[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by radz28

The last I noticed, it was only offered for up to 2019... I looked through TechLink and didn't notice/see anything for ZL1s (I noticed references to Auto-X ELSD updates, but I don't think that's what we're talking about here).

What I know is I HAVE noticed that the sway is a lot more pronounced in TOUR mode, under light-to-WOT throttle. In SPORT, it seems to be a LOT less pronounced. I'm still on the original factory tires, but it's behaved this way since right off the dealer lot. The car acts the same on the DRs, too.

I tried ZLE bushings and replaced all the suspension arms in the rear with rod-bearing ends (including the rear cradle braces), but it's still there. That was a lot of work and $$$, lol...

Maybe it has to do with the roads around here, too. Maybe he'd act better at the strip, because all of my observations have been on the street.

There is a drag race specific program available for the Diff module, through the dealer I have not figured out how to get it through my software YET LOL

Ted.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by radz28

The last I noticed, it was only offered for up to 2019... I looked through TechLink and didn't notice/see anything for ZL1s (I noticed references to Auto-X ELSD updates, but I don't think that's what we're talking about here).

What I know is I HAVE noticed that the sway is a lot more pronounced in TOUR mode, under light-to-WOT throttle. In SPORT, it seems to be a LOT less pronounced. I'm still on the original factory tires, but it's behaved this way since right off the dealer lot. The car acts the same on the DRs, too.

I tried ZLE bushings and replaced all the suspension arms in the rear with rod-bearing ends (including the rear cradle braces), but it's still there. That was a lot of work and $$$, lol...

Maybe it has to do with the roads around here, too. Maybe he'd act better at the strip, because all of my observations have been on the street.

DRs actually made mine worse so I scrapped the tire idea. Also 1st noticed it on the track so I don't think it's the roads either. Really sucks you're still fighting it after bushings and all.

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

There is a drag race specific program available for the Diff module, through the dealer I have not figured out how to get it through my software YET LOL

Ted.

Yeah, I think they wanted $400 for the eLSD flash.

[calypso50kid]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

There is a drag race specific program available for the Diff module, through the dealer I have not figured out how to get it through my software YET LOL

Ted.

what type of software/device are yall using to do this? Id rather call around to some local performance shops and have them do it if htye have it; then have my local dealer which ive had some pretty negative experiences with, in regards to previous vettes ive owned.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

There is a drag race specific program available for the Diff module, through the dealer I have not figured out how to get it through my software YET LOL

Ted.

So Ted... when you and I spoke on the phone months ago and you told me about the pass into the corner... lead to the demise of the first ZLE, after reading this thread it made me wonder.

I tried the AutoX update and went back to the previous program. In AutoX mode, the eLSD keeps the rear wheels locked together more on initial throttle lift... which becomes unsettling on a road-race course and causes far too swift of rotation inertia. This was NOT a fun track day!!

Alignments and tires are always the first issues the ZLE faces when being tracked near, to or beyond the limitations of most drivers. Most drivers will simply default to a long-press to turn off all the nannies to make themselves "feel faster" as if they are in more control. The truth really is, the car is capable of far greater accomplishments if you simply embrace the nature of what the car is doing and "let it Eat" the way it wants to. Sure it will go through more rear pads and it will feel like you are out of control and about to spin... but just trust it and wait for the results which allow you to put 1, 2, 3 car lengths on those driving the exact same car, sometimes even on Hoosiers and not understanding the amount of control you actually have.

Torque and Brake vectoring is REAL... it even says it in the Performance Supplement Manual. TRUSTING that is giving up everything you know about how to drive and relying on the computers. Kinda like how F1 drivers have to rely upon the aero... stay safe and slow, and there isn't enough downforce to make the turn, yet speed up and hold the line and she will be planted every time.

The front coil spring height adjustments are not for lowering the car as much as they are for track primary turn preloads. At Road Atlanta, most of the high speed critical turns are to the right... therefore my left front strut is at full height and the right front is down 8mm.

To fine tune your eLSD's vectoring... be sure all the suspension travel sensors are within spec. If you want to increase the vectoring, you can "lead-in" the corresponding side sensors to "give the suspension a tip-in" before the yaw sensor corrects for it. This can decrease time to apply asymmetrical torque to the rear tires and bias the braking affect sooner when flooring the throttle off the corners or like RA Turn-3 where launching the car off the curbing to rotate the car offers a significant advantage.

Also pay very close attention to the wheel speed sensors... they must be polished clean with zero debris. The front struts will sometimes expel grease or "VENT" and this can build up around the hubs and sensors.

