[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by JSH

My shop has had ample opportunity to recommend Eth as my next step, but they have learned to not like it for the reasons cited here. They recommended a 100 shot as my next step, but I'm not sure I have enough hpfp.

Everyone here knows that King is a huge 'E' fan but it's apparently not as easy as he makes it seem.

It's very easy. I haven't had anybody run into issues. I have literally been running it on a SBE LT1 since 2017. Not a single issue.

[Daler]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

You shouldn't run any Ethanol until you have a way to monitor your ethanol % AND learn how to read datalogs PID's that tell you where you stand with the fuel system. I recommend the Fuel-It Bluetooth Ethanol reader to all my clients. It plugs right in the middle of the flex fuel harness and sends the content to an app on your phone via blue tooth. No need to install a gauge. Then make sure your rail pressure stay around 2900 PSI and your injectors pulsewidth in milliseconds stays under 6.0. And 6.0 is near the edge so if its 6.0 in warm weather, you're going to run out of fuel again in the winter. The safe way to go is aim for 5.5ms at peak torque and 5.2ms at redline which gives you room for colder weather. Then datalog in cold weather and make sure you can still handle the E content. If you do it right you will know what the car will handle safely. For example, a bolt on ZL1 with a low side can usually safely run E50 in the winter and E60 in the summer. Adjust for altitude or real real cold weather by adding or subtracting 5% ethanol. This long winded answer is why many shops don't feel like dealing with Ethanol Blends for the customers because MOST people don't take the effort to learn and monitor how to safely run Ethanol.

If you really want to run full pump E and not worry, go with port injection. I used to not like the port offerings but they are getting better and now that I've tuned a few of these its pretty easy. There are a couple of things you can stumble on but once you learn them its easy. When DSX releases his port kit, I imagine its going to get even easier. I'm waiting for the DSX kit for my personal car but I really like the Too High PSI kit.

Will do!! That was definitely a great way of explaining it to someone who’s just getting into the blending aspect of e85. I for one don’t really know how to read data logs but my tuner does and I’ll be sure to let him know to do all of what is listed above. I think it makes more senss to have an app to see the content and have a guage to see the different pressures of fuel. To be honest I think what I’ll do in the colder weather since it’s flex is just run straight 93 and in the warmer weather blend a little e in for some fun. I really only do roll racing every weekend if not every other so having e in the car all the time really isn’t necessary for me. And if I do have e it will most likely be a very low percentage. I did read that you could do full e85 with the upgraded low side which I have but then again that seems to be something that’s like you or someone else said, “the limit” and I don’t want to be at that. My fuel system will be just fine running max e50 in the nice weather days and anything lower than e50 in the colder days.

[CW3SF]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

It's very easy. I haven't had anybody run into issues. I have literally been running it on a SBE LT1 since 2017. Not a single issue.

Flex fuel is the easiest mod to install that I’ve done on my car. KingLT1 tuned it and took car of the tune part. It literally could not be any easier. I spent just a few minutes installing a Bluetooth adapter (Fuel It) on my fuel line and now I can read ethanol content right on my cell phone after I fill the car. So I always know exactly what my ethanol content is. I’ve been using ethanol blend and making about 100 additional whp for several years now and I’ve not had one single issue.

[Daler]

Originally Posted by radz28

Gauges are great (I have an AEM WB and a Aeroforce), but is it reasonable to be watching BOTH of them at WOT at even stock power levels? On the street, I'm not so sure; maybe on the track. I'm just saying they're great tools, but like Jason or Joe (both have said it at some time here at any rate) said - when you start getting out of the injection window, you'll likely be getting into false WB readings, and they'll show rich, when they very are likely lean, because of spraying fuel out of the exhaust, due to timing being too late, and spraying past the exhaust valve opening.

I'm completely advocating for them, but they have to be watched with filtered eyes.



You can get a Banks (which I have, too, that I switched out for an Aeroforce for KNOCK alerts), but, as I said above - I'm not sure if you're going to be watching the gauge at WOT at 100-MPH. Unless you have traction, you'll be sawing away at the steering wheel and probably watching what's going on in front of you. BOTH will register rail pressure, but they'll be jumping around some, so it would probably take a long look to see what the trend might be. As said later, I'd probably set-up IPW, but again, glancing at the gauge at WOT is going to take some luck and care to stay on the road.

There's no reason not to run E', as long as the car is set-up appropriately enough, and it is tuned correctly. If you are paying attention, you'll see who's contributing to this thread (among many others), and I'd consider going to them for calibration needs (PM me if you need more clarity). They can do this stuff without thinking about it. Get your aux' pump installed, and work with someone who knows what they're doing. As already stated - you might consider port injection (TooHighPSI is who I'd recommend, and who I use) for more fueling into the engine if you want to run full E' with what it looks like your new combination is. Spend once - cry once.



E' is not a big deal. No - I'm not close to an expert, but after going through what I have, it doesn't have to be complicated, so long as you have a fuel system that can move enough juice, and enough injector. It's not complicated as much as it is $$$, and it's not too bad now with the options that are out there.



Don't count THPSI out... I don't know anything, but I've read some stuff. No argument as to the high quality of DSX stuff though. I've used them, too, and am pretty happy with what I have/had.

JMHO.

My tuner loves e and meth, I mean literally it’s almost crazy. He definitely knows what he’s doing when it comes to tuning in be general as well as different fuels and like I previously said, he’s the best in my city. One thing is was curious about though that he texted me surprised me. These were his words.

“I don't feel comfortable pushing the envelope on 93 octane ever. I've never been able to get over 700 with just 93 octane on an LT”

“I don't know what stock is, but if it were me I would try to stay close to that. Anywhere between 600 and 700 is as much as 93 octane can handle”

And this was after I told him I was doing the aux pump as well on 93, what do you guys think?

