[Junior2ss]

I’m planning on doing a magnuson 2650 build on my car but im not sure which direction to go engine wise. I was planning on doing a 416 Darton sleeved block but after getting quotes, I’m leaning towards going drop on pistons and rods as this would free up money to go towards building the trans and doing the xdi high pressure fuel system.
My question is, can the stock block handle 1100whp, Which is what I’m projecting to make? Has anyone made over 1100hp on just the drop in gpi stuff?

[jlaudio11]

Originally Posted by Junior2ss

I’m planning on doing a magnuson 2650 build on my car but im not sure which direction to go engine wise. I was planning on doing a 416 Darton sleeved block but after getting quotes, I’m leaning towards going drop on pistons and rods as this would free up money to go towards building the trans and doing the xdi high pressure fuel system.
My question is, can the stock block handle 1100whp, Which is what I’m projecting to make? Has anyone made over 1100hp on just the drop in gpi stuff?

I'm around there on texas speeds' drop in l8t setup, meaning I have an l8t crank, and drop in rods and pistons in the LT1 block. Texas speed told me the parts were rated at 900hp in an NA setup. The general consensus I've found is the h beam style rod and basic forged piston setups have been pushed into the 1500 range with no issue. At that those levels tune up is critical and you're likely to bend a rod if anything.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Junior2ss

I’m planning on doing a magnuson 2650 build on my car but im not sure which direction to go engine wise. I was planning on doing a 416 Darton sleeved block but after getting quotes, I’m leaning towards going drop on pistons and rods as this would free up money to go towards building the trans and doing the xdi high pressure fuel system.
My question is, can the stock block handle 1100whp, Which is what I’m projecting to make? Has anyone made over 1100hp on just the drop in gpi stuff?

Currently at 1059 WHP with stock LT1 block and stock LT1 crank using GPI drop in pistons & rods… Oh, and 5 years of 900+ WHP use on that setup.

Gotta get the fueling and tuning right though…

Edit: agree with jlaudio11

[Hammer-joe]

I've been running stock block and crank with callies rods and diamond pistons for 7000 street miles and 100's of 1/4 miles passes with almost 1k rwhp with no problems. I probably just jinks my self.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Hammer-joe

I've been running stock block and crank with callies rods and diamond pistons for 7000 street miles and 100's of 1/4 miles passes with almost 1k rwhp with no problems. I probably just jinks my self.

You’re right…we’re definitely tempting the fates with these posts…!

[Abilor33]

Did any of you machine your stock block, or you just swapped rods and pistons with drop-ins and banged away on it?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Abilor33

Did any of you machine your stock block, or you just swapped rods and pistons with drop-ins and banged away on it?

No machine work was needed.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by Abilor33

Did any of you machine your stock block, or you just swapped rods and pistons with drop-ins and banged away on it?

I opted to upgrade to do a full 360 thrust bearing and stud the mains, so the block was align honed and did a light hone on the cylinders. At 17k/mi the cylinders would have been fine for the drop-ins, but while the block was at the shop, give it the treatment.

Obviously during tear down, if anything looks excessively worn or damaged, it needs to go into the shop. Mileage counts, too. If everything looks good and miles are relatively low I'd feel good about a straight drop-in.

[Abilor33]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

I opted to upgrade to do a full 360 thrust bearing and stud the mains, so the block was align honed and did a light hone on the cylinders. At 17k/mi the cylinders would have been fine for the drop-ins, but while the block was at the shop, give it the treatment.

Obviously during tear down, if anything looks excessively worn or damaged, it needs to go into the shop. Mileage counts, too. If everything looks good and miles are relatively low I'd feel good about a straight drop-in.

Encouraging. I heard from Pray Performance that the tolerances on drop in R&Ps are spot on, but the block itself is a total crap shoot. I was going to have local machinist do exactly what you say, have a look, square it up, and may as well do camshaft and upgrade clutch while you're in there, possibly ported heads too.

I want to add a Whipple 3.0 down the road, and have heard that the innards are squirrely under boost. Been talking to some of the GPI boys about it all.