[teddyca]

As mentioned my last sixth gen was MRC and I lowered it with same kit. It was fine. My lowered C7 and C8 Corvettes fine. I have lowered a good 20 cars of mine. This is the ONLY one that's been shit. O ly difference is this car doesn't have MRC. For what I've spent on all these parts I could of had bad ass coilovers. LOL

[winged1]

Just an update. I went with zzperformance coilovers. Haven’t installed them yet but soon will. I clocked the bushings and it maybe helped a little but the ride is still too stiff. I’ll update once the coilovers are dialed in. Thanks

[teddyca]

I am in a similar boat. While I was bitching about my ride quality, I wasnt actively looking. I had settled on "Silvers" as I have read multiple posts of these being best bang for the buck. Well as nature would have it, I came over here bored one day and made the mistake of looking in the FS Suspension section. Low and behold a member who had sold his car had EXACTLY what I wanted brand new. I gave him a wild ass offer hoping he would say no and I could move on. Well sitting next to a set of some headers for my C8 are brand new Silvers coilovers. I have a couple winter projects.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

BMR arms out back.....poly or sphericals?

Originally Posted by teddyca

Sorry brother I dont even know what that means lol. I assume "spherical" refers to the adjustable stuff with the heim joints, which is what I have. I basically have the following from BMR, I be missing a couple parts but theres a lot of red. adjustable control arms, trailing arms, toe rods, sway bars. I had the non adjustable stuff and sold it all here hoping the adjustable would help and well nope. Shit I even bought all the stuff I replaced back from another seller because I tossed my stuff sure I would never go back to stock. LOL

I missed this post....

Yeah, sphericals are Heim joints/rose joints/rod ends..... They offer zero bind, which poly does not. Poly bushings have no place on a Gen6 if you care about great handling and precision. They seem to be ok with the drag race guys, but the poly can bind when the suspension moves, the result is an increase in wheel rate. IOW, the suspension stiffens up. Realistically, the BMR arms are not needed vs many of the OE arms that already have spherical joints. The heavier, boxed or tube arms are over kill. While the OE arms may seem to be flimsy, they are engineered to be strong in their intended loads. BMR and other's marketing departments sure do convince too many there is a weakness here.

The only adjustable arm that is worth replacing is the rear toe rod and even the SPL arm is far superior to the comparable BMR arm. And it's not because the rear OE toe rod is bad, it is worth replacing because a replacement usually eliminates the OE one time use eccentric bolt. I still am running the OE toe rod, but with a custom non torque to yield eccentric bolt.

The other relevant arm is the rear lower control arm which is moved for camber. There is no need to replace this arm and AFAIK only one company has a replacement ($). Some replace the rear upper control arm to gain more negative camber, but that is if you really need tons of negative camber for serious road course use. Most guys do not need that additional negative camber. Replacing all the other arms for "adjustability" is just a waste of resources and opens up the possibility of deviating from a solid OE geometry baseline. The Gen6 is that good. I personally only have bigger anti roll bars with SPL end links on my 'SS 1LE. And my car is fast at my track.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by winged1

Just an update. I went with zzperformance coilovers. Haven’t installed them yet but soon will. I clocked the bushings and it maybe helped a little but the ride is still too stiff. I’ll update once the coilovers are dialed in. Thanks

While we can time all of the suspension arm bushings, the front and rear anti roll bars have mounting bushings that grip the bars super tight. Some variants have the front mount actually glued to the bar, specifically the FE4 (SS 1LE, ZL1) and FEA (ZLE) bars. I am not sure about the mounts on all the other Gen6 variants.

So, if you cannot time those bar mounts, the bars will continue to have bind. adding unintended stiffness.

The Devil's in the details.....

[Chevelle vs Camaro]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

You need to time the rubber suspension bushings.

Every rubber bushing is now in a state of twist or bind at the new static ride height. This includes the anti roll bar mounts. To relieve the stress each rubber bushed suspension joint needs to be loosened, at ride height, then retightened. This will reset each bushing to a new zero bind state. Note that on the Gen6 there are some joints that are a spherical ball type joint. They do not need reset. They are self resetting.

Coming from the Gen5 community and now as a Gen6 SS 1LE owner, I see less conversations about timing the bushings among the Gen6 groups. I'm willing to bet most guys doing springs haven't done it. GM calls out timing the bushings in the service manual as tightening the suspension joints at ride height. So this is something that is important. Yeah, it adds time and cost to just doing drop springs but do it once, do it right.

Most suspension fasteners are torque to yield (TTY) one time use per GM. Each bolt should be replaced every time they have been fully tightened.

Is your car MagRide equipped? If so, then the ride height sensors also need rezero'd. There are relatively cheap scan tools on amazon that can do this.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153188

I’m not getting doing it at “ride height”. How would you lift car to get across to bushings?


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[Chevelle vs Camaro]

Originally Posted by winged1

As the title mentions. I installed eibach springs and now the car is stupid stiff and bouncy. It’s to the point that it’s fairly dangerous going over dips or bumps at speed. I had it aligned at the dealer but didn’t help. Should I just go back to stock or are there better options out there? Any feed back is appreciated. Thanks

How many miles on car? Might need new shocks. If you have the Eibachs and you like the height and don’t need to adjust no need for coil overs.

Had them in two cars and never adjusted.

I have a2018 with 50k and I believe my shocks are toast but it has also been lowered for awhile.


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[Ventmaster]

[QUOTE=Chevelle vs Camaro;11451475]I’m not getting doing it at “ride height”. How would you lift car to get across to bushings?

Ramps will get you high enuff to crawl under there while the car is bearing weight.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Chevelle vs Camaro

I’m not getting doing it at “ride height”. How would you lift car to get across to bushings?


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Originally Posted by Chevelle vs Camaro

How many miles on car? Might need new shocks. If you have the Eibachs and you like the height and don’t need to adjust no need for coil overs.

Had them in two cars and never adjusted.

I have a2018 with 50k and I believe my shocks are toast but it has also been lowered for awhile.


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Either drive it on a platform like an alignment rack and reset the bushings (best way) or jack it up and place the car up on some cribbing underneath the tires. But even this second method is not the best because when the suspension compresses down to ride height there is side slippage of the tire. If you don't have slip plates under the tires, the suspension will still be in a state of bind.

Worn out shocks usually don't fail to a stiff damping, they usually go soft to the point of under-damping.

The stiffness the OP stated is from bound rubber bushings. His bouncy description is because the car is now under-damped......added wheel rate from the bound bushings is uncontrolled. Shocks are tuned for the wheel rates. When you start changing springs, anti roll bars, and the smaller inputs of bushings, the shocks are no longer tuned for the intended wheel rate.

[DeuceCam]

When changing the ride height or changing sway bars, it's best to leave sway bars disconnected from the end links until suspension is fully loaded at ride height.