[ZLRob]

Who's got one? I just installed mine and initial pressure settings are not what I am commanding from it. Do I need to lower or increase the DC settings on HPT or something? If you got a tune file I can compare it to that would be really helpful in getting this better set up. I don't know if pre and post sensor fuel pressure loss tables need reconfiguring as well or what.

Heck of a unit, I will open up by saying that right now. I absolutely love how seamless it is and how easy to integrate into the factory stuff it is.

[Joshinator99]

Hopefully @radz28 will jump in as I know he’s got one.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Hopefully @radz28 will jump in as I know he’s got one.

Yeah so far it drove good minus a P2635 fuel pump insufficient flow code, but we both know that is entirely a bs code because this should outflow OEM by far.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Yeah so far it drove good minus a P2635 fuel pump insufficient flow code, but we both know that is entirely a bs code because this should outflow OEM by far.

Katech_Mike is very helpful too so worst case you can lean on him too.

Yeah if I was doing road course/track work I’d be running that Katech dual pump as well. But I’m going for mega power/quarter mile so Fore Triple it is lol…

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Katech_Mike is very helpful too so worst case you can lean on him too.

Yeah if I was doing road course/track work I’d be running that Katech dual pump as well. But I’m going for mega power/quarter mile so Fore Triple it is lol…

Lol, yeah that is definitely the best way to go if you are going for balls out power. The Fore with Hydramat on it and you shouldn't ever have any starvation issues at any fuel level ever again.

I have my cranking and base pressures set to 30 all the way up to 44 psi respectively under general driving, but I believe the issue I'm encountering is probably due to excessive duty cycle settings on the base and minimum tables.

Not sure but it would be great to have a reference point which I'm sure Katech can provide or knows what to do within HPTuners. I know the DSX dual pump modules come with a preloaded tune directly from them optimized so you don't have to futz with it after install. It'd be interesting to see what they modify on their version of the tune as well.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Congrats on the upgrade! I wont be any help on your question, but I would like to know if you dropped the tank, or cut an access panel in the back seat area?



Either way, how long did it take?

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Congrats on the upgrade! I wont be any help on your question, but I would like to know if you dropped the tank, or cut an access panel in the back seat area?



Either way, how long did it take?

Thanks brotha! I am so happy to have this setup now and know I have tons of headroom for the future in the low side.

I actually cut a hole in the backseat area and then created an access panel for it using 1/8" thick aluminum then made it fully bolt up by adding in a series of rivnuts to accept 1/4" bolts. It made the install SUPER express and made everything so simple to deal with. Plus the install turned out looking really nice. It looks like it belongs there to be honest. It didn't take me long to do the hole. Maybe a half hour to an hour tops once I really got into the groove of doing it, the access panel and the rivnuts were a different story. 10x10 were my dimensions on the access panel by the way. I then created a hole using a hole saw on the panel on one of the corners to allow wiring to pass through and that is how I ran my wiring from the pump to the Katech controller. I then finally lined the access panel with EPDM foam all around to seal it all up and make it element and noise proof to finish it off. Pump and controller install took me maybe about 2.5 hours just because I was running things differently and trying my best to figure out how to run everything properly without butchering up the Katech harness to make it work on my own setup. I also hooked it up differently from the way Katech instructions want you to and instead of hooking up controller direct to battery I did battery to a high amperage relay to controller, fuse protected of course. Pictures below. It all turned out really nice.

[christianchevell]

I am just beginning to learn about these gen sixes since I decided to mod but on the gen fives we would cut those access to avoid the pain of dropping the tank also... Just a thought, I bought the low side fuel line check valve from LPE and heard it recommended on here and got me one so as to not have a restriction from the stock one ;from the photo shown on a thread is way small... during a install its hidden in the fuel line.....

[XXX ZL1]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I am just beginning to learn about these gen sixes since I decided to mod but on the gen fives we would cut those access to avoid the pain of dropping the tank also... Just a thought, I bought the low side fuel line check valve from LPE and heard it recommended on here and got me one so as to not have a restriction from the stock one ;from the photo shown on a thread is way small... during a install its hidden in the fuel line.....

