[lDejavul]

So my oil pump just went at 60k miles on my 16SS M6. So I figured while in there a CAM would be nice. This is my first sports car and I've done all the work myself so far but this is beyond what I can research\do on a rushed timeline so I'm having it done at a local shop.

What I already have.
Pray remote tuned.
Kooks long tube headers 1 7/8 in. x 3 in
Pray ported ZR1 throttle body (95mm)
Pray ported intake manifold (stock)
Rotofab CAI
DSX Flex Fuel E-85 kit
Cats Removed

My concerns are getting the most out of the car while not beating it to death. I have been researching the best ways to prolong the life of the motor while having a fun cam. I don't race and mostly highway drive. I would say a good 80 percent of my time is highways, but I do enjoy being able to take it around the city.

The shop here recommends I put in TSP stage 2 cam kit, 227/242 .646"/.631" 112 LSA, 109.5 ICL w/ +32% and TSP trunnion upgrade kit.

And they recommended having TSP port the heads as well, but after reading about the issues with porting the stock heads and knowing Pray is probably months away from even answering emails I think I've settled on the PRC heads from TSP. I would love some MAST heads but they are beyond my budget.


I'm concerned about the TSP CAM first and foremost. Unless there is a revision to the CAM I read the lobe is pretty aggressive and read bad things about float and bounce. I do like the numbers I see from their dynos but if I can do it smarter I'm all in. I was wondering if maybe the BTR Gen V 225 would be a smarter move. I do love a choppy sounding lobe.

Here's the rest of my plans but only talked to the shop yesterday and hes out today so I'm looking for feedback before I go.

PRC heads with the standard fittings"2.165" Stainless Hollow stem Intake Valve / 1.600" Stainless Exhaust Valve
TSP .660 Spring Kit w/ PAC Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers
CHE Bronze Guides"
2110r Johnson lifters (worth it from what I've read?)
TSP Trunnion kit (havent seen any reason to go above these)
Katech C5R timing chain
Replace current chain tensioner -Not sure if I should do the $250 LMR chain guide but at least getting a new stock tensioner.
Katech oil pump A7503 that has higher oil pressure but requires a tune.

Any advice? Anything thing I missed?

[Germansheperd1]

Originally Posted by lDejavul

So my oil pump just went at 60k miles on my 16SS M6. So I figured while in there a CAM would be nice. This is my first sports car and I've done all the work myself so far but this is beyond what I can research\do on a rushed timeline so I'm having it done at a local shop.

What I already have.
Pray remote tuned.
Kooks long tube headers 1 7/8 in. x 3 in
Pray ported ZR1 throttle body (95mm)
Pray ported intake manifold (stock)
Rotofab CAI
DSX Flex Fuel E-85 kit
Cats Removed

My concerns are getting the most out of the car while not beating it to death. I have been researching the best ways to prolong the life of the motor while having a fun cam. I don't race and mostly highway drive. I would say a good 80 percent of my time is highways, but I do enjoy being able to take it around the city.

The shop here recommends I put in TSP stage 2 cam kit, 227/242 .646"/.631" 112 LSA, 109.5 ICL w/ +32% and TSP trunnion upgrade kit.

And they recommended having TSP port the heads as well, but after reading about the issues with porting the stock heads and knowing Pray is probably months away from even answering emails I think I've settled on the PRC heads from TSP. I would love some MAST heads but they are beyond my budget.


I'm concerned about the TSP CAM first and foremost. Unless there is a revision to the CAM I read the lobe is pretty aggressive and read bad things about float and bounce. I do like the numbers I see from their dynos but if I can do it smarter I'm all in. I was wondering if maybe the BTR Gen V 225 would be a smarter move. I do love a choppy sounding lobe.

Here's the rest of my plans but only talked to the shop yesterday and hes out today so I'm looking for feedback before I go.

PRC heads with the standard fittings"2.165" Stainless Hollow stem Intake Valve / 1.600" Stainless Exhaust Valve
TSP .660 Spring Kit w/ PAC Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers
CHE Bronze Guides"
2110r Johnson lifters (worth it from what I've read?)
TSP Trunnion kit (havent seen any reason to go above these)
Katech C5R timing chain
Replace current chain tensioner -Not sure if I should do the $250 LMR chain guide but at least getting a new stock tensioner.
Katech oil pump A7503 that has higher oil pressure but requires a tune.

