[JohnE]

I'm tracking down an oil pressure issue on my SS. Shop can't get me in until next week. This is related to a GM service bulletin:


#PIP5374: Loss Of Oil Pressure On LT1 Camaro Only


Subject: Loss Of Oil Pressure On LT1 Camaro Only
Models: 2016 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Built with the 6.2L LT1 engine


Here is a link:


https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...96128-2280.pdf


I want to do the first few steps of the service instructions. It looks like the pickup tube may need re-working on certain 2016 oil pans ..


Does anyone have access to GM service instructions that they can share with me? I'm looking for SI service procedure (Document ID: 4205917). It details how to remove and re-install the oil pan.



thanks for any help.


John

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by JohnE

I'm tracking down an oil pressure issue on my SS. Shop can't get me in until next week. This is related to a GM service bulletin:


#PIP5374: Loss Of Oil Pressure On LT1 Camaro Only


Subject: Loss Of Oil Pressure On LT1 Camaro Only
Models: 2016 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Built with the 6.2L LT1 engine


Here is a link:


https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...96128-2280.pdf


I want to do the first few steps of the service instructions. It looks like the pickup tube may need re-working on certain 2016 oil pans ..


Does anyone have access to GM service instructions that they can share with me? I'm looking for SI service procedure (Document ID: 4205917). It details how to remove and re-install the oil pan.



thanks for any help.


John

Personally, I'd just wait until next week.

It's quite the hassle to just drop the oil pan. There are several posts on this forum regarding pulling the pan while the engine is still in the car, there's really only one way to do it. The short gist, you'll have to suspend the engine and drop the cradle far enough to get the oil pan out. You will need a thesaurus as well, dropping F bombs gets old and you'll need new profanity for the 'ol vocab. But damn you get a great core workout if you're doing it on a garage floor. Not actually sure you can suspend the cradle far enough to remove the pan while it's on a lift? I'd be curious to see this procedure GM wrote as well.

The easier way is to just pull the engine.

[JohnE]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Personally, I'd just wait until next week.

It's quite the hassle to just drop the oil pan. There are several posts on this forum regarding pulling the pan while the engine is still in the car, there's really only one way to do it. The short gist, you'll have to suspend the engine and drop the cradle far enough to get the oil pan out. You will need a thesaurus as well, dropping F bombs gets old and you'll need new profanity for the 'ol vocab. But damn you get a great core workout if you're doing it on a garage floor. Not actually sure you can suspend the cradle far enough to remove the pan while it's on a lift? I'd be curious to see this procedure GM wrote as well.

The easier way is to just pull the engine.

Thanks Ghost. Yeah, I was hoping there was a simple procedure. The first part of the Service Instructions is to just find the oil pan serial number. If it is a "raised" serial number, then I guess its part of the affected set of cars from 2016. It looks like this part is to just remove the plastic covers under the engine bay and take a look.



I don't have a lift so if its this involved I will skip it. Wondering though approx how many shop hours are involved? If its the oil pump that is bad, it is around 15 hours of shop time to R&R. Was hoping if it is the oil pickup tube that is causing the issue, the shop time will be much less. Any ideas?



-John

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by JohnE

Thanks Ghost. Yeah, I was hoping there was a simple procedure. The first part of the Service Instructions is to just find the oil pan serial number. If it is a "raised" serial number, then I guess its part of the affected set of cars from 2016. It looks like this part is to just remove the plastic covers under the engine bay and take a look.



I don't have a lift so if its this involved I will skip it. Wondering though approx how many shop hours are involved? If its the oil pump that is bad, it is around 15 hours of shop time to R&R. Was hoping if it is the oil pickup tube that is causing the issue, the shop time will be much less. Any ideas?



-John

Getting the plastics and (not sure if it's a "sub-frame brace" aluminum brace) off is pretty quick and easy, some Torx screws/7mm screws and a few bolts. That should get you sufficient access to see around the pan and find your raised numbers if it's stamped. You may not even need to drop that aluminum brace.

If they are quoting 15 hours for replacing the oil pump, 14 of those hours are dropping the pan. I could have the whole front of my engine apart and timing cover ready to come off in an hour if I forego the booze and actually work. 2 hours having a good time. The bitch is dropping the cradle out of the way. The other caveat to dropping the cradle is you'll need an alignment afterwards.

I encourage folks to always maximize their time investment when working with the LT1/LT4 Camaro because when you talk about oil pan/timing cover/heads coming off, there are both OE spec durability/quality of life parts upgrades as much as there are go-fast parts upgrades.

