[18.2SS.1LE]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

But how would you drive YOUR car?

Just kidding.

But seriously, is there some whiz bang aftermarket pedal that adds 200hp or modifies the stock pedal progression or something? I didn't know there were pedal replacement options out there.

There are too many Robs in here with ZL1's! LOL... These shiny boys picked me up mad throttle response, shift times, braking power and left foot comfort.

[Marozl1LE]

Bro you pay 2k for a katech fuel pump now you have more problems than before that's sadly.

I think if I go with a bigger fuel pump upgrade the old one what is wrong with FSCM from OEM system.


Also, if I add example dw 440 fuel pump on the OEM system or like this one


https://deatschwerks.com/products/9-401-7003


why i need aux pump controller if I had more volume on same voltage !?


I don't need to add any AUX controller or not ?
If the new pump delivers more volume with the same control or voltage, why should you increase the voltage? Then you can drive the system with a JMS voltage booster and save all the work and money if you don't want to overdo the performance.
Or you can put a DSX fuel pump in the bottom, which I personally don't find a nice solution.
please correct me if I'm completely wrong, I want to understand the system.
I like the thing with the upgraded fuel pump in the tank, but all this control and wiring makes you crazy.



Thanks a lot for your support

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

I have the stock pedal off my car I could ship you for the cost of shipping.

Originally Posted by RobZL1

But how would you drive YOUR car?

Just kidding.

But seriously, is there some whiz bang aftermarket pedal that adds 200hp or modifies the stock pedal progression or something? I didn't know there were pedal replacement options out there.

I wish I saw this sooner. I would have picked it up from you, but I wound up buying a used one from eBay here in state. Thank you for offering, I seriously appreciate the community stepping up for another member when they are in need. That's what it's all about! I didn't know there were aftermarket pedals either. Links anyone?!

Okay, so this is going to sound really weird, but going out on a limb here I inflated my tires to 32 psi because I was low on pressure anyway and the sensors were not reading after my battery died on me over my own bone headed stupidity by leaving my high amperage fuel pump relay on for two days when I first hooked it up wrong (really odd wiring diagram). Took it for a spin fully expecting to need to program the TPMS sensors again but the pressures all came back after less than a mile. I went and gave the pedal a few wide open hits and all of a sudden low and behold the problem is gone and things are functioning as expected again.

I still have some codes stored but a lot of them are old from when I left some stuff disconnected while testing with the ignition on. These cars are overly complex for their own good and I can see how even the most experienced of techs are left pulling out their hair and losing sleep at night trying to figure out what the heck is wrong when something else seemingly unrelated is causing the other failures. Good old CAN BUS man, ugh. I'll update the thread if something else pops up but in the meantime fingers crossed everything is back to normal and fully functional.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I wish I saw this sooner. I would have picked it up from you, but I wound up buying a used one from eBay here in state. Thank you for offering, I seriously appreciate the community stepping up for another member when they are in need. That's what it's all about! I didn't know there were aftermarket pedals either. Links anyone?!

Okay, so this is going to sound really weird, but going out on a limb here I inflated my tires to 32 psi because I was low on pressure anyway and the sensors were not reading after my battery died on me over my own bone headed stupidity by leaving my high amperage fuel pump relay on for two days when I first hooked it up wrong (really odd wiring diagram). Took it for a spin fully expecting to need to program the TPMS sensors again but the pressures all came back after less than a mile. I went and gave the pedal a few wide open hits and all of a sudden low and behold the problem is gone and things are functioning as expected again.

I still have some codes stored but a lot of them are old from when I left some stuff disconnected while testing with the ignition on. These cars are overly complex for their own good and I can see how even the most experienced of techs are left pulling out their hair and losing sleep at night trying to figure out what the heck is wrong when something else seemingly unrelated is causing the other failures. Good old CAN BUS man, ugh. I'll update the thread if something else pops up but in the meantime fingers crossed everything is back to normal and fully functional.

Dead batteries in these cars can cause a lot of gremlins, that isn't unheard of.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by clg82

Dead batteries in these cars can cause a lot of gremlins, that isn't unheard of.

A LOT of gremlins apparently. It's a great lithium battery but man did all of this cause a lot of headaches.

