[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

Yeah no one has faith in engineers anymore :(

We can thank the tunnel vision MBA types "leading" big companies whose lackeys hamstring engineers.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

Yeah no one has faith in engineers anymore :(

There's a reason why their recommendations are to be taken with a sack of salt...!!

Its the same sensibility that they develop the first ever "GM Flow-Tie" badge to increase airflow to the engine, yet the safety fanatics squash every possible gain made by that remarkable idea by putting a massive foam impact absorber across the front of the car to reduce the damage to pedestrians!!

Lets also not forget that the use of Mobil1 is a marketing tool, that no one who truly is racing with any modicum of data-aquisition is using that junk. The switching from 0W-40 for street is only to save the cats and back to 15w-50 for track was because the money generated from Dealer Services outweighs the costs to use a dry-sump in the ZLE vs 10qt sump.

Switching to Amsoil RD50 will drop the engine temps significantly doing nothing else. I have run this on the track in the middle of the summer for extended flat out sessions, draining the entire fuel tank doing so without any oil temp issues. Compared to the Mobil1, the Amsoil was not only 20-30 degrees cooler, it had a faster idle pressure recovery when back in the paddock area. I have also left this oil in and driven from ATL to Rochester, NY and Miami without changing it back to 0W40 with no notable drop in MPGs.

The big resolution to drop the engine temps is to do what I am doing, remove the truck heat exchanger that sits on the oil pan and runs hot engine coolant from the driver's side head to through the oil heat exchanger and back to the radiator... this is worthless in hot climate areas and is simply designed to "heat up" the engine oil in colder climates.

Think about all the hard work your engine coolant system has to deal with and watch my video below to see this system is a joke for anyone who truly drives this car. The engine cooling system has the transmission and rear axle also looping fluid through the driver's side!! I am building my car to separate all these systems so my reliability and thermal control is UNDER CONTROL!

Here is one of my videos explaining this controlling of the cooling.



If you DO NOT have this ducting installed, you MUST ADD THIS to increase the airflow OUT of the engine bay and to increase the efficiency of your existing heat exchangers up front. They are worthless if the airflow stalls and is pressured to get out.

https://www.gmpartsoutlet.net/oem-pa...ector-84669205

[clg82]

Where do those parts you linked actually go? And what weight Amsoil RD50 are you using?

never mind just saw the RD50 was specific to 15W-50.

So you would even suggest RD50 for a garage queen, or do like everyone else suggests and stick with stock?

[ZED SLED]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Lets also not forget that the use of Mobil1 is a marketing tool, that no one who truly is racing with any modicum of data-aquisition is using that junk.

hmmm, interesting. In the mid '90s when I shared a lab with the Ford Motorsports guys in Dearborn, the F1 guys highly touted Mobil 1. Said it's all they would use, even in their own street cars. Must be why they dropped out of F1.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by ZED SLED

hmmm, interesting. In the mid '90s when I shared a lab with the Ford Motorsports guys in Dearborn, the F1 guys highly touted Mobil 1. Said it's all they would use, even in their own street cars. Must be why they dropped out of F1.

Or he's an AMSOIL salesman.....

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by ZED SLED

hmmm, interesting. In the mid '90s when I shared a lab with the Ford Motorsports guys in Dearborn, the F1 guys highly touted Mobil 1. Said it's all they would use, even in their own street cars. Must be why they dropped out of F1.

Funny how the Ford Motorsport guys in the mid 1990s gave five Mustang LX 5.0 test cars to Royal Purple to undergo a week's long test to compare several different oil brands in a severe usage test. During that test I participated in driving one of the cars and we simply ran them at very high speed around Texas World Speedway's high-banked oval for the entire week for 8-12 hour sessions. The only stops were to add fuel/oil and change tires/drivers.

In the end, the RP racing versions proved to have superior cooling, more compression at the end of the test and used less fuel overall. The car using a Mobil1 5w30 lost the engine, and another car using Castrol Racing oil tested higher than the Mobil1 racing oil that was offered back then.