What did you use to attach line to the factory hard line when you cut the factory restrictor out and used the LPE unit.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Who's got one? I just installed mine and initial pressure settings are not what I am commanding from it. Do I need to lower or increase the DC settings on HPT or something? If you got a tune file I can compare it to that would be really helpful in getting this better set up. I don't know if pre and post sensor fuel pressure loss tables need reconfiguring as well or what.

Heck of a unit, I will open up by saying that right now. I absolutely love how seamless it is and how easy to integrate into the factory stuff it is.

I had good luck initially, and am still working through part of it. I had changed a lot, because I already had a DSX Aux' kit on the car, but my settings when I switched to the Katech didn't result in to much crazy. I was getting a little too much pressure, but was on track to get it where I thought it should be, right or wrong.

• [6976] Increase to around the mid-to-upper 70s. This, I believe, is part of the control limit for the PRIMARY pump. If this is too low, the FPCM will lower PRIMARY PUMP duty cycle. You shouldn't have to go crazy on it, but I raised it a little higher than stock so it wouldn't kill pressure, and allow the AUX' PUMP to put in work.
• [6975] Increased to around [6976]. This is, I believe, the ceiling to the pressure the FPCM will allow the PRIMARY PUMP to maintain before it begins to pull duty cycle from it, to lower pressure. I keep this around the max' I have in [6976]
• [6970] Referenced FUEL PRESSURE/FUEL FLOW to figure through a MATH PARAMETER in the SCANNER. I can't get the SCANNER to give me an error, but I can at least track where the REQUESTED PRESSURE is, in the GRAPH, and apply changes to the cells that need it.
• [6971] Messed with this a little - probably not much effect
• [6972] Messed with this, too, without much effect

I'm not done in my FUEL PUMP saga. KATECH has been helping me out, and I should have a FINAL report in a couple weeks. As I already said - initially - I had a VERY smooth transition moving from my DSX controls to the KATECH pumps. I think it was close enough to the stock tune it wouldn't have needed much, as KATECH says. BUT - I never really finished with the tuning before crap went crazy. ANYWAYS - if you want to read a really brief recap, I'll add that below, but otherwise, to this topic/thread - that's about all I have. I wish I could help more, and if screenshots help, I'm happy to share. I just don't know how helpful they'll be.

RECAP:
I installed the pump the first time, and it was a struggle. I pulled the tank, added AUX' PUMP CONNECTIONS to the REFLEX CONTROLLER, but getting the lines in the tank disconnected and reconnected was a PITA. It was so much so, I had to drop the tank again...

I didn't clock the lines in the tank (the JET/VENTURI PUMP) correctly and they blocked the LEVEL FLOAT, so the gauge wouldn't read full.

Then I dropped the tank a month later, because I wasn't getting FUEL transfer from the other tank, and it ran the PASSENGER'S SIDE dry with about 5-gallongs left in the DRIVER'S SIDE SADDLE. I didn't have all the PUMP MODULE LINES to replace (because of trying to make sure I didn't damage any when installing/reinstalling several times now), so I used what I had, and jambed it back in.

Then I dropped the tank AGAIN, because I had most of the lines and just couldn't stop thinking about a possible leak I caused jambing that dang thing in there and out so many times now. I relaced every line that I touched, and left only one original line.

And that leaves me to today, when I receive another module to install. I'll be doing that this weekend, and adding a couple goodies for a little project I'm trying to help someone with. I think he's released an update on his website for it, but I wasn't told I could/should/can say anything, so I won't, but it's promising for his product and customers, and I'm excited with the testing I've seen and done. If you choose to read between the lines, you'll understand where to go and what you'll see.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by radz28

I had good luck initially, and am still working through part of it. I had changed a lot, because I already had a DSX Aux' kit on the car, but my settings when I switched to the Katech didn't result in to much crazy. I was getting a little too much pressure, but was on track to get it where I thought it should be, right or wrong.

