[Need4Camaro]

Current mods:

• CAI
• Headers & High Flow Cats
• X-Pipe and Borla ATAK
• E85 Tune
• 1LE Wheel Setup
• 1LE Brake Setup

Current puts down right at 500 at the wheels on the dot.

I don't know if I want to stay NA and do heads / cam only or go F.I. and if I go F.I. if I should turbo (or twin turbo) or go super charger.

If I go heads and cam, can I go F.I. later or will the cam need to be changed again?

[vince3]

No intake manifold or TB?, which headers and size? Who did the tune?

[pbSS]

Adding to Vince's questions, it would also depend what your end goals are. Dyno queen or 60-130 monster? Dragstrip beast? You added the 1LE brakes, do you intend to do any road racing? Are you interested in suspension upgrades? You'll also want to consider a drag pack, otherwise all that power is not being put to use.

There's a ton of options depending what you want to do.

Also, since you are so close to "FBO", you might as well add the TB and Intake Manifold in there if you haven't already.

FI would be the best if you are just chasing max power and max dragstrip times. However, nothing quite beats the chop chop of an N/A monster.

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro

Current mods:

• CAI
• Headers & High Flow Cats
• X-Pipe and Borla ATAK
• E85 Tune
• 1LE Wheel Setup
• 1LE Brake Setup

Current puts down right at 500 at the wheels on the dot.

I don't know if I want to stay NA and do heads / cam only or go F.I. and if I go F.I. if I should turbo (or twin turbo) or go super charger.

If I go heads and cam, can I go F.I. later or will the cam need to be changed again?

I REALLY want to know how you do 500rwhp with those mods. Because ya, I barely do that with more mods.

And to answer you question yes you can still go boosted, but you'll need to upgrade internals and fuel system to handle it. If you plan to go boosted the entry boost cam is a Stage 2 boost cam, or higher. You can still boost with a Stage 1 cam like mine though. But in my case I'd have to upgrade the pistons and rods and fuel system to handle it. And depending on how far you boost, you may want to keep an eye on the rear axles and drive shaft especially if you use stickies.

[SSShark]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

I REALLY want to know how you do 500rwhp with those mods. Because ya, I barely do that with more mods.

+1

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by SSShark

+1

+2

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by vince3

No intake manifold or TB?, which headers and size? Who did the tune?

• Stock IM
• Stock TB
• Headers I forgot what brand I went with - I think they are American Racing but I can't remember for sure - Aikman Performance mostly decided that for me.
• Exhaust - Borla ATAK

It was tuned and dyno'd twice
- 1st by Aikman Performance in Cedar Park TX ~ 460 - 470 between runs
- 2nd and current by Peregrine Speed in Liberty Hill TX ~ 485 - 500 between runs

Luke @ Peregrine Speed used to be a GM Engineer from what I know of him, perhaps he knows something about these tunes that average tuners don't.. that or I have a freak car ..he did seem to do a good job though, and I definitely felt a noticeable difference.

Originally Posted by pbSS

Adding to Vince's questions, it would also depend what your end goals are. Dyno queen or 60-130 monster? Dragstrip beast? You added the 1LE brakes, do you intend to do any road racing? Are you interested in suspension upgrades? You'll also want to consider a drag pack, otherwise all that power is not being put to use.

There's a ton of options depending what you want to do.

Also, since you are so close to "FBO", you might as well add the TB and Intake Manifold in there if you haven't already.

FI would be the best if you are just chasing max power and max dragstrip times. However, nothing quite beats the chop chop of an N/A monster.

I am thinking I want a road course or track car. Occasional strip is fine, but I would quickly get bored of a car that can't turn.

[Judy1le]

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro

• Stock IM
• Stock TB
• Headers I forgot what brand I went with - I think they are American Racing but I can't remember for sure - Aikman Performance mostly decided that for me.
• Exhaust - Borla ATAK

It was tuned and dyno'd twice
- 1st by Aikman Performance in Cedar Park TX ~ 460 - 470 between runs
- 2nd and current by Peregrine Speed in Liberty Hill TX ~ 485 - 500 between runs

Luke @ Peregrine Speed used to be a GM Engineer from what I know of him, perhaps he knows something about these tunes that average tuners don't.. that or I have a freak car ..he did seem to do a good job though, and I definitely felt a noticeable difference.



