[Val Walkinshaw]

Spirited curvy road run late summer. Front caliper temps didn't register on drilled and slotted 2 PC rotors with SS deflectors. Rear showed between 400 and 435. Pads are Hawk DTC 70 up front/ DTC 60 on rear with OEM solid rotor. Wasn't expecting a hotter temp in the rear. Far right Temp sticker in picture was placed directly on rear caliper face.(The ones to the left are unused)

Have temp paint to use on the rotors for next summer.

Should I be concerned?

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Val Walkinshaw

Front caliper temps didn't register on drilled and slotted 2 PC rotors with SS deflectors.
Rear showed between 400 and 435.
Wasn't expecting a hotter temp in the rear.

Was this measured on both left and right sides?
I would do a similar drive with an IR temp gun and see what readings you get on discs and calipers, both sides, front and rear.
if you really have a problem (like stuck caliper), it should show up.

[cdb95z28]

What mode were you running? Certain modes will squeeze the rear brakes when the car is pushed really hard. Novices on track who run with the nannies on find that the rear brakes get very hot.

[nasbagoat]

If you are running with stability control on the nannies are saving you.

[Val Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

What mode were you running? Certain modes will squeeze the rear brakes when the car is pushed really hard. Novices on track who run with the nannies on find that the rear brakes get very hot.

Track mode

Been there done that with nannies. Forgot to turn them off one day and I boiled the brakes. Still had DOT 3 back then as the car was relatively new and I was learning. Always a fun experience when the pedal goes to the floor.

[Val Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Was this measured on both left and right sides?
I would do a similar drive with an IR temp gun and see what readings you get on discs and calipers, both sides, front and rear.
if you really have a problem (like stuck caliper), it should show up.

Both stickers said the same.

[N Camarolina]

Val, are your rear rotors developing heat checks? And are they racking up heat checks faster than your front rotors?

I run the OEM pads and have just finished 4 yrs of a primarily tracked SS 1LE. While I've replaced front rotors once already at the end of season #2 and am expecting to have to replace them again soon (both times because of heat checks, not rotor thickness), the rear rotors have barely any thickness loss to them and have zero heat checks. Thus, I'm left to conclude that, as would be expected from a front engine car, the front pads/rotors are doing most of the braking work and the rears are secondary.

Your temp measurements suggest that the rears are working harder than the front. This leads me to think that either your brake pad choice, tire choice (no longer staggard?), or inadvertent use of nannies (you didn't clearly state which PTM mode you are using) is shifting more of the braking demands to the rear of the car.

[Og Neon]

It is the driver aides that are causing the rear to get hot combined with sloppy or overly aggressive driving for the mode which is causing it to activate. If you have a PDR system and play it back, it will flash the traction symbol everytime it is activating.

The lower the PTM system the hotter the rear will get. My early days, I was seeing similar temps in the lower modes. If you are just in track mode, it is pretty aggressive as you weren't in one of the PTM modes yet.

[N Camarolina]

Originally Posted by Og Neon

It is the driver aides that are causing the rear to get hot combined with sloppy or overly aggressive driving for the mode which is causing it to activate. If you have a PDR system and play it back, it will flash the traction symbol everytime it is activating.

The lower the PTM system the hotter the rear will get. My early days, I was seeing similar temps in the lower modes. If you are just in track mode, it is pretty aggressive as you weren't in one of the PTM modes yet.

All of this is correct, except the part about using the PDR playback. The system that activates rear brakes to control "excessive" yaw is not traction control, but ESC (stability control). ESC activation does not have symbology display on PDR video playback (only traction control activation does). You can look at PDR recordings to see instances of ESC activation, but you'll need to use Pi Toolbox software to see that level of data.

If you want to disable ESC, you'll either need to put PTM in Sport 2 or Race mode, or turn off all nannies (ESC and TCS) by holding down the traction control button for 5 seconds. Note however, if your driving habits are such that ESC has been activating a lot, you are likely overdriving the car and could well experience a spin should you disable ESC (so be prepared to catch the rear).

[ctrlz]

Recently I swapped my rear (original factory) semi-metallic pads for ceramic, and my inner pads (both sides) were quite locked in place.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...53&postcount=9

I think the hydraulic forces may have been enough to move pads inward, as the inner and outer pads I removed were evenly worn. But I wonder if the inner was pulling off completely.

DTC 60 are also semi-metallic, and the dust from these is both corrosive and "sticky," which is why I think I got the hard build-up. Maybe the dust on the outer pads gets washed away more easily.

Bottom line is I wonder if you have inner pads rubbing. Out of curiosity I used my harbor freight pocket IR temp tool this morning and got same temps for front and rear caliper bodies. But I don't track the car, and my commute is only 15 minutes.

[cdrptrks]

I saw 250°F or lower caliper temperatures with stock brake pads and tires at 2 different tracks when I had stickers on earlier this year. I was driving in either PTM Sport 2, PTM Race, or with everything off so I agree with others that stability control might explain your higher rear temps.

I have the SS track plastic front cooling deflectors and the smaller metal track shields behind the front rotors. There appears to be less cooling for the rears. There's a thread somewhere on here where someone mounted the plastic Blackwing rear cooling deflectors and cut away part of the metal shield behind the rear rotors so air from the ducts can reach the area but you have to drill mounting holes in the rear arms or buy the part #s from more recent model years that come pre-drilled and swap them in.

Also when I used EBC SR-11 track/endurance pads on track with 100 treadwear Goodyear Supercar 3R tires I saw 390°F max front caliper temp vs. 350°F max rear but it wasn't a long session so temps might have kept increasing if I drove for longer. Front rotors were around 1472°F max and a little lower with stock pads according to the temperature paint. I don't remember the rear rotor max temperature but it was lower than the front.