[Bangkok_ZL1]

What has everybody done with these plastic pipes. I'm looking for ideas because I'm worried the head/blower spacer kit I installed from FI Interchillers is going to "eventually" pull these plastic pipes into the belt. There looks to be a space for a brace (circled in thick red). Has anybody custom made anything that looks sweet? I've been thinking about doing some custom tubing work. Learn a new skill type of thing. Is this a good Idea, or is plastic just better? Also, there is that little foam filter that just disintegrated in my hands. What does everybody else use? Just grab a Sponge, or buy a new OEM one. Or better is there some smart looking mod that can be done to make this look better than the original grey Foam.

Once again thanks to all of you that have helped me so much.

[Smokin19]

My builder is a genius on eliminating unsightly tubing. Here is a pic of mine and I wish I could tell you how it did it but the results speak for themselves.

[Bangkok_ZL1]

Originally Posted by Smokin19

My builder is a genius on eliminating unsightly tubing. Here is a pic of mine and I wish I could tell you how it did it but the results speak for themselves.

That is ****ing Beautiful..... please somebody explain this

[nighttowl]

You could get some aluminum tubing, bend it then send out for anodize.
it would be slitghly costly, but would solve your problem.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1

What has everybody done with these plastic pipes. I'm looking for ideas because I'm worried the head/blower spacer kit I installed from FI Interchillers is going to "eventually" pull these plastic pipes into the belt. There looks to be a space for a brace (circled in thick red). Has anybody custom made anything that looks sweet? I've been thinking about doing some custom tubing work. Learn a new skill type of thing. Is this a good Idea, or is plastic just better? Also, there is that little foam filter that just disintegrated in my hands. What does everybody else use? Just grab a Sponge, or buy a new OEM one. Or better is there some smart looking mod that can be done to make this look better than the original grey Foam.

Once again thanks to all of you that have helped me so much.

Yes sir... I feel your pain... the OEM PCV system is very ugly...
My solution was to re-route using some PVC hose. One re-routes around the back of the blower and another lower in the front, which helps IMO.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Smokin19

My builder is a genius on eliminating unsightly tubing. Here is a pic of mine and I wish I could tell you how it did it but the results speak for themselves.

[randeez]

found the fittings that fit the vac pump and valve cover, was also able to tuck the wiring harness under the snout with pi plates installed. trying to find better solution for the water manifold

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by randeez

found the fittings that fit the vac pump and valve cover, was also able to tuck the wiring harness under the snout with pi plates installed. trying to find better solution for the water manifold

High Five on the re-routing and braided lines! You engine bay look great!
I cross over tube delete package coming soon... It not only looks better but gave me a 20% increase in HX coolant flow. (the crossover tube is very restrictive) PM me if you need help with this.

[Gunkk]

Randeez head up (just in case...) your car is low on coolant.

[RHD ZL1]

I went with a different approach, rather than hiding the nylon crank case breather hoses I replaced them with larger 5/8” hose as I fell the factory 8mm hoses are not large enough to deal with the crank case pressure especially once boost is increased. I removed the oil fill cap and replaced it temperately with an adaptor that fed into the dyno’s second map sensor and a stock LT4 generates 0.75psi crank case pressure at full noise. I literally just finished fitted a larger lower pulley and replaced the factory 8mm crank case lines with larger 5/8" hose and made up some “relief valves” incorporated within the 5/8 hose’s located at the left rear of the lid next to the dip stick and the right front near the blowers coolant fill port as can be seen in the vid. At any point that the crank case pressure exceeded what the OEM set up can deal with (as in positive crank case pressure) the relief valves vent the pressure where as if the set up can deal with the pressure the valves remain closed. You can see the valves working in this vid. The logged crank case pressure on the dyno remained at atmospheric pressure meaning nil positive crank case pressure. Surprisingly you see the valves open/close (simulating piston motion) after the power run is over, thinking about it, it makes sense as the throttle butterfly is closed straight after the power run (higher rpm) therefor the excess pressure generated at higher rpm’s due to fast piston motion can not be vacuumed into the intake tube as the throttle butterfly is closed and the valley plate tube going into the underside of the blower isn’t ample to vent the excess pressure. Once rpm’s drop the valves stop venting meaning at that point the OEM set up is able to deal with the amount of crank case pressure. At the start of the power run (2,000 rpm / wot) you can see the valves relieving the excess pressure and once rpm’s increase therefor the higher air speed in the intake tube helping vent the crank case pressure the valves close again.



