[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by CTRifecta

Amazing attention to detail. I can't wait to hear your review of how it sounds. Also curious to how much weight has been added when all said and done.

Thanks. I'll have a video series on my YouTube channel documenting the process along with measurements and reviews of the changes.

The short summary is that it's quiet enough now that you only hear the engine/exhaust when revs are high, and tire/road noise is mostly gone. A small bit of music is all you need to overcome everything else - which achieves the desired goal. I can have music on at a comfortable volume, near conversation levels, and the music is all you hear.

When going over bumps, you'll get a small bit of suspension noise, but nothing annoying. Treating the wheel wells was a huge improvement as a step 2. Nothing comes from the rear, it's really quiet back there and rear passengers say that the only noise they hear is from the front. The firewall is not treated. The floors could be treated a bit better with added barrier on top of the CLD. That may be a spring project.

As far as weight, about two Americans. Center of gravity is lower and more rearward. This is a daily driver, not a racecar, so some added weight to make it more enjoyable is totally worth it.

[hrpiii]

Just amazed. My skill level for something like that is a -2 if the scale is 1-10. I would of never thought to do the wheel wells, that was just awesome. Beautiful work!

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by hrpiii

Just amazed. My skill level for something like that is a -2 if the scale is 1-10. I would of never thought to do the wheel wells, that was just awesome. Beautiful work!

Thanks! It's just really time consuming and you go as slow as you have to do get a nice result.

The wheel wells are a huge source of noise. I fully treated the rear quarters so those wheel wells are treated from inside but I couldn't get to the front quarters any other way.

[19ZL1Chris]

Great read. Any current updates ? I just found this build and love it.

I'm doing the same in my '19ZL1. I'm actually changing it up again. About to do all the Bose replacements next. Either audiofrog or hertz. I'm running the Axxess-AXDSPX-ETH1 to 2 mini max 1004s and a jp43 . But changing out the 1004s for the 34ab again. 2 of em. A single X12v3 for sub.

Soon as LLj customs starts to make loop ack harnesses again I'm grabbing one of them and doing a Helix DSP. I really dislike this axcesaa one.

Anyways would love to see more of this build.

[FrostZ]

Fantastic write up! I am also in the process of a build using a fully active 3 way Audiofrog GB10,25,60 system in my 19 ZL1 and this has been an amazing read full of tips and info to better my system setup. Unfortunately I get to content with the Bose OEM amp, but hopefully my Axxess interface paired with a Helix DSP Pro MK3 will be able to get a clean and workable signal for me. I love the attention to detail you put into both your build and the writeup of the process, thank you for all of that as it really helped in the final planning stages before starting right after the new year.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by 19ZL1Chris

Great read. Any current updates ? I just found this build and love it.

I'm doing the same in my '19ZL1. I'm actually changing it up again. About to do all the Bose replacements next. Either audiofrog or hertz. I'm running the Axxess-AXDSPX-ETH1 to 2 mini max 1004s and a jp43 . But changing out the 1004s for the 34ab again. 2 of em. A single X12v3 for sub.

Soon as LLj customs starts to make loop ack harnesses again I'm grabbing one of them and doing a Helix DSP. I really dislike this axcesaa one.

Anyways would love to see more of this build.

Thanks! The update is that I am still enjoying the quiet ride and the vast improvement that the new speakers provide. Life is busy and thus I am waiting for the next steps, which include a measurement of the factory EQ and then integration of the JL MVi amplifiers. Then I'll have to modify the dash covers in order to fit the ML70 and ML28 in, which will happen when it warms up in spring.

Originally Posted by FrostZ

Fantastic write up! I am also in the process of a build using a fully active 3 way Audiofrog GB10,25,60 system in my 19 ZL1 and this has been an amazing read full of tips and info to better my system setup. Unfortunately I get to content with the Bose OEM amp, but hopefully my Axxess interface paired with a Helix DSP Pro MK3 will be able to get a clean and workable signal for me. I love the attention to detail you put into both your build and the writeup of the process, thank you for all of that as it really helped in the final planning stages before starting right after the new year.

My attention to sound absorption, gaskets, and barriers is vital to the success of any system of any price. I've judged several cars with that combination of GB speakers and they usually sound very nice. But even the best speakers can be terrible if the environment is poor.

I specifically ordered my car without Bose to simplify the process, but also chose the 1SS over the LT1 to get the 8" screen (along with the other benefits).

[keep_hope_alive]

After the noise treatments in the doors, floor, and rear of the Camaro, I turned my attention to the firewall. These vehicles have a tube that runs from the engine intake pathway to the firewall, with a diaphragm to isolate airspace but allow sound to pass through. The solution is to 3D print two pieces that let you plug each of the holes – one at the firewall and one at the intake pathway, just before the throttle body. I printed these out of ABS.

The fire wall connection looks like this:




[img]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/e128/phat_funky_beats/20240124_211949.jpg[img]



The hose connection at the intake pathway looks like this:


And the rubber hose clamps are easily opened and removed as they just use push-clips.


The diaphragm is held with T50 Torx bolts:




With the hose removed, you have this:


The result at the firewall is this piece with butyl gasketing:


The result at the intake pathway is this plug that fits perfectly:




The result is very noticeable. All of the intake noise is gone. The chugging noise from V4 mode is gone. The cabin is much more comfortable.

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

The trunk floor is very resonant and in need of a lot of treatment.



After full coverage of CLD, the floor is very dead.





Then I covered the floor with CCF from my stock of Ensolite that I’ve had for a while.



