[beowulf556]

Originally Posted by speedyink1

Sure!

Need:
Sonax

Brush: Not quite my brush but pretty darn close

Small micro fiber towels

Instructions:
-Squirt one or two squirts of Sonax on one of the towels. Rub across the steering wheel, spreading evenly(It's a foam, so fairly easy). Apply enough to slightly wet the areas, especially those where your hands end up the most. Does not need to be soaking wet!! Apply more Sonax to the towel as needed to cover all the areas you want to clean, including shifter.
-Let sit for at least 15 minutes (I let mine sit more like 20-30 mins)
-Grab a new towel and a small bucket with clean, warmish water. Wet the towel(wring out) and start gently wiping a small portion of the wheel. You'll notice grime picking up onto the towel. Rinse the towel, wring out, and repeat the same area until you no longer see grime lifting. Move onto the next area and repeat the process.
-Grab another, dry towel and squeeze the steering wheel all around to suck up any remaining moisture.
-(Optional) I'm sure you could use a hair dryer on low heat to help dry.
-Once dry, use the brush to "puff up" the fabric. Swipe across the fabric in different directions until you find the direction that it "sticks up" the most. Repeat that direction for the piece of fabric. Each different piece of fabric can change what direction you need to brush.

That's about it

This is excellent. I'm somewhat obsessed with cleaning by wheel but I'm going to give your technique a go.

[willzilla]

Finished up the BMR suspension installs on the passenger side of the car. Car is up on my QuickJack so I used my floor jack to lift up the rotor/hub until the car was just beginning to lift up off the QuickJack to put the suspension under load and torqued everything to spec. Added some Super Lube grease to the zerk fittings... bushings didn't seem like they took much grease but I guess that's probably normal? Lol.

Working on driver's side now as well as front and rear sway bars and end links.

Upper & Lower trailing arms, toe rod, and upper control arm. Added rubber boots to the toe rod spherical bearings to hopefully keep the noise down:





Also, noticed my OEM battery was DEAD.. forgot to hook it up to my trickle charger while I had car apart for a few different things :-/ Tried to see if I could bring the battery back to life and hooked up my battery charger/recovery device and it was acting wild.. car was making clicking sounds and the device kept throwing an error. Pulled battery completely out and it looks like it WAS able to get charged back up over 13v but not yet sure if it's recovered or will flatline quickly or not.

[S.Macias]

Originally Posted by willzilla

Finished up the BMR suspension installs on the passenger side of the car. Car is up on my QuickJack so I used my floor jack to lift up the rotor/hub until the car was just beginning to lift up off the QuickJack to put the suspension under load and torqued everything to spec. Added some Super Lube grease to the zerk fittings... bushings didn't seem like they took much grease but I guess that's probably normal? Lol.

Working on driver's side now as well as front and rear sway bars and end links.

Upper & Lower trailing arms, toe rod, and upper control arm. Added rubber boots to the toe rod spherical bearings to hopefully keep the noise down:

Finished up my red the other day with the upper control arm. What a difference. Disappointed I didn't do it earlier. And good call on the heim joints. My heim joints on the endlinks went bad and were replaced with a chromoly set. I went ahead and also installed a boot over them to keep the dirt out and hopefully extend life. You'll like the sway bars.

[speedyink1]

Originally Posted by NYTMARE23

Thank you for all of that!!! APPRECIATE IT!!!

Originally Posted by beowulf556

This is excellent. I'm somewhat obsessed with cleaning by wheel but I'm going to give your technique a go.

No worries!

I get you, I keep my interior pretty immaculate. I got this sweet vacuum that came with all the perfect vehicle attachments that helps big time.

[willzilla]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

Finished up my red the other day with the upper control arm. What a difference. Disappointed I didn't do it earlier. And good call on the heim joints. My heim joints on the endlinks went bad and were replaced with a chromoly set. I went ahead and also installed a boot over them to keep the dirt out and hopefully extend life. You'll like the sway bars.

Looks great! I bought all the suspension parts 2 and a half years ago and yeah.. I've def been putting the install off, LOL.. maybe it's because I have PTSD from changing out every single component on my 2017 WRX (every bushing, every component, everything), lol.

Which boots did you go with for your end links? The same as what is used for the toe rods? The toe rod size boots seem maybe a tad to large? Lol. The toe rod boots I used is RERS36PK Rod End Boots (https://amzn.to/3TyVev1).

[S.Macias]

I used these I found on eBay. A bit tricky to work with but they fit snug https://www.ebay.com/itm/114880495483

No issues since install. Started a discussion here on the torque value for the rear endlink to sway bar nut, consensus was 32 ft lb. BMR suggested 48 ft lbs but seemed way too high. I also have the rear endlink twisted as far down as possible to get the sway bar as parallel to a level surface as possible. The BMR front end links were just too aggressive at the time for my fe2 suspension so I went with the metal fe3 front end links and have had no issues

[willzilla]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

I used these I found on eBay. A bit tricky to work with but they fit snug https://www.ebay.com/itm/114880495483

No issues since install. Started a discussion here on the torque value for the rear endlink to sway bar nut, consensus was 32 ft lb. BMR suggested 48 ft lbs but seemed way too high. I also have the rear endlink twisted as far down as possible to get the sway bar as parallel to a level surface as possible. The BMR front end links were just too aggressive at the time for my fe2 suspension so I went with the metal fe3 front end links and have had no issues

Great, thank you! Looking at their current install instructions it seems they list torque spec as 33 ft/lbs with blue Loctite.