Of course shops are going to charge by the book, so everything you have them do will include a cost. I just don't know how they're going to charge you significantly less time on swapping an oil pan vs swapping an oil pump. If just have the oil pump replaced, you could have them replace the pan as well if it is a pan that could cause you issue, and when they replace the oil pump, give them a C5R chain and at least a 2019+ Chain Tensioner to throw in there as well, it'll cost ya a little more labor and couple parts.

Edit: Did my math on time, forgot that the time to put it back together is slower than taking it apart. 15 hours for an oil pump is pretty accurate. Still the bulk of the time is dealing with the pan, the front of the engine is pretty straight forward, as is replacing the pump since you don't have to do the pump alignment dance on a new pump.

[JohnE]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Getting the plastics and (not sure if it's a "sub-frame brace" aluminum brace) off is pretty quick and easy, some Torx screws/7mm screws and a few bolts. That should get you sufficient access to see around the pan and find your raised numbers if it's stamped. You may not even need to drop that aluminum brace.

If they are quoting 15 hours for replacing the oil pump, 14 of those hours are dropping the pan. I could have the whole front of my engine apart and timing cover ready to come off in an hour if I forego the booze and actually work. 2 hours having a good time. The bitch is dropping the cradle out of the way. The other caveat to dropping the cradle is you'll need an alignment afterwards.

I encourage folks to always maximize their time investment when working with the LT1/LT4 Camaro because when you talk about oil pan/timing cover/heads coming off, there are both OE spec durability/quality of life parts upgrades as much as there are go-fast parts upgrades.

Of course shops are going to charge by the book, so everything you have them do will include a cost. I just don't know how they're going to charge you significantly less time on swapping an oil pan vs swapping an oil pump. If just have the oil pump replaced, you could have them replace the pan as well if it is a pan that could cause you issue, and when they replace the oil pump, give them a C5R chain and at least a 2019+ Chain Tensioner to throw in there as well, it'll cost ya a little more labor and couple parts.

Edit: Did my math on time, forgot that the time to put it back together is slower than taking it apart. 15 hours for an oil pump is pretty accurate. Still the bulk of the time is dealing with the pan, the front of the engine is pretty straight forward, as is replacing the pump since you don't have to do the pump alignment dance on a new pump.

Thanks for the helpful info. I had talked to a shop (unfortunately they are in California) who walked me through oil pump replacement. Since he has done it before he said he could get it done in 4-6 hours, which seems very fast to me considering having to remove the front of the car and probably moving (or removing) the radiator, air conditioning condenser coil, power steering parts to get enough room to get to the oil pump. I don't think my local shops would quote that few # of hours. I wouldn't either. I don't have the shop manuals, so I figured dropping the oil pan would be easy, but it looks and sounds like Chevy packed a lot of stuff in a small area. :-). I take it the "C5R chain and at least a 2019+ Chain Tensioner" are just stronger more reliable parts?

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by JohnE

Thanks for the helpful info. I had talked to a shop (unfortunately they are in California) who walked me through oil pump replacement. Since he has done it before he said he could get it done in 4-6 hours, which seems very fast to me considering having to remove the front of the car and probably moving (or removing) the radiator, air conditioning condenser coil, power steering parts to get enough room to get to the oil pump. I don't think my local shops would quote that few # of hours. I wouldn't either. I don't have the shop manuals, so I figured dropping the oil pan would be easy, but it looks and sounds like Chevy packed a lot of stuff in a small area. :-). I take it the "C5R chain and at least a 2019+ Chain Tensioner" are just stronger more reliable parts?

C5R chain from Katech is a stronger chain than OEM. I do pump Katech brand a lot, there are so many fake C5R chains floating around out there, I just don't trust it if it doesn't come from them, I have had nothing but great experiences with their tech & sales teams over the years working on friends cars as well as my own, and they make quality products.

OEM failures aren't common, but the chain does stretch at a surprising rate which will lead to problems down the road. (I am sure this has a ton more to do with how the car is driven rather than the part has a problem.) The C5R is far more resilient. It's just one of those, you're right there so why not put something better in there preemptively? GM updated the timing chain tensioner in 2018/19, the tensioners failing isn't super common either but it's happened. If you ordered one from a local auto store, I'm pretty sure it'd end up being the latest design by default by now. But one could reference the GM part# to be sure. If you have the chain off, might as well give the new chain something good to ride on. Yes, these would be stronger parts for the LT1, along with a OE spec billet oil pump from Katech.