https://youtube.com/shorts/JuX1MF-s4Lw

[RHD ZL1]

Vid from another angle.

https://youtube.com/shorts/MQA8daA1E0I?feature=share

[randeez]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Randeez head up (just in case...) your car is low on coolant.

Good looking out thanks!
I think i saw the correct way here somewhere and have since filled the top res, and filled the bottom to the mark.
Older Pic I have changed some hardware out , don't have enough posts to upload here yet to show a newer pic

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

All of those look nice and clean !

Smokin19: It looks like the stock EVAP box has caps plugging off the connector where the stock hoses normally connect, so I assume the stock EVAP box isn't in use?

SOCAL.M6.ZLE: I love the fact that you removed the stock blower coolant manifold and ran your hoses directly to the inlet and outlets! I might suggest this to Katech since my car is in their garage at the moment getting the FI Interchillers Stage 2 kit installed!

RHD ZL1: I liked the red cover, I have one installed as well. But, I'm still not sure which one looks best under my hood, my polished aluminum or the bright red one! Also, just a side note, pressure is only created by applying a larger force over an area (restricting flow). Thus, the hose venting the crack case doesn't have anything "applying" pressure over the open end. So, I'm not sure how much pressure is created there vs the volume of flow which is different. Not even sure there would be any static pressure to consider either. Kind of think go a garden hose flows water with very little if any pressure at the end of the hose. But, press your thumb over the end and yeah you will causing pressure. Also, I'm not sure how much pressure (PSI) is required to effectively "move" the crack case oil vapor/fumes from the crank case and push them through the system to the EVAP box and or a catch can? But none of that all probably matters, if your not seeing any issues then so be it. Regardless, it looks good!

[RHD ZL1]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Also, just a side note, pressure is only created by applying a larger force over an area (restricting flow). Thus, the hose venting the crack case doesn't have anything "applying" pressure over the open end. So, I'm not sure how much pressure is created there vs the volume of flow which is different. Not even sure there would be any static pressure to consider either. Kind of think go a garden hose flows water with very little if any pressure at the end of the hose. But, press your thumb over the end and yeah you will causing pressure. Also, I'm not sure how much pressure (PSI) is required to effectively "move" the crack case oil vapor/fumes from the crank case and push them through the system to the EVAP box and or a catch can? But none of that all probably matters, if your not seeing any issues then so be it.

If you remove the OEM plastic 8mm (5/16) lines from the factory rocker covers you will notice that the factory rocker covers use a 5/8 breather hose which then necks down to the 8mm (5/16) plastic tubes. Using your example about a garden hose and reducing its flow with your thumb, the 8mm (5/16) OEM tubes reduce the flow of the 5/8 breather tubes from the rocker covers just like restricting the flow of the garden hose with your thumb hence reducing flow and increasing pressure (back pressure) within the crank case. As mentioned on a 100% stock LT4 breather set up and measuring the crank case pressure at the oil fill cap (that’s the only place we could measure any pressure within the crank case), there was 0.75psi of crank case pressure at WOT.

That said, those of you who run a MM catch can, due to the clever design of the MM it has a rubber disc within the air filter atop of the can which lifts when excess pressure is built up as the pressure within the crank case will find the easiest way out, that being via the tube where the oil fill cap is that then feeds into the MM catch can and the design of the catch can vents that excess pressure.