[beworthy3]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Pad taper is very common, and probably worse on oem pods that get too hot. it helps to flip the pads between track days. I also switch between OEM (Ferodo HP1000) for street and autox and Ferodo 3.12 for track. Since both are Ferodo you don't need to rebed the brakes when switching, and once you get it down you can change pads really quickly. The 3.12s are $$$ bot worth it, they last a long time and performance on track is amazing.

I was just looking at rotors, I found DBAs w/o hats for just under $300 each if you don't mind reusing the hats, and $750 for OEM rotors with hats on amazon.

I will definetly start to flip pads. This was only the 3rd day on these pads so I was caught a little off guard.

Which DBA rings did you find? I looked but couldnt find any that cheap

[DaveC113]

Yeah, 3.12 are expensive but I have about 10 days on mine and will probably get a couple more, plus mu is much higher so you won't need to use as much pedal pressure.

Double check these will work, but I'm pretty sure they will... discount code "memorial24"

https://goturbo.net/dba52770-1ls-dba...ring-52770-1ls

[beworthy3]

Thanks for the code. Didnt work though lol. All good. I found some replacements that are decently priced.

I’ll have to think about getting the 3.12 pads. I think i just ran these pads down too long. Got 4 days out of my last set. This set was on day 4. The price for the 3.12 is hefty but might be worth it if you are getting 10+ days on them.

[RoaringV8]

I've also experience pad taper as some pistons tend to hang more than others for whatever reason. I rotate my pads after events for this reason. Even after rebuilding and putting in vented pistons I still have this issue though it isn't all that bad. I've been using the EBC SR-11's recently and have been pretty happy with them. They are also pretty good on rotor life.


That amount of track days you have on those rotors is in line for about what I'd expect the life of the rotor to be.

[khcoaching]

One of the best features of the Gen6 Camaro on track is the brakes. But, that performance comes at a cost with the weight of our cars. I'm in the habit of a "brake service" every 2 days at the track.

- Pull wheels
- Remove and inspect brake pads, rotors
- Measure thickness of pad/rotors
- Clean calipers, pistons and pins with soapy water (dawn works best)
- Reassemble
- Minor chassis inspection

I also have switched to Cobalt pads, as while huge Ferodo fan, the cost is nuts and Cobalts are much cheaper with same or better performance.

Ken

[beworthy3]

Yeah it looks like I’m going to have to start a system like this. I think doing the pocono mega course last month or what messed it up for me. That was my 3rd day on these pads. But the amount of corners and braking at that track probably wore them down at double the rate of a normal day.

Flipping pads is something I’ll start doing more often

[N Camarolina]

Originally Posted by khcoaching

One of the best features of the Gen6 Camaro on track is the brakes. But, that performance comes at a cost with the weight of our cars. I'm in the habit of a "brake service" every 2 days at the track.

- Pull wheels
- Remove and inspect brake pads, rotors
- Measure thickness of pad/rotors
- Clean calipers, pistons and pins with soapy water (dawn works best)
- Reassemble
- Minor chassis inspection

Ken

Yup, pretty much my procedure after each track weekend. I measure the pad thickness and use a spreadsheet to calculate how the wear is occurring on each pad location (LI vs LO vs RI vs RO) as well as top or bottom so I can see how the wear taper is. Do this enough times and you'll see a common wear pattern which will help you decide where to rotate the pads to (pad with the most material on it gets rotated to position and orientation that tends to wear the greatest). Some may argue it's a bit overkill, but I've got an analyst mind and want to get the most out of the $ I'm spending on pads. I figure I'm getting at least an extra track day or 2 out of each pad set by doing this process.

[m6-lt1]

Are you guys flipping the rear pads too or just the fronts?

[N Camarolina]

I flip the rears also, but they don't tend to taper as much.

If you want to flip them, you'll need to cut off the screetch wear tabs as they won't slide into place (the inside if I recall) with the tabs on them. An angle grinder or Dremel cut off disc will do the job though.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by beworthy3

What the inside of the rotor looks like.

Slap a new set of pads in there and the rotor will clean up naturally and continue to work well on track assuming it is not below minimum thickness and there are no cracks to the inside or outside edges (especially check the inside from the back of the rotor where the rings bolt to the hats). I've done it multiple times when the rotors looked worse than that.

For SS 1LE normal (48 state legal) brakes, stock front rotors are 34mm thick new and 32mm is the minimum (discard) thickness.

[beworthy3]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Slap a new set of pads in there and the rotor will clean up naturally and continue to work well on track assuming it is not below minimum thickness and there are no cracks to the inside or outside edges (especially check the inside from the back of the rotor where the rings bolt to the hats). I've done it multiple times when the rotors looked worse than that.

For SS 1LE normal (48 state legal) brakes, stock front rotors are 34mm thick new and 32mm is the minimum (discard) thickness.

I will measure the thickness tonight or tomorrow and will think about doing this. I thought somebody might tell me this is ok. I already have the new rotors so I might just change anyway

[kropscamaro16]

time to hit up kns brakes and get some girodisc rings!