I also treated the bottom of the rear deck with CLD



Then I covered it with CCF in order to hide the silver deadener since the rear deck is visible.



With the side panels fitted in place, the scope of CCF is sufficient, even though it’s not a perfect finish, it is hard to get a seamless install.




And here is a first look at where I plan on mounting the amps, a MV600/6i and a MV1000/1 with the MVi Hub.

Incredible setup you got going on there. You're probably gonna be able to hear the phone call noises they got at the recording studio during recording.
I'm curious as to why you are using the marine versions of those JL amps.
Also, I read the description for the MVi hub, and just like the rest of your install, is pretty over the top (in a good way).
Does Cat5 Ethernet cable connectivity improve sound quality over using RCA cables?
Is the Cat5 Ethernet cable connectivity and app control worth $450? Or is it like the audiophile equivalent of buying a RTX 4090 for a PC?

[drewleague]

Eagerly awaiting updates on this, I’m starting some of my build soon, but really curious to see what you do for an amp rack as I’m already stealing so many ideas here.

Definitely won’t be going as in depth with sound deadening but planning on doors, trunk and trunk lid to start. Using 2 helix amps, one with the built in dsp and stereo integrity mids with audio frog gb15 tweeters. Can’t justify going to nicer subs yet as my p3 Rockfords are still kicking, but once those go, want to go a more sql route on the subs as well.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by drewleague

Eagerly awaiting updates on this, I’m starting some of my build soon, but really curious to see what you do for an amp rack as I’m already stealing so many ideas here.

Definitely won’t be going as in depth with sound deadening but planning on doors, trunk and trunk lid to start. Using 2 helix amps, one with the built in dsp and stereo integrity mids with audio frog gb15 tweeters. Can’t justify going to nicer subs yet as my p3 Rockfords are still kicking, but once those go, want to go a more sql route on the subs as well.

Amp rack will be started soon, but it will look like the picture above. That pocket is a perfect place to hide amps.

A few delays; getting a new engine in my Camaro was a big delay, and I have a few other projects that I've started that have higher priority. One is a 2010 Accord that I've gutted to clean as it's going to my youngest daughter and was a smokers car. It needs a lot of mechanical, cosmetic, and interior work to get right (was cheap).

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by DualSS

Incredible setup you got going on there. You're probably gonna be able to hear the phone call noises they got at the recording studio during recording.
I'm curious as to why you are using the marine versions of those JL amps.
Also, I read the description for the MVi hub, and just like the rest of your install, is pretty over the top (in a good way).
Does Cat5 Ethernet cable connectivity improve sound quality over using RCA cables?
Is the Cat5 Ethernet cable connectivity and app control worth $450? Or is it like the audiophile equivalent of buying a RTX 4090 for a PC?

I realized that I missed your questions.

Why Marine MVi? Good question. Simple answer: I was on the Beta Test team and I have them.

I'm using 14awg speaker wire from the factory head unit to the 600/6i for front audio inputs, high level, balanced. Then RCA from 600/6i output to 1000/1 input.

The Hub is there for programming ease, so they communicate since all tuning and adjustments are thru a laptop. in my case, it's not really needed and I could just have two USB ports in the rear facia to access the amps. Historically, I routed USB cables to the cabin for ease of programming while listening.

[keep_hope_alive]

November 2024 Update:

I've just been driving it since I got the new engine. I'm at 37k mi. now need to find a window of time to tear into it more.

I have MLV to install on the floor for further noise reduction.

I need to install the amplifiers and decide on a subwoofer location and size. While tempted to just trunk-baffle and replace the rear seat with a sub wall, I cannot fit golf clubs in the car without folding the seat down, something I want to continue to do. I daily this, so I need the extra trunk depth on demand. That means the best bet is the driver's trunk corner... where I want to put the amps. But if I do the rear corner for a sub, all of my noise isolation in the rear deck is pointless as i'll have to open the space back up.

I like running front 3-way components active, so that means doing a lot of modifications to the dash corners to integrate mids and tweeters. Likely 3D printing components. Removing the windshield to would make this easier and allow me to remove the headliner. Not gonna happen this year. May likely just run a 2-way front for now, I've already made brackets for tweeters in place of the stock full range in the dash.

If I stay front 2-way, I may install my high-output Hertz 6x9 in place of the rear/side speakers, in custom enclosures. This would allow for high-output music with windows down, and they would be off for most listening with windows up (to enjoy the sound stage). Possible as rear-fill to enhance soundstage depth with a lot of processing.

TL/DR: I have a lot more planned.

[mpride]

I’m getting ready to upgrade the sound system in my car later this year and have a question or two for you. I’m looking at applying CLD under the black panel on the underside of the trunk lid. In looking this piece over I noticed that the edge of the panel will mostly likely vibrate against the metal of the lid itself with any sub woofer volume at all. Did you do anything to trunk lid? What can be done there to stop the potential for vibration and not be visible outside the black panel?

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by mpride

I’m getting ready to upgrade the sound system in my car later this year and have a question or two for you. I’m looking at applying CLD under the black panel on the underside of the trunk lid. In looking this piece over I noticed that the edge of the panel will mostly likely vibrate against the metal of the lid itself with any sub woofer volume at all. Did you do anything to trunk lid? What can be done there to stop the potential for vibration and not be visible outside the black panel?

I outline the panel with a thin foam to prevent those two hard surfaces from interacting. Tedious to make it look good but not overly difficult. I really like the foam from Resonix. https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/pr...7s-3s-3f-tape/