[2SS Capt]

So my 2SS is 4.5 years old, doesn't get driven much (just passed 10,000 miles) and has never had a battery tender on it... It still starts well but thinking of pre-emptively replacing the battery... Couple questions...

1. Is it time, should I just bite the bullet now? It isn't my daily driver and I do have a jump box)

2. Is this a high quality replacement battery or is there something better? https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...dh6/937705_0_0

3. Should I get a battery tender going forward?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks!

[GreyGhost702]

I did the same thing as you essentially. 2019 with 16k/mi, OE battery was starting to sound a little tired, had some slow cranks but car always fired up. Took a chance on the Duralast AGM (not exactly a cheap battery by any means) and the first time I took a read file via HPT and the battery got depleted so hard I had to jump it. It wouldn't even click for me, everything just dimmed off when I tried to start it. Fired right up on a 15A jump after a couple minutes to cook. Put a tender on it from there to bring it back up to health. But it's not inspiring. I am going to put it through its paces and if it goes stupid on me again I'm going to ask for a refund and buy another OE.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

I did the same thing as you essentially. 2019 with 16k/mi, OE battery was starting to sound a little tired, had some slow cranks but car always fired up. Took a chance on the Duralast AGM (not exactly a cheap battery by any means) and the first time I took a read file via HPT and the battery got depleted so hard I had to jump it. It wouldn't even click for me, everything just dimmed off when I tried to start it. Fired right up on a 15A jump after a couple minutes to cook. Put a tender on it from there to bring it back up to health. But it's not inspiring. I am going to put it through its paces and if it goes stupid on me again I'm going to ask for a refund and buy another OE.

From what I found the OEM battery has been discontinued which is why I posted the battery I did...

It's still starting, but when it sits for a couple weeks (which is, unfortunately, fairly often), sometimes it sounds a little weak... At 4.5 years old without ever having a battery tender, I'm getting a bit concerned...

Just looking for solid input on which direction to go...

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

From what I found the OEM battery has been discontinued which is why I posted the battery I did...

It's still starting, but when it sits for a couple weeks (which is, unfortunately, fairly often), sometimes it sounds a little weak... At 4.5 years old without ever having a battery tender, I'm getting a bit concerned...

Just looking for solid input on which direction to go...

Well, I only used that Duralast for about 2 weeks before I put the car down for my current build. The day before I put the car down was when I pulled the read file for my tuner to work on building a tune. I swear I didn't do anything battery heavy to the car prior to pulling the read file, in fact the car had been run just an hour prior as I took my last little joyride for a while, so the battery should have been nicely juiced. After I pulled the read file, the Duralast wouldn't turn the car over. I hit the start button and everything just dimmed away. Had to throw it on a 15A boost charge for a couple minutes, then it fired up. Not sure why pulling a read file would be so hard on the battery in such a short period of time. Couldn't have taken more than a minute or two. Maybe I got a dud Duralast. But it's an AGM, it should be able to take it.

Not sure where you looked for the OEM battery, it's not discontinued from what I've found. Alternatively, I've used Optima Red tops and Yellow tops in previous vehicles without an issue either. But I don't think they are worth their markups typically. My AC Delco AGM had been in the car since I rolled off the dealer lot, and I only replaced it pre-emptively a couple months ago. I only bought the Duralast AGM because it was on the shelf and similar price. The AC Delco has to be shipped, no one had one on the shelf.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...AaAsDnEALw_wcB

I did run a charger on mine the last year or so, because that's about how long the slow starts had been going on. As long as I left it on the charger it had a strong start, but leaving cars & coffee after it sat not running for a few hours it would still give me the slower crank, I figured it was a matter of time. In addition, I'm adding a front/rear dash cam setup to the car as added security/proof of evil, once the build is done. The wiring for power has a voltage kill switch for the camera so if the voltage drops below 12.3v it will shut the cameras down until voltage is restored. But I fear this duralast isn't going to be up to the challenge of living in that voltage state.

I run a 4A smart charger from HF, it's cheap and very good for its price. I use it to keep my RV batteries up as well. It doesn't just keep the battery at 100% every day, voltage gets varied. That helps keep a battery alive longer. Dealers choice, though. Use what you like, but use something. Once a battery starts living in a low voltage state it will damage the battery until it's not recoverable.

[knighti2]

I have not replaced the one in my Camaro as yet but I have used Interstate for last few car changes and they have always been fine.

Just FYI: There is not as much "selection" as it looks with all the brands out there.
Most aftermarket car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies that build them for retailers: Johnson Controls, which sold to Brookfield Business Partners who rebranded to Clarios (2019), Stryten; and East Penn.

[Evergreen6]

I'd go down to my favorite parts store and get the exact size/group replacement and use that. Wouldn't spend the extra money for an Odyssey or Optima, never have, never will.

Keep the new one on a tender. That will help make sure it will last another solid 5 years, and will reduce the amount of sulfating or any deep discharge from sitting.

I don't like waiting until a battery dies to replace it. It's hard on the electrical system, so I think you're doing good by doing a routine replacement before it actually fails.

[ctrlz]

This what I got from amazon, which was identical to the factory battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

This what I got from amazon, which was identical to the factory battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Awesome, thanks guys, I think I'll get the ACDelco one from Amazon...

[haggler]

I'd get whatever AGM has the longest warranty, which last time I checked was whatever Walmart was selling. I think they have 4 year warranty for AGM unlike costco or sams club. I have a low power battery tender jr. which I use the days I know I wont be driving just to keep it topped up. I have almost 6k miles in 1.5 yr.

[kropscamaro16]

mine lasted about 4 years got it replaced under warranty then about 2 years later i replaced it with a antigravity battery

[shoe5163]

I got a 2017 with 86000 still original battery, dealer says a new battery won't last as long.

[STYLO LT1]

My OEM battery lasted 5 years and was working when I changed it out just in case. Never failed to start. Just took preventative measures.

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Awesome, thanks guys, I think I'll get the ACDelco one from Amazon...

That's the one I have bookmarked, when it's time to replace mine.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

That's the one I have bookmarked, when it's time to replace mine.

Yeah, I'll probably sit tight for a while and just throw my jump box in the trunk on the rare occasion the car sees sunlight... If it gets really weak or needs the jumpbox I'll push the "BUY NOW" on Amazon... It isn't my daily and having the jump box I won't get stranded... No ssence buying a battery too far in advance in this situation... However I think on the next battery I will likely do a tender...