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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2024
Location: CT
Posts: 7
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I used to be an active member on LS1Tech, then life happened and kids came into the picture, and any and all car hobbies went on full stop. I've been saving for my C8 Z06/Z07, but since that's a ways off, I decided to pick up a SS1LE and leave it stock. So naturally, 7 months later, I bought a Magnuson 2650 kit and LT4 fueling from Jannetty (Thanks Ted!).
This forum has been very helpful in making decisions. I'll use this thread to document the install and hopefully be a resource to other mildly certified YouTube mechanics like myself. While the Magnuson supplied instructions are good, there are gaps that I personally experienced that I tried to help with below - use at your own risk. Update: Car made 593whp/602wtq . Overall, install was very straightforward. I'd rate the difficulty as medium - using the HPFP alignment tool, a proper seal puller, crank pulley puller/installer and a trusty plastic hammer made the install relatively straight forward. Jannetty did an amazing job with the tune and the technical support!Mods include The Magnuson 2650 w/ 100MM upper pulley, LT4 injectors/HPFP, JMS Voltage Booster, Rotofab intake, 170 T-Stat, Corsa axle back and a Mishimoto catch can. Link to Jannetty's FB site for the dyno pull, install notes, etc. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/18nVzQ1RNQ/ Car is a 2018 SS1LE with 9K Miles. - My first time using these new GM clips (push up on the red clip, and use a small flathead to press in the black piece where the red clip secured to) - Fuel system removed, tool PN#: EN-51092 to ensure the cam is in the correct position (and cyl #1 in TDC) for LT4 HPFP install. Removed the fuel rail gently by using only my fingers and pulling lightly on each end, came out with very little effort. Used a tiny amount of Vaseline on the injector seals and they slid right into the rail. - Something not in the Magnuson instructions, The Magnuson supplied fuel line that connects to the output (Male connector) of the LT4 HPFP hits the OEM fuel lines and simply doesn't fit. JRE instructed me to gently use a plastic hammer (pictured below) and very slowly, gently tap tap tap away and move the connector more toward the driver's side. Another thing to do here, the fuel lines (where circled below) can potentially stick up and hit the bottom of the 2650 as referenced in Magnuson's instructions. I used the same hammer to gently tap the line downward to ensure the highest point of the line was below the top of the nearby bolt. I had no clearance issues after these steps. - Pulley removal/install was easy as well, used the ARP Crank Bolt PN 234-2503 (with a 1 1/16 Standard 12 point deep socket) to avoid the whole stretch/torque angle meter. Used the lubricant provided/instructed by ARP and torqued to 250 ft lbs. PN W89712 for the puller from eBay was perfect. The installer I got from a LS swap site (non-sponsor so not linked) - Use the LS3 seal, and as pictured below, install it dry, and ensure the correct orientation (LT1 seal is inverse from typical crank seals - the LS3 seal installs flat side facing out). I learned after the fact that some folks use brake clean to help with the ease of the crank seal install (because it dries to fast, it counts as a dry install still). I didn't do this, but I'll try it next opportunity. - The Intercooler pump supplied was incompatible with the suppled wiring harness (photo below). A quick call to JRE and Ted Jr. sorted me out quick with the right pump. The new pumped I received didn't have the connector off to the side, making the rubber mount install much easier. - On the subject of the Intercooler Pump, parts of 'Section 11: Intercooler Pump Plumbing' should be done before 'Section 10: LTR install'. I'll put some extra pictures below to help explain why, but install the pump bracket first, then with the pump out of the car, install the 3" X 20" 'L' shared hose onto the pump. Then ensure the lower LTR hose is slid through the radiator area, then install the pump on the bracket. This will make pump install much easier vs. wrestling with the hoses with the LTR brackets in the way. - The IAT sensor (front of the blower toward lower passenger side) arrived broken in the packaging. JRE also sent me a new one no questions asked. Not something that I would replace with the blower installed. - Remaining instructions from Magnuson were very straight forward, really don't need to add much more. - I had to manipulate their supplied intake elbow a bit to fit on my LT1 Rotofab air box, and then the Mishimoto catch-can into the side of the box, but these are obviously outside of The Magnuson kit. I will likely explore a custom bracket to fit inside the Rotofab box that'll provide a more attractive solution to the catch-can mount. - Because I upgraded the fuel system, Ted was able to install a smaller upper pulley to spin the blower faster, and got a whopping ~50WHP/WTQ gain. End results are above, video is great that they provided. Last edited by Dunes; 03-10-2025 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Updated progress |
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#2 |
![]() Drives: BLUE CAMARO ZL1 1LE M6 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ON THE DYNO WATERBURY CT.