[radz28]

DANG!!! Another dead battery-related issue? That's good to know. I'm sorry that happened, but you're helping by sharing your experience, so Thank You for that. Hopefully - that's all it was. Fingers crossed for you.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by 18.2SS.1LE

There are too many Robs in here with ZL1's! LOL... These shiny boys picked me up mad throttle response, shift times, braking power and left foot comfort.

Dang that is Purdy. I forgot how beautiful the aluminum pedal setups look under there. I usually just hop in and go these days so I don't ever take the time to admire what a nice accentuation touch that adds.

Originally Posted by Marozl1LE

Bro you pay 2k for a katech fuel pump now you have more problems than before that's sadly.

I think if I go with a bigger fuel pump upgrade the old one what is wrong with FSCM from OEM system.


Also, if I add example dw 440 fuel pump on the OEM system or like this one


https://deatschwerks.com/products/9-401-7003


why i need aux pump controller if I had more volume on same voltage !?


I don't need to add any AUX controller or not ?
If the new pump delivers more volume with the same control or voltage, why should you increase the voltage? Then you can drive the system with a JMS voltage booster and save all the work and money if you don't want to overdo the performance.
Or you can put a DSX fuel pump in the bottom, which I personally don't find a nice solution.
please correct me if I'm completely wrong, I want to understand the system.
I like the thing with the upgraded fuel pump in the tank, but all this control and wiring makes you crazy.



Thanks a lot for your support

We ABSOLUTELY DO NOT run DW 440 brushless pumps on our setup.

I have at least 37 days worth of headache and experience to tell you that their brushless 440 fuel pump setup DOES NOT WORK on our ZL1's.

By the end of those 37 days I wound up with DW telling me, "We are sorry that you are having issues trying to set up our fuel pump, we have provided you tech support via email for all this time though. We sent you a new controller because we sent you the wrong one originally. We couldn't be troubled to pick up the phone to help you out, but you need to send back our old controller on YOUR dime because our policy is our policy and there are no exceptions to even our own gaff ups on your end. You are also officially past the 30 day return window so we can't authorize a return to the vendor you bought it from, even though we are a major contributing factor in the reason why it has taken you this long in trying to set up our fuel pump and controller setup on your Camaro, because 30 days is 30 days. We also are not going to inform you from the very getgo that the fuel pump controller uses a ground controlled PWM signal (the Camaro uses a power controlled PWM signal). So middle fingers to you because despite the 50+ emails we have exchanged back and forth, all we have to offer you here are our middle fingers and tell you too bad so sad. Enjoy being out $500, a refund for you is no longer our problem."

At the end of the day I wound up giving the pump and controller the big hammer treatment to get my money back. If you are going to use DW pumps, stay far away from their brushless controller and good luck getting any live tech support from them because they can't be troubled to pick up the phone for you.

Originally Posted by radz28

DANG!!! Another dead battery-related issue? That's good to know. I'm sorry that happened, but you're helping by sharing your experience, so Thank You for that. Hopefully - that's all it was. Fingers crossed for you.

Yeah, it really took me for a huge loop here. It's really annoying how a dead battery causes THIS many issues on modern day vehicles. I drove it a lot yesterday, multiple starts and multiple wide open hits and have yet to see any signs of issues so far, so MAYBE it's safe to say that my issues are resolved.

Just doing my part for the community brother! Just like you have helped me, I help you and the others around us given the extremely complex nature of these cars, the more we collectively know and document, the better.

[radz28]

That's great news on the battery. WHEW!!!

I've learned a lot from many people here, so I'm just trying to pay it back. And I completely agree. A lot of the time, it's fun. Sometimes - not so much.

That sucks about DW, too. I can't remember if I tried calling them. I know they were responsive by email, which wasn't always great, being the impatience person I am. And - that sucks you had the experience you had with them, too. My situation was simpler, which is probably why I felt like I got good service. Regardless - that sucks...

It's running good now though!

[Marozl1LE]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Dang that is Purdy. I forgot how beautiful the aluminum pedal setups look under there. I usually just hop in and go these days so I don't ever take the time to admire what a nice accentuation touch that adds.



We ABSOLUTELY DO NOT run DW 440 brushless pumps on our setup.

I have at least 37 days worth of headache and experience to tell you that their brushless 440 fuel pump setup DOES NOT WORK on our ZL1's.

