[2SS Capt]

Which exhaust gives you that old school, big V-8 sound? Deep idle but yet deep, throaty acceleration...? Looking at Borla Type S and Borla Atak.... Comments??? Probably doing axel back but open to suggestions, would like to do it myself and not have to do any cutting or welding... Want that old school deep rumble... These cars have 376 ci engines, they should be able to do that...

[WhiteMale]

If pricepoint is not a thing for you, Borla. My AWE (touring) system on my LT1 got lot's of compliments. Corsa is popular but sounds to raw and aggressive for my taste. I like the MBRP axle back I have on my ZL1, basically a muffler delete and does not drone.

[MT-SS1LE]

Borla ATAK. Been very happy with mine. Sounds like a V8 muscle car should. It's really only louder than the stock NPP under full throttle. Just cruising it sounds about as loud as oem, and zero drone.

[Gen6cyl]

My lgx sounds great to me. Lt1 guys rolling in lgx section.lol

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by Gen6cyl

My lgx sounds great to me. Lt1 guys rolling in lgx section.lol

Oppsss... Didn't even notice that...

[kropscamaro16]

check out afe power catback its awesome and works with npp ive had mine almost 9 years no issues

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Which exhaust gives you that old school, big V-8 sound? Deep idle but yet deep, throaty acceleration...? Looking at Borla Type S and Borla Atak.... Comments??? Probably doing axel back but open to suggestions, would like to do it myself and not have to do any cutting or welding... Want that old school deep rumble... These cars have 376 ci engines, they should be able to do that...

I'm a fan of Magnaflow & Stainless Works product. I've used Magnaflow on just about every sports car I've owned, they always had a muffler that was right for the combo. I went Stainless Works Redline on this build and I love the sound, but I really wish I had gone Legend series as it is the deeper toned of their product offerings. It'll be better once I get the HOHF cats on, but right now the car is punishingly loud with the valves open. Closed it's nice and tame.

Here's mine valves open, granted not quite stock.

https://youtu.be/FAa0Y4JJcTc?si=FEpbGsfhwh61WEz9

[2SS Capt]

I guess I should have said I'm pretty much looking for an easy axle back... But want something deep at idle and thought acceleration more like an old school muscle car...

(I asked the mods to move this to the V-8 section a couple days ago... crickets...)

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

I guess I should have said I'm pretty much looking for an easy axle back... But want something deep at idle and thought acceleration more like an old school muscle car...

(I asked the mods to move this to the V-8 section a couple days ago... crickets...)

It was just a suggestion for tone, not saying you should go all-out. Just changing the muffler is only going to adjust the tone of the exhaust. If you check out Stainless Works, they have a well put together video sample of the Legend and Redline series on an otherwise OE Camaro test car. I'd press you to replay the stock vs axleback areas of the video repeatedly so you can really compare the difference between the OE muffler vs Aftermarket, as the distinction between the OEM muffler in Aftermarket Mufflers by themselves are just adjustments in tone and usually very minor. If you remove the secondary cats, the entire exhaust note and volume is noticeably different. Arguably, your best bang for your bucks is going to be keeping the OE muffler and removing the secondary cats. Everything from volume, tone, even the burbles/crackles is going to sound 2x better. If you live in Cali, I wouldn't suggest it, most smog shops can count cats, even if the modification doesn't throw a code (which it doesn't).

Changing out the muffler by itself, the only way to get a deep tone is with a chambered muffler or case style muffler. The straight through mufflers play on essentially a straight pipe tone, and how the muffler is packed and baffle design which just reduces specific frequencies based on the size of the holes. While you may get a nice thump at idle, most straight through designs are raspy under load. I've always thought of it as:

Case/Chamber style = least raspy but not the loudest (tuned and deeper tones)
Straight-through/Tube style = most raspy but the loudest (more natural straight-pipe tones)

Most people are unsatisfied with the OE exhaust simply because they just can't hear it well enough, it's not at an enjoyable volume. Sure, valves open, rev'd out, you hear it a little bit. From the Drivers perspective, the car is too well insulated and exhaust exit diverts all of the best frequency away from the car, so you really aren't hearing the OE exhaust as gloriously as the guy next to or behind you. Drop the secondary cats, you may find that muscle car tone you're looking for without dropping $1500-$2500 on mufflers.