Regarding the oil pump work, what you are describing is what you'd need to do for a Camshaft swap. To do the oil pump, the radiator fan would come out to make room for the crank damper to come off, but the front bumper, heat exchangers, and everything can stay on. So the focal point of hours is going to be making room under the engine for the oil pan to come off, which is getting the cradle out of the way enough to drop the pan and slide it out. Again, not sure if a Pro shop has the advantage on this or not, maybe with a lift and other shop equipment, they can drop the cradle all the way out without disturbing all the voodoo attached to it that a DIY'er would have to. I've not traveled this path myself, only done the reading, and from the reading, I'd rather just pull the whole engine out Maybe not that bad, but it would make me seriously question whether it isn't time to sell and buy a GT350.

[JohnE]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

C5R chain from Katech is a stronger chain than OEM. I do pump Katech brand a lot, there are so many fake C5R chains floating around out there, I just don't trust it if it doesn't come from them, I have had nothing but great experiences with their tech & sales teams over the years working on friends cars as well as my own, and they make quality products.

OEM failures aren't common, but the chain does stretch at a surprising rate which will lead to problems down the road. (I am sure this has a ton more to do with how the car is driven rather than the part has a problem.) The C5R is far more resilient. It's just one of those, you're right there so why not put something better in there preemptively? GM updated the timing chain tensioner in 2018/19, the tensioners failing isn't super common either but it's happened. If you ordered one from a local auto store, I'm pretty sure it'd end up being the latest design by default by now. But one could reference the GM part# to be sure. If you have the chain off, might as well give the new chain something good to ride on. Yes, these would be stronger parts for the LT1, along with a OE spec billet oil pump from Katech.

Regarding the oil pump work, what you are describing is what you'd need to do for a Camshaft swap. To do the oil pump, the radiator fan would come out to make room for the crank damper to come off, but the front bumper, heat exchangers, and everything can stay on. So the focal point of hours is going to be making room under the engine for the oil pan to come off, which is getting the cradle out of the way enough to drop the pan and slide it out. Again, not sure if a Pro shop has the advantage on this or not, maybe with a lift and other shop equipment, they can drop the cradle all the way out without disturbing all the voodoo attached to it that a DIY'er would have to. I've not traveled this path myself, only done the reading, and from the reading, I'd rather just pull the whole engine out Maybe not that bad, but it would make me seriously question whether it isn't time to sell and buy a GT350.

Oddly, I was initially looking at the GT350 when I purchased my SS. It looks like I'd have to throw in another $20-25K if I sold my SS. :-). Speed wise, they are somewhat similar... My only complaint with the SS 6MT is the gear ratios and electronic nannies which I assume is to pass fuel efficiency standards. My guess is the GT350 would have the same problem, but I was never able to test drive one.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by JohnE

Oddly, I was initially looking at the GT350 when I purchased my SS. It looks like I'd have to throw in another $20-25K if I sold my SS. :-). Speed wise, they are somewhat similar... My only complaint with the SS 6MT is the gear ratios and electronic nannies which I assume is to pass fuel efficiency standards. My guess is the GT350 would have the same problem, but I was never able to test drive one.

The Shelby gets a gas guzzler tax. There are no AFM/DOD type nannies. Not sure if it even has a skip shift lockout, what was always my pet peeve about the SS. Tune took care of that. Still waiting for my official dyno time. It doesn't feel like a 700whp car, but with the parts and how much boost is behind it, it should be right around there. But who knows, it's a NA spec cam and I'm throwing boost at it

The GT350 is a special thorn in my paw to me because prior to going down the modification path, I was tempted to sell the SS when the used car values (inflation) were going to allow me to get $50k for it. I only paid $41k originally. I was still finding plenty of GT350's under $60k. That's a car I would have been happy not modding the crap out of. Maybe a catback and a tune just to let it sing that sweet exhaust note it makes. Otherwise it was plenty stout for a NA engine and plenty for the street. Take it to cars & coffee and let the kids drool on the snake badge. So I dropped $14k on the SS this year and here we are.

I don't know, the 6 Gen Camaro is like that hot girlfriend who was expensive and treated you shitty but you liked it. Just can't seem to let it go. Besides, it's only got 18,000mi on it and now a fresh engine. Got to at least make it to 25,000mi before I DiCaprio her.

[Revalot]

I've seen GT350's sit in yards with grass around them, I'm sure you have heard of the oil usage problem?