[calypso50kid]

So little update, had a GM mdi2 in my possession. Updates the rear differential clutch module to the newest firmware. The notes stated it corrected issues with false dtc being triggered. Took the car out still makes a a wiggle and ended up darting left one time.

Now it was 32* out in South Carolina this afternoon and I have some 21 date code mps4s tires on the car so none of that is helping but at this point I’m guessing based on the pdr it’s just the traction control kicking on and off. Along with cold ground temps won’t really be able confirm if it’s better until spring.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by calypso50kid

So little update, had a GM mdi2 in my possession. Updates the rear differential clutch module to the newest firmware. The notes stated it corrected issues with false dtc being triggered. Took the car out still makes a a wiggle and ended up darting left one time.

Now it was 32* out in South Carolina this afternoon and I have some 21 date code mps4s tires on the car so none of that is helping but at this point I’m guessing based on the pdr it’s just the traction control kicking on and off. Along with cold ground temps won’t really be able confirm if it’s better until spring.

Could you confirm that it was only up '19 cars? No one seems to acknowledge this. That is the only update I've seen.

[JANNETTYRACING]

A couple of additional notes of information.

My car is a ZL1 1LE, that means it has Solid cradle bushings.

The standard ZL1 has Rubber cradle bushings.

At stock power levels the rubber bushings are acceptible but as you increase torque the cradle will move a lot more changing the alignment under acceleration.

We recommend solid cradle bushings for all modified Camaro SS and ZL-1 equipped with rubber.

If you have done an accurate proper alignment, done the E-Diff update, and solid Cradle bushings, and you are above stock power levels you can start looking at upgrading toe links and tweaking alignment specs.

Tires play a bigger role than most will know about, The OEM engineered tire for the car is the right tire IMO.

When you change brands or designs, i.e drag radial, the cars can get extremely upset under acceleration.

Also different sizes and brands front to back.

Just keep an open mind and don't leave any stones unturned.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

So Ted... when you and I spoke on the phone months ago and you told me about the pass into the corner... lead to the demise of the first ZLE, after reading this thread it made me wonder.

I tried the AutoX update and went back to the previous program. In AutoX mode, the eLSD keeps the rear wheels locked together more on initial throttle lift... which becomes unsettling on a road-race course and causes far too swift of rotation inertia. This was NOT a fun track day!!

Alignments and tires are always the first issues the ZLE faces when being tracked near, to or beyond the limitations of most drivers. Most drivers will simply default to a long-press to turn off all the nannies to make themselves "feel faster" as if they are in more control. The truth really is, the car is capable of far greater accomplishments if you simply embrace the nature of what the car is doing and "let it Eat" the way it wants to. Sure it will go through more rear pads and it will feel like you are out of control and about to spin... but just trust it and wait for the results which allow you to put 1, 2, 3 car lengths on those driving the exact same car, sometimes even on Hoosiers and not understanding the amount of control you actually have.

Torque and Brake vectoring is REAL... it even says it in the Performance Supplement Manual. TRUSTING that is giving up everything you know about how to drive and relying on the computers. Kinda like how F1 drivers have to rely upon the aero... stay safe and slow, and there isn't enough downforce to make the turn, yet speed up and hold the line and she will be planted every time.

The front coil spring height adjustments are not for lowering the car as much as they are for track primary turn preloads. At Road Atlanta, most of the high speed critical turns are to the right... therefore my left front strut is at full height and the right front is down 8mm.

To fine tune your eLSD's vectoring... be sure all the suspension travel sensors are within spec. If you want to increase the vectoring, you can "lead-in" the corresponding side sensors to "give the suspension a tip-in" before the yaw sensor corrects for it. This can decrease time to apply asymmetrical torque to the rear tires and bias the braking affect sooner when flooring the throttle off the corners or like RA Turn-3 where launching the car off the curbing to rotate the car offers a significant advantage.

Also pay very close attention to the wheel speed sensors... they must be polished clean with zero debris. The front struts will sometimes expel grease or "VENT" and this can build up around the hubs and sensors.

I always ran in PTM Race mode never disabled it.

Mind you this happed after 5 years of road racing the same combination I started with, with regular maintenance and alighnments.

I am convinced the Rear shocks were failing, I felt it on the first session.

So it was the perfect storm, Point by on the wrong side, raced me for the pass, then too much speed off line, then the POGO effect coming off the curbing due to failed shocks..