Posts: 15,445
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Happy New Year and you are welcome.
Thank you for choosing Jannetty Racing to be part of your project. Ted.
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www.jannettyracing.com
Celebrating 39 years Performance parts, Installation, Fabrication, Dyno tuning, Remote custom tuning, and alignments. 203-753-7223 Waterbury CT. 06705 email tedj@jannettyracing.com |
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#3 |
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fo'shizZL1
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,839
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Well done thus far!
Most importantly, in the first pic it's nice to see you not granny shifting and instead using a Glencairn for your scotch like you should. ![]()
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2017 ZL1 M6 Black | Maggie 2650 // 103TB // Big Gulp // CSP LT's & Ultra Cats // BMR MM // BC Forged KL13
Mods being installed- oil pump, cam, ported heads, dual in-tank, Goliath and XDI, corn, etc., etc. |
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#4 |
![]() Drives: Camaro SS 1LE M6 Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 457
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Can you come do mine after? lol
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2018 Camaro SS 1LE M6
Stainless Works Headers & X pipe | Redline Axleback | E85 | Rotofab | Soler Ported TB | LT2 Manifold |
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#5 |
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Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: clark, mo
Posts: 8,882
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Nice build.
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#6 | |
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Drives: 2010 RS/SS Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 968
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Quote:
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#7 | |
![]() Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2024
Location: CT
Posts: 7
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Quote:
![]() Updates made. Driving over to JRE today to pick up the replacement intercooler pump and a wideband. Last edited by Dunes; 01-23-2025 at 08:25 AM. |
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#8 |
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fo'shizZL1
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,839
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It's so close now! You'll be done in no time.
__________________
2017 ZL1 M6 Black | Maggie 2650 // 103TB // Big Gulp // CSP LT's & Ultra Cats // BMR MM // BC Forged KL13
Mods being installed- oil pump, cam, ported heads, dual in-tank, Goliath and XDI, corn, etc., etc. |
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#9 |
![]() Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2024
Location: CT
Posts: 7
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All done. Hit the dyno this week at Jannetty - Ted did a great job with the tune.
593whp/602wtq. Video linked above. |
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#10 | |
![]() Drives: 2022 Camaro LT1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: new england
Posts: 639
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Quote:
Hi Ted, what would this setup gain on your dyno by going to a full exhaust setup? Headers, high flow catted X pipe and after market exhaust.
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2022 Camaro LT1 A10 - Drag Pack/Corsa double X pipe/AWE track axleback -11.849@118.67MPH/1.798 60'
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#11 |
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Petro-sexual
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I don't know if the LT1 fuel lines are any different from the ZL1 lines (could be, but the pump is in the same location), but my design was a little different. My kit's from early 2020, but whatever.
Good job on soldiering on and good numbers.
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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#12 | |
![]() Drives: 2018 SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2024
Location: CT
Posts: 7
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Quote:
I wrestled with getting the ZL1, because my dream car is a C8 Z06, and getting the ZL1 meant not affording the Z06 in the medium term. So I got the SS1LE to 'hold me over'. But I felt the 6th gen magic in this car and instead of making the trade to a ZL1 (my car is virtually showroom condition) I rolled the dice on the 2650. With the power it puts down, and the fact I did the work myself, it's a really hard value to beat. It pulls like a freight train, sounds incredible, and makes me smile every time I fire it up. Now I'm already looking at a CAM and some forged bottom end work.. This will likely live forever in my garage, hopefully in the space next to my future Z06.
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2018 SS1LE
Magnuson 2650 / 100MM Upper Pulley / LT4 Fueling 593WHP/602WTQ Dyno Pulls: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/18nVzQ1RNQ/ |
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#13 |
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Nice build. Thanks for posting.
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#14 | |
![]() Drives: 2022 Camaro LT1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: new england
Posts: 639
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That’s awesome! Glad to hear you’re liking it! Are you thinking about putting headers on it? Did you by any chance ask Ted what the game would be on your car from headers? I had plans on doing headers like I did for all my other cars, but I’m a little hesitant with this car.
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2022 Camaro LT1 A10 - Drag Pack/Corsa double X pipe/AWE track axleback -11.849@118.67MPH/1.798 60'
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