Any advice? Anything thing I missed?

What does the car ET and MPH now?

[lDejavul]

Not sure. Haven't really tracked it. I'm not to interested in numbers, just fun.

[7speed]

Never been too impressed with tsp vvt 2 cams that I've seen at drags.
I think btr 225 with that manual would be nice.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by lDejavul

So my oil pump just went at 60k miles on my 16SS M6. So I figured while in there a CAM would be nice. This is my first sports car and I've done all the work myself so far but this is beyond what I can research\do on a rushed timeline so I'm having it done at a local shop.

What I already have.
Pray remote tuned.
Kooks long tube headers 1 7/8 in. x 3 in
Pray ported ZR1 throttle body (95mm)
Pray ported intake manifold (stock)
Rotofab CAI
DSX Flex Fuel E-85 kit
Cats Removed

My concerns are getting the most out of the car while not beating it to death. I have been researching the best ways to prolong the life of the motor while having a fun cam. I don't race and mostly highway drive. I would say a good 80 percent of my time is highways, but I do enjoy being able to take it around the city.

The shop here recommends I put in TSP stage 2 cam kit, 227/242 .646"/.631" 112 LSA, 109.5 ICL w/ +32% and TSP trunnion upgrade kit.

And they recommended having TSP port the heads as well, but after reading about the issues with porting the stock heads and knowing Pray is probably months away from even answering emails I think I've settled on the PRC heads from TSP. I would love some MAST heads but they are beyond my budget.


I'm concerned about the TSP CAM first and foremost. Unless there is a revision to the CAM I read the lobe is pretty aggressive and read bad things about float and bounce. I do like the numbers I see from their dynos but if I can do it smarter I'm all in. I was wondering if maybe the BTR Gen V 225 would be a smarter move. I do love a choppy sounding lobe.

Here's the rest of my plans but only talked to the shop yesterday and hes out today so I'm looking for feedback before I go.

PRC heads with the standard fittings"2.165" Stainless Hollow stem Intake Valve / 1.600" Stainless Exhaust Valve
TSP .660 Spring Kit w/ PAC Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers
CHE Bronze Guides"
2110r Johnson lifters (worth it from what I've read?)
TSP Trunnion kit (havent seen any reason to go above these)
Katech C5R timing chain
Replace current chain tensioner -Not sure if I should do the $250 LMR chain guide but at least getting a new stock tensioner.
Katech oil pump A7503 that has higher oil pressure but requires a tune.

Any advice? Anything thing I missed?

Looks like good parts to me. Cam choice is like asking what flavor soda someone likes to drink. BTR has a lot of great tech talk and cam R&D, and I haven't seen anyone saying they've been unhappy with their cams.

I went with the LME timing chain guide, but I've had friends with LS's run them so I wasn't worried. Famous last words for me, LOL. I'm not running a VVT delete, so we'll see how it likes that. 4 degrees shouldn't be that big of a deal though. Don't forget your DOD delete plugs, and VVT limiter (or lockout/Delete). Gaskets/seals as well. I'm sure the shop you pick will advise you on those details, though. I went with the VVT limiter for my build, since my car is more weekend toy. But if it gives me issues, I'll go full delete on its ass. BTR claims their cam likes VVT though, so we shall see.

As for your choice in oil pump, any particular reason you're wanting to run the higher pressure oil pump? I went with the Katech billet pump for my build, but OE spec. My engine is built to factory tolerances, and I plan to run 5w30 as I never track my car and it will see limited abuse, maybe running to the top of 1-4 gears. Beyond that, there aren't many roads for me to use the top of 5th gear. And I don't do WOT in 6th because I'm not a fan of skylights in my blocks. IMO the only reason to use a higher pressure or higher volume pump is in an aftermarket block, using bearing clearances that call for it, or parts the are spec'd for an increase in demand. The higher pressure pump is only going to increase pressure at peak. While oiling ~is~ critical at high rpm, more pressure could cause premature bearing wear or damage elsewhere in the system. I think having good oil/filter in the car and having good oil change habits is more beneficial than a higher pressure pump in a factory engine with factory tolerances.

