[BryanT2016]

Ok , so I am trying to get a build parts list together, tell me what u think.
L8T crank and drop in rod/piston set from Texas speed.
225 BTR cam with the 660 spring set, (polish up heads for now, not porting yet) but new guides , etc if needed. comp cams trunion kit. VVT limiter.
2 inch long tubes with 3 inch mids. (still debating high flow cats or catless)
BTR trinity mid legnth intake with 103 throtte body. and evap adapter.
DOD delete , also getting ICT billet valley cover and oil pressure sensor adapter.
Any other oddball parts im missing? I am looking at the LT4 flex plate and converter since the crank is an 8 bolt. Balancer is a ?...lt1 work or need lt8?
I know i will need wideband deciding on AEM 0300 or 0334.
Any help would be appreciated.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by BryanT2016

Ok , so I am trying to get a build parts list together, tell me what u think.
L8T crank and drop in rod/piston set from Texas speed.
225 BTR cam with the 660 spring set, (polish up heads for now, not porting yet) but new guides , etc if needed. comp cams trunion kit. VVT limiter.
2 inch long tubes with 3 inch mids. (still debating high flow cats or catless)
BTR trinity mid legnth intake with 103 throtte body. and evap adapter.
DOD delete , also getting ICT billet valley cover and oil pressure sensor adapter.
Any other oddball parts im missing? I am looking at the LT4 flex plate and converter since the crank is an 8 bolt. Balancer is a ?...lt1 work or need lt8?
I know i will need wideband deciding on AEM 0300 or 0334.
Any help would be appreciated.

Most builds are going to be a matter of opinion since you can get away with a lot by "pruning" a build to fit a budget. Otherwise the 3 main questions you need to answer first are, what is your power goal/application goal? What is your budget, or is it the sky is the limit? Building for Boost or Wild NA? I can't see the need to forge the engine for a NA unless you're taking it to the absolute moon, and even then IMO, I'd still keep the rotating assembly stock, swap the bearings, and do everything else and focus on taking weight off the engine. As long as you aren't spraying or boosting the engine, the stock bottom will take everything a 376 CID will throw at it NA.

Without knowing these goals, it's hard to formulate an opinion. Most builds are fairly versatile, but if you were for instance, building a drift car, I would say the majority of those parts aren't necessary. Or if your power goal was 700whp, there's plenty of pruning that could be done for an FI build. Also, the status of the engine that will be receiving the work? Is it a full functional no-issues running engine? Or has it spun a bearing already? Windowed the block? Makes noises/smells?

Go for the AEM 0334, you'll be able to datalog your wideband this way which makes for much better logs and your remote tuner will love you if you remote tune the car.

I can't really find a reason to run 2" primaries on headers unless you're going FI. 1 7/8" headers work well with any NA application. If budget isn't an issue, by all means. Gains NA with 1 7/8" vs 2" headers are likely negligible. More so if you're not porting the heads. Speaking of ported heads, why aren't you porting the heads if you're going with the BTR 225? You'll never see the potential of that cam or that lift if you're don't carve out some material.

There are a lot of oddball parts that go into a build. Again, need those goals and/or budget. Some are more important than others. Consider head bolts or studs. Main bolts or studs. I think a Katech billet oil pump is a must-have regardless of build or budget. C5R timing chain. Timing guide or tensioner? The list and options go deep.

Edit: Answered my own question on why the L8T crank. Didn't even know anyone made a drop in kit for the LT1 using it.

[KingLT1]

I would port heads, bump compression, and plan on shifting around 7200 rpm. If not, go with the 220 cam.

[6spdhyperblue]

I thought on a NA car 2” primaries were worth 8rwhp

[s346k]

pretty sure all gen v motors have 8 bolt cranks. i know for a fact the L8T, LT4, L86 & LT1 are.

aem 0334 all day. very easy to use.

i agree, the goal of the car and budget must be answered before starting something like this.

the header debate is as old as the internet. much like the throttle body debate. all i can say is you do not see little number parts on fast cars.

i haven't seen any info about the mid length runner btr manifold. i would still choose an msd or high ram depending on hood status.

[BryanT2016]

thanks for all the input. I will do some soul searching and decide how far i want to go.
One more question of probably many. Best place to put my wideband bung, headers allready have 2 and my offroad pipes have 2. Ive been reading that the offroad pipe bungs might be too far back. Suggestions?
Sorry for all the questions, my brother and I have built many 350's and 400's, but im new to the ls and lt world.