I am thinking I want a road course or track car. Occasional strip is fine, but I would quickly get bored of a car that can't turn.

As a track guy here, for a track car, you DO NOT want the added heat and weight over the nose of the car that boost brings. Plus, trying to add boost on a car that originally fitted for boost is a pain, and yes the internals need to be upgraded on a LT1 for boost unless it’s low boost and a safe tune. I have a 427 in my SS 1LE and it’s fantastic both street and track. Also personally know guys who have gone from boost back to NA on their dedicated track cars. NA is just easier to manage, maintain and drive for a track car.

Chasing power is a slippery slope, telling you from personal experience ha. If you’re working on a track/road course car, finish going FBO and then do wheels and sticky tires and then get out on track. Power doesn’t make a fast track car, the driver does. I’ve had people who make waaayyyy less power and destroy me on track. Seat time is king.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Judy1le

As a track guy here, for a track car, you DO NOT want the added heat and weight over the nose of the car that boost brings. Plus, trying to add boost on a car that originally fitted for boost is a pain, and yes the internals need to be upgraded on a LT1 for boost unless it’s low boost and a safe tune. I have a 427 in my SS 1LE and it’s fantastic both street and track. Also personally know guys who have gone from boost back to NA on their dedicated track cars. NA is just easier to manage, maintain and drive for a track car.

Chasing power is a slippery slope, telling you from personal experience ha. If you’re working on a track/road course car, finish going FBO and then do wheels and sticky tires and then get out on track. Power doesn’t make a fast track car, the driver does. I’ve had people who make waaayyyy less power and destroy me on track. Seat time is king.

All true, but some people may not care less about overall lap times (aka cornering capabilities) than being f**ing fast in the straightaways, brake pad and tire wear be damned.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro

• Stock IM
• Stock TB
• Headers I forgot what brand I went with - I think they are American Racing but I can't remember for sure - Aikman Performance mostly decided that for me.
• Exhaust - Borla ATAK

It was tuned and dyno'd twice
- 1st by Aikman Performance in Cedar Park TX ~ 460 - 470 between runs
- 2nd and current by Peregrine Speed in Liberty Hill TX ~ 485 - 500 between runs

Luke @ Peregrine Speed used to be a GM Engineer from what I know of him, perhaps he knows something about these tunes that average tuners don't.. that or I have a freak car ..he did seem to do a good job though, and I definitely felt a noticeable difference.



I am thinking I want a road course or track car. Occasional strip is fine, but I would quickly get bored of a car that can't turn.

Torque & Airflow model, AFR, Injection timing, Spark, Torque Management. If you know how to calibrate these things then there isn't anything else that is going to give you Unicorn power.

When this topic comes up, I always consider Why did the Big 3 automakers put Superchargers on their flagship cars? Imo NA isn't more reliable when you put a good size cam in the engine that requires a lot more valve spring pressures to control the valves. It is just simple physics. The valvetrain will require frequent checks and spring replacement. Cam overlap also makes the car shake, less efficient down low, doesn't drive as nice low speed. Now there are mild head/cam builds you can do that will make reliable power and drive great, but it isn't going to make anywhere near the power a mild supercharged car will. I am not knocking NA either, I like big cube NA builds. You can go milder on the cam and still make excellent power with torque everywhere.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

I REALLY want to know how you do 500rwhp with those mods. Because ya, I barely do that with more mods.

Happy dyno is the only explanation. Even FBO e85 (which he’s not FBO), does not = 500 whp.

[KingLT1]

It's that 10% variance according to Mr. Jenetty lol.

[m6-lt1]

Op, since you said you want a roadcourse car I think you’re significantly better off using the mod money just for seat time. Not sure if you’ve roadcoursed your car yet but if you haven’t get out there and see how you do. I have a bone stock SS 1LE and have passed head cammed SS 1LE’s. Power is not what these cars need to improve, at least not until you become a faster driver.

I think after you take your car out on track you’re going to want wheels and tires, not more power. You will be one of the higher HP cars out there even if you were stock.

[s346k]

use & goals for the car?
budget?

after that is sorted, you can lay out a plan.

edit: if it were mine id upgrade the chassis, brakes and wheels/tires before adding more power.