• [6976] Increase to around the mid-to-upper 70s. This, I believe, is part of the control limit for the PRIMARY pump. If this is too low, the FPCM will lower PRIMARY PUMP duty cycle. You shouldn't have to go crazy on it, but I raised it a little higher than stock so it wouldn't kill pressure, and allow the AUX' PUMP to put in work.
• [6975] Increased to around [6976]. This is, I believe, the ceiling to the pressure the FPCM will allow the PRIMARY PUMP to maintain before it begins to pull duty cycle from it, to lower pressure. I keep this around the max' I have in [6976]
• [6970] Referenced FUEL PRESSURE/FUEL FLOW to figure through a MATH PARAMETER in the SCANNER. I can't get the SCANNER to give me an error, but I can at least track where the REQUESTED PRESSURE is, in the GRAPH, and apply changes to the cells that need it.
• [6971] Messed with this a little - probably not much effect
• [6972] Messed with this, too, without much effect

I'm not done in my FUEL PUMP saga. KATECH has been helping me out, and I should have a FINAL report in a couple weeks. As I already said - initially - I had a VERY smooth transition moving from my DSX controls to the KATECH pumps. I think it was close enough to the stock tune it wouldn't have needed much, as KATECH says. BUT - I never really finished with the tuning before crap went crazy. ANYWAYS - if you want to read a really brief recap, I'll add that below, but otherwise, to this topic/thread - that's about all I have. I wish I could help more, and if screenshots help, I'm happy to share. I just don't know how helpful they'll be.

RECAP:
I installed the pump the first time, and it was a struggle. I pulled the tank, added AUX' PUMP CONNECTIONS to the REFLEX CONTROLLER, but getting the lines in the tank disconnected and reconnected was a PITA. It was so much so, I had to drop the tank again...

I didn't clock the lines in the tank (the JET/VENTURI PUMP) correctly and they blocked the LEVEL FLOAT, so the gauge wouldn't read full.

Then I dropped the tank a month later, because I wasn't getting FUEL transfer from the other tank, and it ran the PASSENGER'S SIDE dry with about 5-gallongs left in the DRIVER'S SIDE SADDLE. I didn't have all the PUMP MODULE LINES to replace (because of trying to make sure I didn't damage any when installing/reinstalling several times now), so I used what I had, and jambed it back in.

Then I dropped the tank AGAIN, because I had most of the lines and just couldn't stop thinking about a possible leak I caused jambing that dang thing in there and out so many times now. I relaced every line that I touched, and left only one original line.

And that leaves me to today, when I receive another module to install. I'll be doing that this weekend, and adding a couple goodies for a little project I'm trying to help someone with. I think he's released an update on his website for it, but I wasn't told I could/should/can say anything, so I won't, but it's promising for his product and customers, and I'm excited with the testing I've seen and done. If you choose to read between the lines, you'll understand where to go and what you'll see.

You know it's funny that you reference those ECM numbers. Those are the same ones I have modified on mine. I just reset all my desired and actual fuel pressures to reflect OE values and did a run. I actually maintained rock solid fuel pressures both on high and low sides on my wide open throttle run. The issue is I keep throwing a P2635 code. I don't know if my JMS has something to do with the issue, Katech and I seem to agree that it could be the X factor in my issue, but as far as fuel demand and supply is concerned things look great now. The only issue I'm having is that fueling is all over the place during general driving scenarios. As soon as I hammed down desired and actual line right up no problem throughout the powerband shy of 6000 RPM (I lifted throttle after hitting 6K because I wasn't sure if I was running out of high side again). The problem was that I had E95 after replacing the pump because I left my fuel tank vented open to atmosphere after removing tbe stock fuel pump for a while and it was long enough to allow the gas mixed with the E85 to evaporate, leaving only pure ethanol left in the tank. I filled the tank today and am back to normal E85.