[BryanT2016]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Most builds are going to be a matter of opinion since you can get away with a lot by "pruning" a build to fit a budget. Otherwise the 3 main questions you need to answer first are, what is your power goal/application goal? What is your budget, or is it the sky is the limit? Building for Boost or Wild NA? I can't see the need to forge the engine for a NA unless you're taking it to the absolute moon, and even then IMO, I'd still keep the rotating assembly stock, swap the bearings, and do everything else and focus on taking weight off the engine. As long as you aren't spraying or boosting the engine, the stock bottom will take everything a 376 CID will throw at it NA.

Without knowing these goals, it's hard to formulate an opinion. Most builds are fairly versatile, but if you were for instance, building a drift car, I would say the majority of those parts aren't necessary. Or if your power goal was 700whp, there's plenty of pruning that could be done for an FI build. Also, the status of the engine that will be receiving the work? Is it a full functional no-issues running engine? Or has it spun a bearing already? Windowed the block? Makes noises/smells?

Go for the AEM 0334, you'll be able to datalog your wideband this way which makes for much better logs and your remote tuner will love you if you remote tune the car.

I can't really find a reason to run 2" primaries on headers unless you're going FI. 1 7/8" headers work well with any NA application. If budget isn't an issue, by all means. Gains NA with 1 7/8" vs 2" headers are likely negligible. More so if you're not porting the heads. Speaking of ported heads, why aren't you porting the heads if you're going with the BTR 225? You'll never see the potential of that cam or that lift if you're don't carve out some material.

There are a lot of oddball parts that go into a build. Again, need those goals and/or budget. Some are more important than others. Consider head bolts or studs. Main bolts or studs. I think a Katech billet oil pump is a must-have regardless of build or budget. C5R timing chain. Timing guide or tensioner? The list and options go deep.

Edit: Answered my own question on why the L8T crank. Didn't even know anyone made a drop in kit for the LT1 using it.

Ok to answer some... goal,,, to have a fun toy 50/50 cruise /drag/ look at mustangs in rear view.. while i work on my 69 camaro restomod.
Im staying NA,
92000 miles on her, if i need to spend to rebuild bottom end might as well put a little more cubes in there. If all is good then ill keep bottom end.
I didnt want to port the heads mostly because of the problems ive heard of them porting into the water jackets, and 1000 for porting for a toy doesnt seem worth it. Im staying pump gas 93 ..
Purchased a 0334 wideband
purchased 1 7/8 headers with offroad pipes(my brother that has built alot of small blocks stated unless boosting or turning over 8000 the 1 7/8 will scavange better.
Went to GPI last week and talked with kevin there,(only 2 hours away) and I purchased a ss3 cam springs etc, 3600 to 3800 circle d stall, vvt delete cover and gear, chain, etc. Showed him the intake and he said it should do well with the setup and rpm im looking at.
Going to run a ported 95 solar.
Texas speed valley cover also purchased.
I will be able to take it there to dyno tune when im done.
reason for doing the work, ticking lifter of death.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by BryanT2016

Ok to answer some... goal,,, to have a fun toy 50/50 cruise /drag/ look at mustangs in rear view.. while i work on my 69 camaro restomod.
Im staying NA,
92000 miles on her, if i need to spend to rebuild bottom end might as well put a little more cubes in there. If all is good then ill keep bottom end.
I didnt want to port the heads mostly because of the problems ive heard of them porting into the water jackets, and 1000 for porting for a toy doesnt seem worth it. Im staying pump gas 93 ..
Purchased a 0334 wideband
purchased 1 7/8 headers with offroad pipes(my brother that has built alot of small blocks stated unless boosting or turning over 8000 the 1 7/8 will scavange better.
Went to GPI last week and talked with kevin there,(only 2 hours away) and I purchased a ss3 cam springs etc, 3600 to 3800 circle d stall, vvt delete cover and gear, chain, etc. Showed him the intake and he said it should do well with the setup and rpm im looking at.
Going to run a ported 95 solar.
Texas speed valley cover also purchased.
I will be able to take it there to dyno tune when im done.
reason for doing the work, ticking lifter of death.

You're in good hands with GPI. You don't have to hog the crap out of the stock heads to get good performance out of them. But the heads will be a restriction with that intake manifold and cam. The fact that you're going to bump some extra cubes in there is all the more reason to open up the heads a bit. You can certainly run non ported heads, but you may leave quite a bit of power on the table doing so. Other than that, I look forward to seeing the L8T combo in action.