I attribute the rear shock accelerated wear to trailering the car to and from events.

I should have known better from my drag racing days I have seen many rear shock failures from trailering.

I never dawned on me until I arrived home, I sent the car home on a flatbed which lead me to rearranging my golf car position in the trailer, when I got home I found the seat for the golf cart had bounced out of the cart and on to the floor, then the lightbulb lit up.

When trailering any car, the back of the car should be tied down to prevent constant rear shock movement which accelerates wear.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by radz28

Could you confirm that it was only up '19 cars? No one seems to acknowledge this. That is the only update I've seen.

I can not confirm but since my car is an 18 and the update was out in march of 18 I would think that all vehicles built after march of 18 should already have it.

Ted.

[calypso50kid]

Originally Posted by radz28

Could you confirm that it was only up '19 cars? No one seems to acknowledge this. That is the only update I've seen.

I cant confirm either, but it my car is a 18 zle, delivery date to the dealer was march of 2019 according to the records which i thought was podd, so there was only a single recent update to what it already had in it, tbh if the notes are correct then it only had a update to stop false DTC's

[radz28]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I can not confirm but since my car is an 18 and the update was out in march of 18 I would think that all vehicles built after march of 18 should already have it.

Ted.

Thanks for responding, Ted.

That's what I've been assuming, and don't find contradictory information to, but we all know about assuming... Anyways - thanks again for sharing.

Originally Posted by calypso50kid

I cant confirm either, but it my car is a 18 zle, delivery date to the dealer was march of 2019 according to the records which i thought was podd, so there was only a single recent update to what it already had in it, tbh if the notes are correct then it only had a update to stop false DTC's

OK. Thanks for sharing. My car is a '20, built in July '19, so I feel like I would have the current update, assuming it would be any different.

What I know is the car can really go crazy under stange circumstances.

When driving under light load (dragging on the brakes to hold a speed, trying to build load), especially in TOUR, the car can almost DART around in the lane. It can seem to take a mind of its own and just start pushing/pulling (I can't really tell which - it's alarming though) all over to the point I need to get out of the throttle. I don't feel like I notice it as much in SPORT (which many have claimed is the issue, and I'm not arguing that), but I haven't tried in a while, so I'll have to remember to compare at the same time. I know it doesn't matter if it's on OEM tires or DRs. I've been wondering if it's just road crown, or crappy roads, but I've got solid ZLE bushings, and rod-end everything in the rear, so it's not any of that (and an alignment).

Thanks for all the sharing.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by radz28

Thanks for responding, Ted.

That's what I've been assuming, and don't find contradictory information to, but we all know about assuming... Anyways - thanks again for sharing.

Mine was a 2017 and in late 2018 had some extensive work where I'm sure it got updated because after that it was good.

[calypso50kid]

Originally Posted by radz28

Thanks for responding, Ted.

That's what I've been assuming, and don't find contradictory information to, but we all know about assuming... Anyways - thanks again for sharing.



OK. Thanks for sharing. My car is a '20, built in July '19, so I feel like I would have the current update, assuming it would be any different.

What I know is the car can really go crazy under stange circumstances.

When driving under light load (dragging on the brakes to hold a speed, trying to build load), especially in TOUR, the car can almost DART around in the lane. It can seem to take a mind of its own and just start pushing/pulling (I can't really tell which - it's alarming though) all over to the point I need to get out of the throttle. I don't feel like I notice it as much in SPORT (which many have claimed is the issue, and I'm not arguing that), but I haven't tried in a while, so I'll have to remember to compare at the same time. I know it doesn't matter if it's on OEM tires or DRs. I've been wondering if it's just road crown, or crappy roads, but I've got solid ZLE bushings, and rod-end everything in the rear, so it's not any of that (and an alignment).

Thanks for all the sharing.

https://youtu.be/6XMIlasKtjw?feature=shared



This is what I’ve been dealing with, can’t really even get into the power band of the engine before it starts darting left or right. No real
Crown on this section of road. Gonna continue to go other things. Working on getting some toe links and lockouts along with camber lockout stuff from SPL to see if locking all that down helps

[mlee]

Originally Posted by calypso50kid

https://youtu.be/6XMIlasKtjw?feature=shared



This is what I’ve been dealing with, can’t really even get into the power band of the engine before it starts darting left or right. No real
Crown on this section of road. Gonna continue to go other things. Working on getting some toe links and lockouts along with camber lockout stuff from SPL to see if locking all that down helps

Perfect video of this issue