[dbs1]

I might b getting a newer ZL1 and start from scratch

[Jetrep]

this will be fun to read - and I'm sure big money to get to that 4 digit number.

The Yenkos are pricey and their latest 24 model is stated to make 1,500 crank hp. Amazing thing to me is chevy will warranty the car

[RobZL1]

Heads, cam, 2650, big gulp, 112TB, port plates, fuel system, e85, 2" headers, 3" mid section Boom. 1krwhp.

20k in parts plus probably 15 or 20 in labor and tuning.

[dbs1]

Can one get there using the stock sc, aftermarket lid and Kong x port and all the other associated mods?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Heads, cam, 2650, big gulp, 112TB, port plates, fuel system, e85, 2" headers, 3" mid section Boom. 1krwhp.

20k in parts plus probably 15 or 20 in labor and tuning.

FYI at 1K WHP the LT4 short block is on borrowed time…. Crank is fine but the LT4 “forged” pistons & rods should be upgraded.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

FYI at 1K WHP the LT4 short block is on borrowed time…. Crank is fine but the LT4 “forged” pistons & rods should be upgraded.

Katech says the stock stuff with main studs, rod bolts, and good bearings will handle 1000 easily. I'd upgrade the thrust bearing, too.

[BMLMZ]

RPM stage 5 should get you there. Or multiply this 2x if you go through vengeance or LMR in tx.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Katech says the stock stuff with main studs, rod bolts, and good bearings will handle 1000 easily. I'd upgrade the thrust bearing, too.

LT4 rods have been pulled at that level and were bending. Aftermarket options are superior… if you’re going to pull it apart for a proper thrust bearing and main studs, it’s insane to reuse pistons & rods at the end of their capacity.

[Megahurtz]

Built motor, 416ci, Whipple 3.0, All the fuel mods + port setup, E85, Drag Pack, and then start saving to build the transmission.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by dbs1

I might b getting a newer ZL1 and start from scratch

I kept the stock SB, and made 1000+ with heads, valve train, E2650, FBO, 100 oct. and OEM hpfp, but the SB began to fail.

I didn't see your budget. There are a bunch of ways to get there the simplest and least stressful way perhaps would be an LME 427 with 2650, FBO, etc.

The cost driver in the discussion is, you should upgrade your entire long block and transmission.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

LT4 rods have been pulled at that level and were bending. Aftermarket options are superior… if you’re going to pull it apart for a proper thrust bearing and main studs, it’s insane to reuse pistons & rods at the end of their capacity.

My C7Z is new stock rods at the time with diamond pistons. I told LPE what I wanted to do and they said it would be fine. Sees 14psi at 3krpm and 24 degrees of timing by 3,500rpm. Peaks at 17.5psi and 26 degrees of timing.10k miles later she still rocking. Tune is dialed and is only DI only though. Loading the cylinder with meth or port injection AFR’s I’m sure wouldn’t help matters.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by CamOnlyJabroni

My C7Z is new stock rods at the time with diamond pistons. I told LPE what I wanted to do and they said it would be fine. Sees 14psi at 3krpm and 24 degrees of timing by 3,500rpm. Peaks at 17.5psi and 26 degrees of timing.10k miles later she still rocking. Tune is dialed and is only DI only though. Loading the cylinder with meth or port injection AFR’s I’m sure wouldn’t help matters.

24 and 26 I'm down at 22.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

LT4 rods have been pulled at that level and were bending. Aftermarket options are superior… if you’re going to pull it apart for a proper thrust bearing and main studs, it’s insane to reuse pistons & rods at the end of their capacity.

Interesting. I didn't realize that. I thought Katech had pushed them on the engine dyno to 1500 or so before they started to see rods bend. No doubt the aftermarket is better, just figured if it's good to 1500 crank or so, why bother. But if it's not, it certainly makes sense to upgrade.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Interesting. I didn't realize that. I thought Katech had pushed them on the engine dyno to 1500 or so before they started to see rods bend. No doubt the aftermarket is better, just figured if it's good to 1500 crank or so, why bother. But if it's not, it certainly makes sense to upgrade.

1000 WHP is just under 1200 crank HP. You’re pretty much asking for double what GM intended. So if you’re pulling it apart to do studs, thrust bearing, etc and you’re dropping 1K WHP money, then just do it all haha