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Old 07-26-2024, 11:01 AM   #29
RobZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
I doubt a Maggie 2650 would work with that insert. I'm fairly certain it would not be wide enough to fit around the outer edges of a Maggie. I'm pretty sure a Maggie is shorter and wider, hence why a ZL1 hood doesn't need to be trimmed, or subframe spaced. And - without spacers, which I'm not sure would be enough, you'll need a THPSI Maggie 2650 lid to fit under a stock ZL1 hood when using PI plates. CSP said they didn't need it on TreeL1, but I wouldn't know how that's possible. I literally sent my stock Maggie lid to a machine shop to try to shave it to work, and it didn't. Most of the ribs were shaved to leave only around between 1/8-1/4" high, and it still hit near the back edge, just in front of where the hood seats against the cowl seal. For every ZL1 I could remember seeing RPM install a Whipple on, they cut something on the hood. Most of the time, it was the front end, near the pulley, where the hood inner panel captures the front edge of the CF insert. It's hard to remember everything, because they wouldn't film all of the install, but they may have cut a similar area you have to cut for the Edelbrock 2650, too. That was a 2.9 Whipple though. I don't recall seeing an 3.0s the last couple years.
I sort of figured as much on the Maggie clearance. I remember reading your thread when you were going through all of that. It's not a huge deal, but I like the idea of having an alternate solution that doesn't involve buying the lid to go with port injection.

Honestly, though, with the Goliath + XDI bundle deals, I think it's close to equivalent to the THP PI solution, once you factor in everything. I'm talking about fuel lines and fittings and the shorter lid, mainly.

I'm thinking you'd spend about $4,500-$5,000 all in for PI and the supporting stuff (plates, injectors, reflex setup, hoses, fittings, lid).

On the flip side, you'd spend $5,200 for a Goliath pump and +50 XDI's. Plus the install would be a little less of a headache, and it would still look stock if you were going for stealth but with 1khp, especially if you only did a small cam. Plus you'd make maybe 70+ more hp with the DI, based on BTR's data on a 740hp motor

Anyway, just kicking around options for my next build steps. The Goliath and XDI's is looking pretty good.

Sorry for the thread derailment, dreksnot!
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Old 08-13-2024, 11:17 AM   #30
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The Whipple instructions have 3/8" subframe spacers to help the lid clear the hood I presume, as well as a carbon fiber insert.

Q: will a set of BMR motor mounts drop the motor so as not to have to use the spacers?

I contracted BMR and they replied with their mounts are "stock height." But, some others said it will drop the motor 1/2" - anyone know the real answer?
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Old 08-13-2024, 03:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreksnot View Post
The Whipple instructions have 3/8" subframe spacers to help the lid clear the hood I presume, as well as a carbon fiber insert.

Q: will a set of BMR motor mounts drop the motor so as not to have to use the spacers?

I contracted BMR and they replied with their mounts are "stock height." But, some others said it will drop the motor 1/2" - anyone know the real answer?
I can tell you the BMR mounts dropped my engine by about 1/2". I know this because my large diameter catch can between the radiator and pulley had to be moved down. It had ample clearance before the motor mounts, and I had to slide it down about a half inch after because it almost touched the pulley. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 08-13-2024, 05:54 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
I can tell you the BMR mounts dropped my engine by about 1/2". I know this because my large diameter catch can between the radiator and pulley had to be moved down. It had ample clearance before the motor mounts, and I had to slide it down about a half inch after because it almost touched the pulley. Your mileage may vary.
Good to know! I have these mounts sitting in my garage but haven’t installed them yet.
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Old 08-14-2024, 08:08 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Good to know! I have these mounts sitting in my garage but haven’t installed them yet.
So what has been your experience so far with the 3.0? Does it make more power than Eddie, Harrop, and Maggie 2650, etc.?
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Old 08-14-2024, 09:59 PM   #34
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So what has been your experience so far with the 3.0? Does it make more power than Eddie, Harrop, and Maggie 2650, etc.?
I think it’s been very very good. From what I’ve seen it seems to make the same power as the Maggie 2650 but with the Whipple spinning 10% slower, which is a good thing. But I just don’t have enough fuel system yet to really open it up, so the jury is still out.
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Old 08-15-2024, 11:24 AM   #35
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I am seriously leaning towards buying the Whipple and lowering the engine 1/2" wouldn't hurt anything as that would help with the CG of the car for road racing.

I thought I read somewhere the hood needed to be cut out at the cowl area, not in the front...???

I already have the hood scoop center tray removed and a bracket I made to open up the entire ares surrounding it to improve cooling airflow/reducing front end lift.

Does anyone have a photo of the Maggie 2650 bricks to compare with the Whipple? Driving the 3.0L 10% slower is a huge benefit when road racing as that also translates to less parasite drag losses.
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Old 08-15-2024, 05:40 PM   #36
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The 3.0 IC brick is one single the size of the lid.
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Old 08-15-2024, 08:04 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZLElvira View Post
I am seriously leaning towards buying the Whipple and lowering the engine 1/2" wouldn't hurt anything as that would help with the CG of the car for road racing.

I thought I read somewhere the hood needed to be cut out at the cowl area, not in the front...???

I already have the hood scoop center tray removed and a bracket I made to open up the entire ares surrounding it to improve cooling airflow/reducing front end lift.

Does anyone have a photo of the Maggie 2650 bricks to compare with the Whipple? Driving the 3.0L 10% slower is a huge benefit when road racing as that also translates to less parasite drag losses.
Need a shorter lid for a Maggie 2650, and I got mine through THPSI. Maggie 2650 bricks, each, measure:

~ 3" tall
~ 3.75" wide
~ 13.5" long

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613426
post #1 about 1/3 down the long @$$ page
photos in there, too
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