[exxit]

Figured this belonged here instead of General....


The car is slow to start at times. Read in a different thread that they found negative wires to be the root cause.

Any suggestions what the best way to identify these wires would be? I'm avoiding going to the dealer because the problem is tough to recreate on demand and the car is procharged now :P



To add a footnote, it isn't the standard "long crank" that DI engines exhibit. It's a more Chug (PAUSE) chug (PAUSE), chugchugchug and good to go. Like a car with a low battery would do. But battery never shows issues otherwise. Haven't checked voltage outside of display on dash.

[Subperfect]

Originally Posted by exxit

Figured this belonged here instead of General....


The car is slow to start at times. Read in a different thread that they found negative wires to be the root cause.

Any suggestions what the best way to identify these wires would be? I'm avoiding going to the dealer because the problem is tough to recreate on demand and the car is procharged now :P



To add a footnote, it isn't the standard "long crank" that DI engines exhibit. It's a more Chug (PAUSE) chug (PAUSE), chugchugchug and good to go. Like a car with a low battery would do. But battery never shows issues otherwise. Haven't checked voltage outside of display on dash.

doubt the procharger has anything to do with the problem took mine in Monday with the same problem having a vortech on it.

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491006

[SliverATX]

Sometimes I have the same issue when restarting after 10-15 laps at the track. Is the charging system under driven at WOT?

[crazydmc]

Originally Posted by SliverATX

Sometimes I have the same issue when restarting after 10-15 laps at the track. Is the charging system under driven at WOT?

i'm going to check my cables.

the heat makes it harder to start.... I think the distance between the battery and starter is likely an issue.... every cable connection must be perfect to get enough amperage to the starter.

[camaro5]

If your starter easily cranks a cold engine, but “drags” or cranks very slowly when hot, there may be a “heat soak” problem

Assuming that the diagnosis results are within acceptable ranges and the starter cranks fine when cold, it is quite possibly a “heat soak” condition.

What exactly is starter “Heat Soak”? Without getting into the physics of thermal conduction or Newton’s law of convective cooling,

it is simply a matter of the starter absorbing and retaining heat from under-hood sources such as the exhaust manifold.

This absorbed heat adds resistance to the electrical conductors inside the starter. The additional resistance results in the starter requiring more amperage than it normally does when cool.

Once under-hood heat warms the battery, cables, and starter, a “tipping point” is reached concerning the overall amount of resistance a starter can accept
(and still function properly)

http://www.knowyourparts.com/technic...hot-heat-soak/ More here

[exxit]

Ugh the saga continues! lol

I'll take a peek at the wires themselves, but they look solid on the terminals.
Could possibly be heatsoak, in which case i'll look around the starter to find any obvious sources.
I'm wondering if anyone who found the grounding issue remembers which wires they replaced.

[Cdflyer]

Any luck diagnosing this yet? Mine has been doing the same as of late.

[franksredhot]

Same problem here but last week I had to hit the start button a couple of times before it started. It is worse than last summer so I do think at some point it will leave me stranded when the weather gets hot. My dealer never seems to find my problems. Just because they don't notice the problem doesn't mean it isn't happening. I can't stand my Chevy dealer. I'm going to try a different one.

[SGDM]

Mine does the same thing when I am at the drag strip. I have checked all the connections and wires...

[exxit]

Another member mentioned that this issue was due to "two ground wires" with no more info than that really.

I've definitely narrowed it down to it being an issue ONLY after the car has been warmed up and driven. Every consecutive start while the car is hot makes it a bit tougher to start, and the symptoms are completely gone if the car has had time to cool off. Us west coasters and midwesters are going to get hit sort of hard in the coming months.

Mine has never NOT started as of yet, and for now I'll let it be. Next oil change I'll be doing the gear oil (for shits and giggles and preventative maint.) I'll take a look at the starter location and see what, if anything, i can do about the heatsoak

[exxit]

Heat related issue number 2, just bumping this up to see if anyone found a work around or fix they applied and are happy with.

I noticed my buddies ZL1 cranks with a whole different noise (i know i know, different motor essentially) but would an LT4 starter work? Am i reach for stupid straws at this point? lol

[franksredhot]

I was in the dealer again and they found nothing. Getting warm in NYC, yesterday I barely started after driving around for a while. I think at some point I'm going to be left stranded.

[oldman]

My car for years has had a slow crank when hot problem.
1) with built engine and long tubes I did cook the starter and had to partially wrap starter and header.
2) for about 5 to 6 years it would crank slow only when hot, keep in mind I don't drive it much and it has a battery tender.
3) Voltage gauge was never really active but it was charging (note car has a complicated MPG charging cycle that there is a white paper on.
4) Even expensive load / charging testers pass the car (barely)
5) did the engine ground cable (help slightly)
6) Changed alternator, starter (again).
Not really an issue but it was starting to bug me.
7) tried adding a ground cable from battery to frame. Car instantly went into a no charge mode. Why. The stock wire is longer than needed because it is calibrated for the current clap.
8) Took cable and clamp out of my CTS, toss the second ground. Car has a good strong charge, slow crank after driving while hot is completely gone, it cranks faster now after driving while hot.

Take aways, the pennies on the dollar EPA current clamp charging ides is STUPID and it does not work on high compression V8 cars. The guy that added a ground cable from battery to frame solving his issue is just plain WRONG, which I knew but wanted to try anyway. You can use a generic current clamp for $30 from a CTS or 5th gen Camaro, or you can EBay a factory one for slightly under $100 and comes with the too long for a reason cable.

[grampa_ss]

Like this one: or are you referring to the positive cable/clamp?

2011-2015 CADILLAC CTS NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TERMINAL WIRE 20931013 BLACK OEM