By the end of those 37 days I wound up with DW telling me, "We are sorry that you are having issues trying to set up our fuel pump, we have provided you tech support via email for all this time though. We sent you a new controller because we sent you the wrong one originally. We couldn't be troubled to pick up the phone to help you out, but you need to send back our old controller on YOUR dime because our policy is our policy and there are no exceptions to even our own gaff ups on your end. You are also officially past the 30 day return window so we can't authorize a return to the vendor you bought it from, even though we are a major contributing factor in the reason why it has taken you this long in trying to set up our fuel pump and controller setup on your Camaro, because 30 days is 30 days. We also are not going to inform you from the very getgo that the fuel pump controller uses a ground controlled PWM signal (the Camaro uses a power controlled PWM signal). So middle fingers to you because despite the 50+ emails we have exchanged back and forth, all we have to offer you here are our middle fingers and tell you too bad so sad. Enjoy being out $500, a refund for you is no longer our problem."

At the end of the day I wound up giving the pump and controller the big hammer treatment to get my money back. If you are going to use DW pumps, stay far away from their brushless controller and good luck getting any live tech support from them because they can't be troubled to pick up the phone for you.



Yeah, it really took me for a huge loop here. It's really annoying how a dead battery causes THIS many issues on modern day vehicles. I drove it a lot yesterday, multiple starts and multiple wide open hits and have yet to see any signs of issues so far, so MAYBE it's safe to say that my issues are resolved.

Just doing my part for the community brother! Just like you have helped me, I help you and the others around us given the extremely complex nature of these cars, the more we collectively know and document, the better.

Thanks buddy for your help and answer sounds good
I'm glad it was just the battery problem

[ZLRob]

One more update: after several drive cycles I got the code P2635 again despite everything being stock including the tunes settings. I spoke with Mike @ Katech and he indicated that the OEM FPDCM has certain tables centered around the fuel pump duty cycle that we do not have access to on HP Tuners that can cause that issue. My fuel pressure appears perfectly fine, except for the fact that the actual vs desired pressures are usually between 5-10 psi higher at idle than what desired is actually requesting. He indicated that if all appears fine especially as you are giving it juice on a wide open throttle run (which it does) then at this point it is just a nuisance code and to just go ahead and turn it off within the tune.

I have and all behaves as it should as it did while the code was on. He also indicated that that code in particular will not trigger even if you are running say 30 psi at idle while it wants say 50 or 60 psi.

I'll call this case closed and update again if need be, but outside of the nuisance code this is one bad setup and low side pressures are rock solid all the time under the gun. I like it a lot.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

One more update: after several drive cycles I got the code P2635 again despite everything being stock including the tunes settings. I spoke with Mike @ Katech and he indicated that the OEM FPDCM has certain tables centered around the fuel pump duty cycle that we do not have access to on HP Tuners that can cause that issue. My fuel pressure appears perfectly fine, except for the fact that the actual vs desired pressures are usually between 5-10 psi higher at idle than what desired is actually requesting. He indicated that if all appears fine especially as you are giving it juice on a wide open throttle run (which it does) then at this point it is just a nuisance code and to just go ahead and turn it off within the tune.

I have and all behaves as it should as it did while the code was on. He also indicated that that code in particular will not trigger even if you are running say 30 psi at idle while it wants say 50 or 60 psi.

I'll call this case closed and update again if need be, but outside of the nuisance code this is one bad setup and low side pressures are rock solid all the time under the gun. I like it a lot.

This is a little concerning for me because I bought this module, specifically, because it was stated it would run on the stock tune (with no MILs or anything), which is what I need it to do at certain times... arg... Not good...

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by radz28

This is a little concerning for me because I bought this module, specifically, because it was stated it would run on the stock tune (with no MILs or anything), which is what I need it to do at certain times... arg... Not good...

Yeah it's a little.annoying that the code comes up, but in this situation I guess you can't have your cake and eat it too. At least for me, if I ever run into an issue where my tune itself is an issue I can always just open up my access cover, remove the fuel pump module and replace it with an OE one temporarily.

3-4 hours saved for about 30 minutes to an hours worth of work tops.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by radz28

This is a little concerning for me because I bought this module, specifically, because it was stated it would run on the stock tune (with no MILs or anything), which is what I need it to do at certain times... arg... Not good...

Someone knows a guy............

[radz28]

Originally Posted by clg82

Someone knows a guy............

Someone better find a guy...