[SaldalaPerformance]

Kill switch for fuel system on 2016+ SS, SS 1LE, ZL1, & ZL1 1LE
How the switch works:
The toggle switch acts as a disconnect for the fuel pump wiring. When the switch is in the off
position, the car will continuously crank without starting up.
If the car was recently on prior to attempting to start the car with the switch off, the car will
likely turn on and run until the fuel empties out of the line, this is approximately 3 seconds or
so.
The intention of the switch is to prevent thieves from driving your car away. MAKE SURE to
turn the switch back ON before attempting to drive the car so it won’t give you a CEL.
If you or a thief attempts to turn on the vehicle with the switch in the OFF position, the car will
issue a CEL. Just use a obd2 code reader and clear the code and continue with your day.
Items needed:
Toggle switch
16ga wiring
Butt connectors
Electrical tape
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Wire crimps
Wire loom
Drill and drill bit (to mount in a specific spot, not needed if using an existing hole.)
The wiring diagram can be found here :
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/attac...4&d=1669240808

[Deacon Blues]

Very much appreciated information, thank you for such a detailed guide. Anything we can do to stop these thieves is welcomed!

[david_acm]

Neat thanks for the info! I have a couple questions that I hope you can answer.

When I unlock the car, I hear what I assumed was the fuel pump working for a few seconds before starting the car. If this is true, do you have to turn on the fuel pump and let it run for a few seconds before starting the car, or is the noise I'm describing related to something else?

[Caerus]

Great first post contribution to the forum. Thanks.

[SaldalaPerformance]

Originally Posted by david_acm

Neat thanks for the info! I have a couple questions that I hope you can answer.

When I unlock the car, I hear what I assumed was the fuel pump working for a few seconds before starting the car. If this is true, do you have to turn on the fuel pump and let it run for a few seconds before starting the car, or is the noise I'm describing related to something else?

No. Just flip the switch on if you want to drive the car. No need to prime anything.
I’ve been using this for over 6 months now with no issues. I also am FBO e85 and track the car heavily.

[david_acm]

Sweet, thanks again!

[He11bent]

Another option

https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart-...p-immobilizer/

[IMCWORTH]

This is a great Idea and easy.

[radz28]

AWESOME!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

[Hyperion]

I don't know if I trust anything that requires a key fob at this point.

Originally Posted by He11bent

Another option

https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart-...p-immobilizer/

[SS_Don]

Originally Posted by Hyperion

I don't know if I trust anything that requires a key fob at this point.

I use the mobilistics and it works great. No issues about the key fob. It only communicates to the relay when you push the button.


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[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by Hyperion

I don't know if I trust anything that requires a key fob at this point.

If you happen to have any issues with the key fob, which I have not, it only takes seconds to swap in a stock relay and you're back on the road.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Hyperion

I don't know if I trust anything that requires a key fob at this point.

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

If you happen to have any issues with the key fob, which I have not, it only takes seconds to swap in a stock relay and you're back on the road.

I think he meant that anything with a key fob can be hacked the same way, not that the fob will stop working. SS_Don gave a great answer, this fob does not communicate continuously and only works at very short distances, so its signal would be rather difficult to capture. The perp would basically have to stand next to your window with their antenna while you're starting the car. Oh, and they would have to know somehow that you have this specific product (if I had one, I'd press the disarm button with the fob still in my pocket, for example).

Another attack vector is an insider threat where someone at the manufacturer (Mobilistics in this case) exfiltrates the information necessary to emulate any fob they make, or perhaps a master key if one exists. At this point, however, it's an anvoidable trust question, if one is unwilling to trust safety device manufacturers, they're on their own...

[Bigredwing]

Originally Posted by jt_1le

This is a great guide, however, I followed the steps, cut the same wire GRN/with a gray stripe, and the car ran with the switch in both positions.

Bad or incorrect switch?