[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by carguy55

You have any more pics of the rear mounting in the wheelwell? A bunch of us have mouted the rears in the trunk thru the trunk vents.

I don't, but I just riveted the MCS mounting kit to the wheelwell and used the supplied zip ties. I like the trunk vent solution though, seems like a better idea. I didn't know there were trunk vents...

[Euro2012]

Anyone able to post pics of where they went through the trunk vents?

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by Euro2012

Anyone able to post pics of where they went through the trunk vents?

I'll post some later

[carguy55]

The good, the bad and the ugly. After talking with some others who have the remotes, I decided to copy them and mount the remotes in the trunk. This is not the ideal solution since the length of the hose limits where you can mount them inside.

To get to the vent area with the fender liner already removed, just remove any remaining screws at the bottom of the rear bumper cover I think theres 2 or 3. This allows you to pull apart the rear quarter panel enough from the trunk area to get to the trunk vent hole (vent cover just pops out).

Picture is of the vent hole area with the vent cover already removed. On the battery side just plan it so you can reach the knob over the top of the battery. The metal is thin so you need to use bolts, nut's and washers to mount the remote. Too thin for pem nuts etc. I put 3/8" high temp wire loom cover material over the hose to protect it. When I put the vent covers back in I notched them enough to clear the hose.

Mine turned out just ok, I can reach the knobs! A more talented installer could do a better job. I'm sure there is more professional solutions, like getting the quick discounts which would allow you to route the hose thru a small hole, which would give easier access. However, this requires the remotes to be charged after install.

You don't adjust these knobs often compared to the fronts, so the access works fine so far.

[carguy55]

I just completed my second track day with them and improved my time by about 1 second on a 1.7 mile lap. The average improvement is supposed to be about 1 sec per mile, so still working on it. Was able to adjust knobs to eliminate a little bit of corner exit oversteer I had based on some tuning charts a buddy shared. I was able grab P2 in the TT event I was running. Voshlag set me up with the max spring package which may be a little too much for my current setup, so may be trying some other spring rates if I don't add BIG aero.

[carguy55]

A great tip I was given for mounting the fronts was to use worm clamps instead of the tie wraps Vorshlag gives you. This is due to the heat under the hood, the plastic ties just don't stay tight. I used black clamps with heatshrink covers

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by carguy55

I just completed my second track day with them and improved my time by about 1 second on a 1.7 mile lap. The average improvement is supposed to be about 1 sec per mile, so still working on it. Was able to adjust knobs to eliminate a little bit of corner exit oversteer I had based on some tuning charts a buddy shared. I was able grab P2 in the TT event I was running. Voshlag set me up with the max spring package which may be a little too much for my current setup, so may be trying some other spring rates if I don't add BIG aero.

What are your current settings?

Originally Posted by carguy55

A great tip I was given for mounting the fronts was to use worm clamps instead of the tie wraps Vorshlag gives you. This is due to the heat under the hood, the plastic ties just don't stay tight. I used black clamps with heatshrink covers

A constant tension worm gear clamp would be better than a normal clamp. Regular worm gears cannot expand with added temperatures. Constant tension clamps keep the same clamping force as temperatures increase.

[carguy55]

I started with 7 comp, 13 rebound on all 4 corners. I need to check where I ended up. Seemed to work great to start with. Everyone will be a little different.

Also if you haven't changed to longer front sway bar endlinks, you may need to since the MCS have different mounting points. I had Turner at SPL set me up with longer ones and they worked great.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by carguy55

I started with 7 comp, 13 rebound on all 4 corners. I need to check where I ended up. Seemed to work great to start with. Everyone will be a little different.

Also if you haven't changed to longer front sway bar endlinks, you may need to since the MCS have different mounting points. I had Turner at SPL set me up with longer ones and they worked great.

Yup Turner told me to get the model 3 endlinks for the front

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by carguy55

I started with 7 comp, 13 rebound on all 4 corners. I need to check where I ended up. Seemed to work great to start with. Everyone will be a little different.

Also if you haven't changed to longer front sway bar endlinks, you may need to since the MCS have different mounting points. I had Turner at SPL set me up with longer ones and they worked great.

I'm assuming you are talking about number of clicks from full soft???

If so, that is really high rebound settings, especially with such a low compression setting. I would think you would be getting "jacking down" with that much rebound compared to compression.

Although every car and set-up is different, but I run mine at 9 for both compression & rebound. I found that once I got above 10 rebound, I lost compliance over bumps and the ride was overly harsh and abrupt.

[Slurpee]

For anyone that has installed the MCS shocks, did the splined shock bolt? The splines do not fit on the lower shock hole for me. Called Vorshlag and they said they did not have issues with the splines either. I tried freezing the bolt and torching the strut and knuckle and the splines would catch the strut hole, not the knuckle. I even rented a ball joint press to push the bolts in. The strut hole clears the knuckle, I can stick my finger through without catching anything. And a M16x2x70 without splines feeds through perfectly.
I went to 5 hardware stores yesterday and I could only find 1 M16x2x70 10.9 bolt. I have to shave off the splines on the other bolt with a Dremel like Picasso. Still haven't gotten it to fit through. Have emissions due at the end of this month, so I can't wait for another bolt to ship.

[DaveC113]

Yeah, so I had a conversation with both Vorshlag and MCS about this issue. They know damn well about it as they just heard it from me a few months ago.