[radz28]

Do you have the JMS rubning now, i addition to the AUX UMP CONTROLLER? Not that I know anything, nor should anyone listen to me, but, if so you shouldn’t need it. I’m not sure if the JMS will force and override the OEM pressure control limits, but if it does, maybe that why you’re getting a code. The FPCM is not getting the response it’s targeting between the JMS and AUX PUMP CONTROLLER trying to push pressures YOU are commanding. I wouldn’t know, but it seems like you and KATECH are on it and are on track.

I, personally even in light of my complications (some of which I have admitted could very well be self-inflicted - I don’t KNOW FOR SURE, but it is a fair possibility), I like this module and bucket. Even with a new competitor, that seems vastly overkill, I appreciate the apparent engineering and quality behind it. I can also see potential for easier installation, but for me, the price isn’t worth the apparent capacity nor the over-engineering (I’m not taking ANYTHING away from any part of it - DEFINITELY PLATINUM QUALITY) are such it would be worth it over this module. I’ll never want the power it supports and don’t need a billet bucket, though it’s SUPER BADASS. MANY KUDOS to them.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by radz28

Do you have the JMS rubning now, i addition to the AUX UMP CONTROLLER? Not that I know anything, nor should anyone listen to me, but, if so you shouldn’t need it. I’m not sure if the JMS will force and override the OEM pressure control limits, but if it does, maybe that why you’re getting a code. The FPCM is not getting the response it’s targeting between the JMS and AUX PUMP CONTROLLER trying to push pressures YOU are commanding. I wouldn’t know, but it seems like you and KATECH are on it and are on track.

I, personally even in light of my complications (some of which I have admitted could very well be self-inflicted - I don’t KNOW FOR SURE, but it is a fair possibility), I like this module and bucket. Even with a new competitor, that seems vastly overkill, I appreciate the apparent engineering and quality behind it. I can also see potential for easier installation, but for me, the price isn’t worth the apparent capacity nor the over-engineering (I’m not taking ANYTHING away from any part of it - DEFINITELY PLATINUM QUALITY) are such it would be worth it over this module. I’ll never want the power it supports and don’t need a billet bucket, though it’s SUPER BADASS. MANY KUDOS to them.

Yeah I run the JMS right now still. I called Vaporworx just to see what they think about it and they indicated I shouldn't need it either, but they also indicated that the increase in duty cycle tables that is on my setup may be causing the issues as well and to either turn it back to OE values or lessen them even further.

Truthfully, I am only still running the JMS because I was under the impression that the DW400 pumps do not like the increased fuel pressures that these cars run in OE config and I was also looking for more stability in voltage. Based on what I told Vaporworx as well they were also recommending that I turn down the JMS to 16 volts and see how it does as well, because as of current I have mine commanding 17.47 volts.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by radz28

Do you have the JMS rubning now, i addition to the AUX UMP CONTROLLER? Not that I know anything, nor should anyone listen to me, but, if so you shouldn’t need it. I’m not sure if the JMS will force and override the OEM pressure control limits, but if it does, maybe that why you’re getting a code. The FPCM is not getting the response it’s targeting between the JMS and AUX PUMP CONTROLLER trying to push pressures YOU are commanding. I wouldn’t know, but it seems like you and KATECH are on it and are on track.

I, personally even in light of my complications (some of which I have admitted could very well be self-inflicted - I don’t KNOW FOR SURE, but it is a fair possibility), I like this module and bucket. Even with a new competitor, that seems vastly overkill, I appreciate the apparent engineering and quality behind it. I can also see potential for easier installation, but for me, the price isn’t worth the apparent capacity nor the over-engineering (I’m not taking ANYTHING away from any part of it - DEFINITELY PLATINUM QUALITY) are such it would be worth it over this module. I’ll never want the power it supports and don’t need a billet bucket, though it’s SUPER BADASS. MANY KUDOS to them.

I was told my JMS Voltage Booster was not needed and it was removed when the Katech Dual drop in fuel pump was installed. If fact, I have a used JSM now just sitting on my tool box!