As far as gauges go, someone previously said using the Bluetooth app that can be connected to my DSX flex fuel sensor will be great to see the e content cause I can just go on my phone while filling up and see live what happening. I was initially looking at getting the AEM gauge to see AFR levels but there’s so many that I’m not sure which one to get that will suit my concerns the best. There’s so many different fuel pressures to look at I’m not sure which guage could accommodate that. Should I just get the AEM guage and just look at AFR or should I get a different one that can show me more of the different fuel pressures?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Daler

My tuner loves e and meth, I mean literally it’s almost crazy. He definitely knows what he’s doing when it comes to tuning in be general as well as different fuels and like I previously said, he’s the best in my city. One thing is was curious about though that he texted me surprised me. These were his words.

“I don't feel comfortable pushing the envelope on 93 octane ever. I've never been able to get over 700 with just 93 octane on an LT”

“I don't know what stock is, but if it were me I would try to stay close to that. Anywhere between 600 and 700 is as much as 93 octane can handle”

And this was after I told him I was doing the aux pump as well on 93, what do you guys think?

As far as gauges go, someone previously said using the Bluetooth app that can be connected to my DSX flex fuel sensor will be great to see the e content cause I can just go on my phone while filling up and see live what happening. I was initially looking at getting the AEM gauge to see AFR levels but there’s so many that I’m not sure which one to get that will suit my concerns the best. There’s so many different fuel pressures to look at I’m not sure which guage could accommodate that. Should I just get the AEM guage and just look at AFR or should I get a different one that can show me more of the different fuel pressures?

I'm not sure something isn't lost in the translation he gave you. You can most certainly make more than 700whp on 93 octane, however the LT4 cars do have a 700'ish whp fuel limit that you can't really overcome without more fueling or methanol. Maybe that's what he's referring to.

The fact that he doesn't know this is worrisome as a tuner, unless something was lost in his statements. I've seen up to of 875whp on 93 octane on an LT4 and that is pushing it. I've seen 850whp done quite safely on 93 octane.

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by Daler

I did read that you could do full e85 with the upgraded low side

I don't know where you read this, but I disagree with this. A bone stock LT4 car, even with a low side, trying to run E80 will tank the fuel pressure and run out of spray window. Maybe if you're at 10,000 feet of elevation you can.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

I don't know where you read this, but I disagree with this. A bone stock LT4 car, even with a low side, trying to run E80 will tank the fuel pressure and run out of spray window. Maybe if you're at 10,000 feet of elevation you can.

DA 10,000 occurs up here occasionally

[Daler]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

I don't know where you read this, but I disagree with this. A bone stock LT4 car, even with a low side, trying to run E80 will tank the fuel pressure and run out of spray window. Maybe if you're at 10,000 feet of elevation you can.

It was a video made by LMR and he says they just had a low side with a flex system that could do either full e85 or 93. Maybe he meant to say blend because I was also surprised you could do full e on just a low side

[Nimair.ZL1]

Originally Posted by Daler

It was a video made by LMR and he says they just had a low side with a flex system that could do either full e85 or 93. Maybe he meant to say blend because I was also surprised you could do full e on just a low side

I believe that was with a cam with a 38% fuel lobe

[BunnyBoy]

So can you do full E with Cam and lowside ? probably less than stock boost level tho?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Daler

It was a video made by LMR and he says they just had a low side with a flex system that could do either full e85 or 93. Maybe he meant to say blend because I was also surprised you could do full e on just a low side

LMR uses a cam with a bigger fuel lobe as Nimair.ZL1 mentioned.

A bone stock LT4 with stock fuel system will tolerate about E70.

With a low side upgrade, you can do bolt-ons(Headers, CAI, TB), X port, and run E50-60 depending on DA.

If you add a cam with a 38% lobe that extends fuel headroom up another 80-100whp. 760-780whp on E50-60.

To go further then you need to upgrade HPFP and Injectors or Go Port Injection.

The only way you might get away with Full pump E(E75-80) on stock high side, is if you did a 38% Cam, headers, cai, lowside, and run stock boost with no supercharger porting.

[Nimair.ZL1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

LMR uses a cam with a bigger fuel lobe as Nimair.ZL1 mentioned.

A bone stock LT4 with stock fuel system will tolerate about E70.

With a low side upgrade, you can do bolt-ons(Headers, CAI, TB), X port, and run E50-60 depending on DA.

If you add a cam with a 38% lobe that extends fuel headroom up another 80-100whp. 760-780whp on E50-60.

To go further then you need to upgrade HPFP and Injectors or Go Port Injection.

The only way you might get away with Full pump E(E75-80) on stock high side, is if you did a 38% Cam, headers, cai, lowside, and run stock boost with no supercharger porting.

Port injection is also an option. This way it won't require bigger injectors or a HPFP upgrade. Is this correct?

[Nimair.ZL1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

LMR uses a cam with a bigger fuel lobe as Nimair.ZL1 mentioned.

A bone stock LT4 with stock fuel system will tolerate about E70.

With a low side upgrade, you can do bolt-ons(Headers, CAI, TB), X port, and run E50-60 depending on DA.

If you add a cam with a 38% lobe that extends fuel headroom up another 80-100whp. 760-780whp on E50-60.

To go further then you need to upgrade HPFP and Injectors or Go Port Injection.

The only way you might get away with Full pump E(E75-80) on stock high side, is if you did a 38% Cam, headers, cai, lowside, and run stock boost with no supercharger porting.

Sorry just saw you mentioned port. Ignore the post I made above lol

[BunnyBoy]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The only way you might get away with Full pump E(E75-80) on stock high side, is if you did a 38% Cam, headers, cai, lowside, and run stock boost with no supercharger porting.

Whats the power level on that?