I just suggest being careful with that, based on your intended use of the car, I don't see a need to go higher pressure and I think it could just open the door to unintended problems down the road.

Other than that, I wish I had done what you're build sheet looks like, for myself lol. It will be a fun machine all said and done.

[Baddawg53]

Do yourself a favor and go with the CHE trunnion bushings. I upgraded to a roller trunnion and the rollers and trunnions were both pitted and eventually going to fail. Unfortunately I can't find the pictures I thought I took of them. All of the valvetrain is a maintenance item after a cam upgrade, at least from my experience, and I definitely didn't want to see those needle bearings get loose inside my engine.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

Do yourself a favor and go with the CHE trunnion bushings. I upgraded to a roller trunnion and the rollers and trunnions were both pitted and eventually going to fail. Unfortunately I can't find the pictures I thought I took of them. All of the valvetrain is a maintenance item after a cam upgrade, at least from my experience, and I definitely didn't want to see those needle bearings get loose inside my engine.

Good call, went with the same for my build. Didn't even think of suggesting it to OP lol. Did you have a hard time pressing your OE's out?

[lDejavul]

I've heard Johnson lifters lose some oil pressure and figured it would be better to have a little more oil pressure. I called katech and asked their opinion on my build and was told it would have no negative effect and the only real difference is the spring for the high pressure side.

[lDejavul]

So the TSP trunnion "replaces OEM needle bearings with captive bearing design" is just a needle bearing pressed into a sleeve or something and those are not as good as the CHE sleeves I assume?

Just added to the sheet. For $70 I might as well be sure.

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

Good call, went with the same for my build. Didn't even think of suggesting it to OP lol. Did you have a hard time pressing your OE's out?

It was pretty simple to replace the OEM trunnions and bearings, a big enough vice and some proper diameter sockets. Little tricky to line everything up to press in the new bearings though. Wish I would have went with the CHE from the jump, stiffer springs and high lift cam puts a lot of pressure on them.

[Baddawg53]

Originally Posted by lDejavul

So the TSP trunnion "replaces OEM needle bearings with captive bearing design" is just a needle bearing pressed into a sleeve or something and those are not as good as the CHE sleeves I assume?

Just added to the sheet. For $70 I might as well be sure.

I'm not going to say that the TSP is "bad", I'll just say I much prefer the CHE. I'm sure each is good for a certain application, and it's probably a matter of matching it up to your build.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by lDejavul

So the TSP trunnion "replaces OEM needle bearings with captive bearing design" is just a needle bearing pressed into a sleeve or something and those are not as good as the CHE sleeves I assume?

Just added to the sheet. For $70 I might as well be sure.

The captive bearing design may keep the bearings in place in the event of a failure but it doesn’t really address the wear issue that leads up to failure. The problem with bearings in a lifter, is that bearings are typically designed to distribute and share loads. No single bearing is supposed to take all the abuse, which is exactly what happens in the rocker. The bearing doesn’t spin as bearings are really intended to, so eventually the bearings getting smacked the hardest wear faster, and unevenly. Eventually it’ll just fail. The OE’s can end up running through your engine. You can imagine what a needle bearing would do floating around in the heads or rotating assembly lol. You don’t have this issue with a bushing design. There are other pros/cons but for a street build non-track car, the CHE’s weren’t that pricey.

[Joey Soul]

From what i read about tsp cams knocking out the seats and having crazy valve bounce i didnt want to run anything from a company with such little concern for the product quality and end user. I went btr cam and had tune time performance cnc stock heads. Cars been good running time trials.

[lDejavul]

Yea, I ended up going with the btr225 cam. Still waiting for parts, and the install will probably take a few weeks. I'm incredibly nervous. I'm not the most trusting person and this is literally the first time I haven't been the one turning wrenches myself. I wish I had the time and help to do the work myself but the oil pump died at the worst possible time.

My next concern is testing/replacing valve springs without pulling the heads. I know this is going to become a new mtx item so I gotta wrap my head around the smartest procedure and tools to make the job easier.