, it looks like Gabe's hood bracket will allow my 2650 to fit under the hood with the current TooHigh PSI LS Port plates I have with no clearance issues ! We did the billet cover too so that would have also helped as I recall. But regardless, it's good news!

[JSH]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

As a proud member of the EPA, I think you made a typo... because I know your not implying that your catch can is venting to atmosphere... that would be very bad....

Yes, MM Race and Wild CC systems vent to atmos. Somehow I think you knew that

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Good news, it looks like Gabe's hood bracket will allow my 2650 to fit under the hood with the current TooHigh PSI LS Port plates I have with no clearance issues ! We did the billet cover too so that would have also helped as I recall. But regardless, it's good news!

Hell yeah... secondary benefit for sure!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by JSH

Yes, MM Race and Wild CC systems vent to atmos. Somehow I think you knew that

Unacceptable...