All this talk of exhaust pulses is making me fiend. Need to get the car out now.

[Gen6cyl]

I have x pipe in place of the resonator and mbpr axel back for 1.5 years. Could not be happier with it added so much enjoyment.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

It was just a suggestion for tone, not saying you should go all-out. Just changing the muffler is only going to adjust the tone of the exhaust. If you check out Stainless Works, they have a well put together video sample of the Legend and Redline series on an otherwise OE Camaro test car. I'd press you to replay the stock vs axleback areas of the video repeatedly so you can really compare the difference between the OE muffler vs Aftermarket, as the distinction between the OEM muffler in Aftermarket Mufflers by themselves are just adjustments in tone and usually very minor. If you remove the secondary cats, the entire exhaust note and volume is noticeably different. Arguably, your best bang for your bucks is going to be keeping the OE muffler and removing the secondary cats. Everything from volume, tone, even the burbles/crackles is going to sound 2x better. If you live in Cali, I wouldn't suggest it, most smog shops can count cats, even if the modification doesn't throw a code (which it doesn't).

Changing out the muffler by itself, the only way to get a deep tone is with a chambered muffler or case style muffler. The straight through mufflers play on essentially a straight pipe tone, and how the muffler is packed and baffle design which just reduces specific frequencies based on the size of the holes. While you may get a nice thump at idle, most straight through designs are raspy under load. I've always thought of it as:

Case/Chamber style = least raspy but not the loudest (tuned and deeper tones)
Straight-through/Tube style = most raspy but the loudest (more natural straight-pipe tones)

Most people are unsatisfied with the OE exhaust simply because they just can't hear it well enough, it's not at an enjoyable volume. Sure, valves open, rev'd out, you hear it a little bit. From the Drivers perspective, the car is too well insulated and exhaust exit diverts all of the best frequency away from the car, so you really aren't hearing the OE exhaust as gloriously as the guy next to or behind you. Drop the secondary cats, you may find that muscle car tone you're looking for without dropping $1500-$2500 on mufflers.

All this talk of exhaust pulses is making me fiend. Need to get the car out now.

Unfortunately, I do live in CA (for about the next 2 years, my car is a 2020 so I am going to run right up to my "vehicle inspection", how easy is it to remove the secondary cats?

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Unfortunately, I do live in CA (for about the next 2 years, my car is a 2020 so I am going to run right up to my "vehicle inspection", how easy is it to remove the secondary cats?

As easy as it is to rent a sawzall and rent a welder to weld in a pair of straight pieces in place.

I had a local muffler shop do mine because for the price, I'd save my back. It was stupid cheap. Easy enough for a DIY'er as long as you have some experience melting metal. Just want to make sure you leave as much pipe on the Primary cat side as possible and cut as close to the secondary as you can. You can't have even a small exhaust leak here, or it will throw a code. Once removed, get your jacks and jack stands to hold the rear exhaust in place and get a good fitment on your straight pieces. One or the other side will be not-so-straight due to the inlet/outlet of the secondary cats not being a perfect alignment in the first place. That's okay. Get a few good solid tacks in place, and then you'll want to drop the primary cats off of the exhaust manifolds. PB blaster or deep creep or Kroil is your friend here, let it break the metal loose. Once unbolted, you'll be able to weld completely around your pup pieces no sweat. Spray paint the welds after cooled for anti-corrosion, and bolt the primaries back up. Done. No tune required and the car will now sound like we wish it had come from the factory.

[retmil]

I have the SW 3" cat back Legend system with NPP setup on my 22SS and really like the deeper tone. Also eliminated some of the crackles and pops on decel. Has been on my car for two years with zero issues.

[Keko]

I went with the Borla S-Type over the ATAK since it's more of a classic muscle sound. ATAK has some of that modern "raspy" sound in it, which I'm not a huge fan of. It still sounds good, but S-Type was the easy choice for me.

The S-Type sounds absolutely fantastic, and it's not quite as loud as the ATAK, which is kind of nice. It also eliminates a lot of the raspy sections from the stock exhaust, especially around 2-4k RPM under medium load. I really disliked that range on the stock exhaust.

Here's a short clip of my S-Type.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/rMuqC...?feature=share