[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

There's still the toe rod bolt at the knuckle end, and it's tty and known to break. It's a multi-purpose bolt that loads the threaded part of the bolt in single shear. I replaced mine with ARP 675-1009 bolts, 98 ft-lbs torque spec.

Thanks. I'll replace that out when I install the SPL stuff -- looks like Summit Racing is the best bet, as that particular bolt set seems to be out of stock in most locations. Can you confirm the TTY bolt you're talking about via a picture for me, so I'm 100%?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by USMUCL

Thanks. I'll replace that out when I install the SPL stuff -- looks like Summit Racing is the best bet, as that particular bolt set seems to be out of stock in most locations. Can you confirm the TTY bolt you're talking about via a picture for me, so I'm 100%?

I replaced mine with a 10.9 grade bolt from Belmetric, M12x1.75x80

[USMUCL]

Thanks, guys. I see now the TTY bolt that needs changed out for the toe links.

However, on the upper camber bar (that I'm also changing), the innermost bolt is also reused according to SPL instructions; no replacement is included. Is that bolt also a TTY in reality that should be changed out?

EDIT: Yep, looks like those should be changed out also. However, I'm thinking the 5-pack of 675-1009 ARP bolts recommended above toe link will do the trick on the control arm also. Will be 10mm longer than stock (80mm vs 70mm), but I suspect okay as long as the non-threaded portion (50mm) is not too long. If anyone knows for sure, I'd welcome the input

[cdb95z28]

It is. I also have a non TTY bolt for this position.

Here is the OE bolt:
BOLT,REAR SUSPENSION UPPER CONTROL ARM OUTER
AG, AH, AJ, AK37-67 * (SINGLE USE)(M12X1.75X70, 66THD)(26.6 OD)

Part #11610908

[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It is. I also have a non TTY bolt for this position.

Here is the OE bolt:
BOLT,REAR SUSPENSION UPPER CONTROL ARM OUTER
AG, AH, AJ, AK37-67 * (SINGLE USE)(M12X1.75X70, 66THD)(26.6 OD)

Part #11610908

Thanks. Measuring for that innermost bolt on the upper control arm, the ARP 675-1009 bolt will be CLOSE, as the non-threaded portion of 50mm is almost too long (almost not allowing the nut to clamp down). But, I think it can be made to work.

[DaveC113]

On the ARP bolts, if you look for number 665 instead of 675 you get the same bolts with hex heads instead of 12-pt, in case one isn't in stock.

[USMUCL]

Thanks, all. I got the rear control arm and rear toe link on last night. Nothing is torqued down though, while I await the ARP bolts to replace the OEM bolts for which SPL provided no replacements. Going to start on the front camber plates in the meantime.

Will be doing -3.3 upfront and -2.4 in the rear. 0 toe up front and +.05 in the rear. Hopefully, the PZero slicks like it.

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by USMUCL

Thanks, all. I got the rear control arm and rear toe link on last night. Nothing is torqued down though, while I await the ARP bolts to replace the OEM bolts for which SPL provided no replacements. Going to start on the front camber plates in the meantime.

Will be doing -3.3 upfront and -2.4 in the rear. 0 toe up front and +.05 in the rear. Hopefully, the PZero slicks like it.

Sounds like a good plan! Where did you get the camber plates and any deals to be had? I think I just need to pull the trigger already.

[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

There's still the toe rod bolt at the knuckle end, and it's tty and known to break. It's a multi-purpose bolt that loads the threaded part of the bolt in single shear. I replaced mine with ARP 675-1009 bolts, 98 ft-lbs torque spec.

Hey Dave . . . I received the ARP 675-1009 bolts. The "lag" portion of the bolt (non-threaded) is 50mm . . . 48mm given the bolts come with washers.

They worked great in the inside position of the upper control arm. In that position, the non-threaded portion could be up to 52mm and still allow for a full torque-down.

However, at that outer position of the toe link, its super close. I have able to torque it down to 98 ft/lbs, but I wasn't confident that this wasn't reaching the end of the threads as much as tightening down against the knuckle. I ultimately decided to put an additional washer on either side of that rectangular, OEM washer, in order to effectively shorten the bolt by 4mm and ensure I wasn't reaching the end of the threads.

Just letting you know in case yours is not fully tightened because of the thread length.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by USMUCL

Hey Dave . . . I received the ARP 675-1009 bolts. The "lag" portion of the bolt (non-threaded) is 50mm . . . 48mm given the bolts come with washers.

They worked great in the inside position of the upper control arm. In that position, the non-threaded portion could be up to 52mm and still allow for a full torque-down.

However, at that outer position of the toe link, its super close. I have able to torque it down to 98 ft/lbs, but I wasn't confident that this wasn't reaching the end of the threads as much as tightening down against the knuckle. I ultimately decided to put an additional washer on either side of that rectangular, OEM washer, in order to effectively shorten the bolt by 4mm and ensure I wasn't reaching the end of the threads.

Just letting you know in case yours is not fully tightened because of the thread length.

Yeah, part of what I was looking for was a shorter threaded section as I believe the problem with the oem bolts is the combination of single shear connection to the knuckle with the threaded section of the bolt being subject to torque. The threaded section would be subject to stress risers simply due to the presence of the threads. The arp bolts have just the right thread length, they are stronger, and aren't loaded into plastic deformation by torque. I think that should make that connection stronger but replacing tty bolts with conventional bolts is not straightforward and YMMV. OTOH, OEM bolts are known to break. I hope the arp bolts will end up being much stronger but I could be wrong. Good news is they lasted all last year without breaking.

[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Yeah, part of what I was looking for was a shorter threaded section as I believe the problem with the oem bolts is the combination of single shear connection to the knuckle with the threaded section of the bolt being subject to torque. The threaded section would be subject to stress risers simply due to the presence of the threads. The arp bolts have just the right thread length, they are stronger, and aren't loaded into plastic deformation by torque. I think that should make that connection stronger but replacing tty bolts with conventional bolts is not straightforward and YMMV. OTOH, OEM bolts are known to break. I hope the arp bolts will end up being much stronger but I could be wrong. Good news is they lasted all last year without breaking.

Understood, and I appreciate the input. By my measurements, the lag section of these bolts is 48mm (50mm minus the provided washer). At that knuckle, with the SLP toe link end, you have something like 46-47mm. So, I was concerned when you torque to 98ft/lbs, you're actually tightening against the end of the threads as much as tightening the toe link against the knuckle. There might have been enough give for it to be a non-issue, but by adding a couple washers, it takes away the concern.

Of course, I was also concerned that 98ft/lbs, while okay for the bolt, was actually too much for the knuckle's threads. But, I did it anyway