The splines are supposed to engage the strut mount too, look at the OEM one and you can see the spline marks. The problem is the mounting tab used by MCS is made out of harder steel than the OEM strut, which uses folded sheet metal, MCS uses thick plate. I used an impact to install the splined bolt, but later when I had to remove it, it was a major PITA and it even bent the mounting tab on one side as I hammered thr bolt out, luckily not permanently, but I had to use a pry bar to minimize the bending as I removed the bolt. It also damaged the bolt so I had to replace it. The other side was difficult but not quite as bad, it didn't bend the mounting tab or damage the bolt but took way more hammering than it should.

When I reinstalled the bolts I used a grinder to remove about 1/3rd of the splines. I think the splines are required keep alignment from slipping, so I wouldn't substitute a non-splined bolt. I have not removed the bolts since then, I hope it'll be easier next time. Good Luck!

I'm honestly not that happy with Vorshlag and how they dealt with issues that came up. There was shipping damage and 2 shocks had to be sent back to MCS for repair and Vorshlag seemed to think it was "a nothing burger" as they told me. Two of the rebound adjustment shafts were bent so the rebound knob wobbled when turned. They blamed UPS, but I'm not convinced UPS opened the package and repacked everything. IMO, it was packaged inadequately to begin with. Then they were dismissive of the issue with the splined bolts and seemed to think it was an issue with me. I'm a mechanical engineer and owned my own auto shop at one point. They did pay to have the shock shafts repaired, but never reimbursed me for shipping or for the damaged alignment bolt, and I definitely got some attitude.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Yeah, so I had a conversation with both Vorshlag and MCS about this issue. They know damn well about it as they just heard it from me a few months ago.

The splines are supposed to engage the strut mount too, look at the OEM one and you can see the spline marks. The problem is the mounting tab used by MCS is made out of harder steel than the OEM strut, which uses folded sheet metal, MCS uses thick plate. I used an impact to install the splined bolt, but later when I had to remove it, it was a major PITA and it even bent the mounting tab on one side as I hammered thr bolt out, luckily not permanently, but I had to use a pry bar to minimize the bending as I removed the bolt. It also damaged the bolt so I had to replace it. The other side was difficult but not quite as bad, it didn't bend the mounting tab or damage the bolt but took way more hammering than it should.

When I reinstalled the bolts I used a grinder to remove about 1/3rd of the splines. I think the splines are required keep alignment from slipping, so I wouldn't substitute a non-splined bolt. I have not removed the bolts since then, I hope it'll be easier next time. Good Luck!

I'm honestly not that happy with Vorshlag and how they dealt with issues that came up. There was shipping damage and 2 shocks had to be sent back to MCS for repair and Vorshlag seemed to think it was "a nothing burger" as they told me. Two of the rebound adjustment shafts were bent so the rebound knob wobbled when turned. They blamed UPS, but I'm not convinced UPS opened the package and repacked everything. IMO, it was packaged inadequately to begin with. Then they were dismissive of the issue with the splined bolts and seemed to think it was an issue with me. I'm a mechanical engineer and owned my own auto shop at one point. They did pay to have the shock shafts repaired, but never reimbursed me for shipping or for the damaged alignment bolt, and I definitely got some attitude.

I definitely think a splined bolt is required for the top strut hole because it is oval vs circular, but the bottom appears to just hold it in place. Not sure how much movement there would be without the splines, especially with how high of a torque setting these bolts are at (111lb ft + 80-95 degrees). I had to hammer one bolt so much that I've actually rounded it a bit. I need to use a 12 point socket to seat it now, which is why I picked up the ball joint press to press it in, and why I am leaning towards using a bolt without splines and witness marking it to see if there any movement on the bolt and nut. If not, then I would imagine there is no impact to the alignment.


Shipping damage is the worst. I only have 1 knob that is a little finicky to depress, other than that have not had issues with turning the knobs. I have them all set at the MCS baseline recommendation.


But I was also a little disappointed with Vorshlag. My dampers were 2-3 weeks late being shipped out, even with the dampers arriving early to Vorshlag. Once the dampers arrived and my camber plates arrived, all of my emails were ghosted. I had to call for an update and was told mine were next to be assembled for 2 weeks. Car has been on quickjacks for a month by the time the dampers came in.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

I definitely think a splined bolt is required for the top strut hole because it is oval vs circular, but the bottom appears to just hold it in place. Not sure how much movement there would be without the splines, especially with how high of a torque setting these bolts are at (111lb ft + 80-95 degrees). I had to hammer one bolt so much that I've actually rounded it a bit. I need to use a 12 point socket to seat it now, which is why I picked up the ball joint press to press it in, and why I am leaning towards using a bolt without splines and witness marking it to see if there any movement on the bolt and nut. If not, then I would imagine there is no impact to the alignment.


Shipping damage is the worst. I only have 1 knob that is a little finicky to depress, other than that have not had issues with turning the knobs. I have them all set at the MCS baseline recommendation.


But I was also a little disappointed with Vorshlag. My dampers were 2-3 weeks late being shipped out, even with the dampers arriving early to Vorshlag. Once the dampers arrived and my camber plates arrived, all of my emails were ghosted. I had to call for an update and was told mine were next to be assembled for 2 weeks. Car has been on quickjacks for a month by the time the dampers came in.

Yeah, not sure I'd give Vorshlag my business again.

MCS also knows about the spline bolt issue and apparently have not revised the hole diameter after I talked to them about it. I'd consider reaming out the shock mounting tab on the MCS strut so the splines still engage but the bolt is easier to install. You may have luck with a non-splined bolt though, idk.