I have tested the RP in my Camaro as well as tested the Mobil1 variants and each time the Amsoil has been a better choice for the price point. Additionally, I have been outboard drag racing & offshore powerboat racing for the past 15 years and Amsoil has been the dominant source of lubrication.

I am not advertising to sell it... I am simply relaying the info from actual real-world usage. If you want to keep using junk because they sold it to GM and Mercedes, go for it!! When I ran my C63 AMG in the OLOA and at Daytona Speedway with speeds up to 180mph, the tests conducted with Mobil1 would force the engine to go into Limp Mode within three laps at NOLA MotorSports Park!! In switching to Royal Purple R20, (a lighter weight making more power than the spec Mobil1) we ran an entire week of racing without one drop into limp mode.

Take it for what its worth... I back up all my testing with track videos on my channel.

https://www.youtube.com/@DavidWilks/videos

[LTfun]

Originally Posted by KamZL1

Yeah no one has faith in engineers anymore :(

Speak for yourself, scientists/engineers are one of the few folks left that I have faith in.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by LTfun

Speak for yourself, scientists/engineers are one of the few folks left that I have faith in.

Are these the same Engineers that develop the "security systems" that have failed to keep our beloved cars out of Street Takeover videos?

Are these the same engineers who put a critical wiring harness through the rear tire liner? Yeah... if it works for you, keep going.

[KamZL1]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

We can thank the tunnel vision MBA types "leading" big companies whose lackeys hamstring engineers.

Many such cases

[ariZona28]

Originally Posted by clg82

Hey everyone I'm new to Texas and boy does it get hot and humid here. I am currently running the OEM recommended Super Car oil weight for my 2020 but was wondering if I should switch to something heavier due to how hot it gets here and humid (not sure if that matters). Any ideas? It's not a daily driver and spends 80% of it's time in the garage but want to make sure i'm keeping the engine as safe as possible with these heat index numbers.

Run the factory recommended 0w-40 Supercar. Change once a year or every 5,000 miles, more often if it makes you feel better. Monitor your oil and coolant temps. It's hot here in Az too. I run the 0w-40 Euro in my LS3 C5 track toy. I change oil after 4 track days. Regularly hit 270 to 280 F oil temps during 15 to 20 min sessions and 90-100 F ambient temps. Good Blackstone reports. My track buddy has been running his LS3 car for several seasons with Mobil 5w-30 but he has a DeWitt oil cooler, I do not.
Just my .02.

[KamZL1]

Originally Posted by LTfun

Speak for yourself, scientists/engineers are one of the few folks left that I have faith in.

Thanks, I'll try to make you proud

[LT4Greg]

I use Lucas 5W30 synthetic in mine and no issues to date. Haven’t changed mine in almost 3 years but planning to change mine in the fall of this year. Doesn’t have that many miles on it since I changed it last.

[Megahurtz]

0w40 Supercar oil is perfectly fine for a street driven ZL1 with bolt-ons. Even in very hot climates and driven hard on the street. 5w-50 Supercar is perfectly fine on the track for stock or bolt on ZL1's.

I have plenty of 700+ rwhp LT4 cars running around with Supercar Oil without any issues. Some of them run Driven DI40 as well without an issue but those guys are 900+ rwhp.

I'm not an advocate or a detractor for the boutique oils that are available for our motors. But I think the scare factor they try to use with advertising is a bunch of crap. They often try to convince you that your factory recommended oil will damage your engine so you better switch to theirs.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

I'm not an advocate or a detractor for the boutique oils that are available for our motors. But I think the scare factor they try to use with advertising is a bunch of crap. They often try to convince you that your factory recommended oil will damage your engine so you better switch to theirs.

Completely agreed in general, just wanted to add that I use Amsoil (mostly because of my mods), and never have I seen or heard any advertising from their end that would even hint at the factory oil being inadequate. They do additive and wear comparisons like everyone else, then let you decide what's important for you.