Thanks for the link to the dust boots. I think these would fit possibly, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-rers26pk. Once size smaller than the RERS36PK boots I'm using for the toe rod ends.

[S.Macias]

I think the 33 was for the part that connects to the knuckle. The 32 was for the part at the top that connects the heim joint to the sway bar. Unless they updated their instructions

[willzilla]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

I think the 33 was for the part that connects to the knuckle. The 32 was for the part at the top that connects the heim joint to the sway bar. Unless they updated their instructions

Instructions still seem kind of poor, unfortunately, lol... For ELK017 rear end links:

* 5. Install the BMR end link as shown in IMAGE 2. The offset bushing at the bottom should have the narrow side farthest from the outer knuckle. Tighten the nuts on the sway bar side using a 9/16” wrench and 5/16” Allen wrench.


* 6. Insert the provided 10mm x 60mm bolt and washer into the lower bushing of the end link and tighten using a 17mm wrench. NOTE: Blue Loctite is recommended on this bolt. Torque to 33 ft/lbs.

So, they give the 33 ft/lbs torque spec & blue Locktite spec for the end link bushing side to the knuckle it sounds like, but no torque spec at all for the end link to sway bar side. So it seems your 32 ft/lbs torque spec would apply here for this.

But, conflicting with this somewhat, from their rear sway bar installation guide I see:

* 10. Install the sway bar end links using a 15 mm wrench for the bottom of the end link and a 9/16 wrench and 5/16 Allen key for the top of the end link; torque the top and bottom to 35 ft-lbs. (image 22 & image 23):



So, here, it sounds like 35 ft/lbs for both ends of the rear end links

For the front end links the instructions mention:

* 5. Install the BMR end link onto the vehicle. Tighten the nuts using a 19mm wrench. If the entire shaft spins while tightening, use a 14mm wrench to hold the base of the shaft while tightening the nut.
* 6. With the jam nuts loose on the other end link, adjust it until the end link fits the mounting holes on the vehicle. Tighten the jam nuts.
* 7. Duplicate step 5 for this end link. NOTE: This is our recommended installation procedure and will setup the sway bar and end links neutrally, for information on pre-loading your sway bar please contact BMR Tech.

Zero torque specs provided... but looking at their front sway bar installation instructions I find:

* 15. Using a 14 mm wrench and a 19 mm wrench, tighten the sway bar end links to 35 ft-lb, as seen in IMAGE 14.


So, this indicates, in total, ALL end links are to be torqued to 35 ft/lbs front and back, it seems.

Also, when it comes to sway bars, it looks like the sway bar bushing mounts themselves are to be torqued to 35 ft/lbs as well:

* Front: 16. Using a 13 mm socket, tighten all (4) sway bar bushing mount bolts to 35 ft-lbs. IMAGE 13.

* Rear: 11. Using a 10 mm socket, tighten the sway bar bushing bolts to 35 ft-lbs. IMAGE 24.


I'm doing videos on the installs so want to make sure I'm 100% accurate so conflicting data is always... fun LOL. I'll ping BMR and see if they have any details. I emailed them last week about my toe rod bolts and had a couple different answers on those so maybe something better this time.

I apologize for the excessively long winded reply

[S.Macias]

Instructions could be better from BMR. Here's that post of it helps https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=623376

[willzilla]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

Instructions could be better from BMR. Here's that post of it helps https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=623376

Great, thank you!

[willzilla]

Originally Posted by S.Macias

Instructions could be better from BMR. Here's that post of it helps https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=623376

Forgot to ask... what torque value did you use on the BMR sway bar mounts? See some posts about people snapping off the studs when trying to hit BMR's indicated 35 ft/lbs (with the front mounts)... saw some mention of something like 16 ft/lbs front and 43 ft/lbs for the rear. Is that what you went with?

Also, looking around some more it seems the OEM specs for the OEM end links and hardware is:

Front end link upper 89 ft/lb, front lower 96 ft/lbs, rear end links nut 32 ft/lbs, rear end links bolt 43 ft/lbs.

BMR end links come with their own hardware and show 35 ft/lbs so I'll prob just run that and see how it goes, lol.

[S.Macias]

Originally Posted by willzilla

Forgot to ask... what torque value did you use on the BMR sway bar mounts? See some posts about people snapping off the studs when trying to hit BMR's indicated 35 ft/lbs (with the front mounts)... saw some mention of something like 16 ft/lbs front and 43 ft/lbs for the rear. Is that what you went with?

Also, looking around some more it seems the OEM specs for the OEM end links and hardware is:

Front end link upper 89 ft/lb, front lower 96 ft/lbs, rear end links nut 32 ft/lbs, rear end links bolt 43 ft/lbs.

BMR end links come with their own hardware and show 35 ft/lbs so I'll prob just run that and see how it goes, lol.

I actually just checked and BMR did update their instructions since I last installed in 2022. Thankfully my phone saves everything so I have the 2022 instructions still that say, in very limited information, front 13mm sway bar mounts to 35ft/lb


rear sway bar 10mm mounts to 35 ft/lb


rear sway bar end link bottom bushing to 35 ft/lb


The updated BMR instructions online would of made my install a little easier. Just make sure when your doing the front sway bar you get a few good twist on the mounts on both sides so the bar doesn't fall down and whack you in the face (ask me how I know...)

[speedyink1]

Pain free install (ie: No drilling into my car)

Pretty slick little device.