[Rnovrit]

Interesting info here

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by The Chief (tm)

I had been wondering this EXACT same thing; couldn't one route the "new" starter button into the center console, under the lid, and try one's best to make it NOT look like a starter button? And have it be underneath the USB ports (with stuff plugged into those), plus other junk around in there?

Because if the goal is to add just enough difficulty to convince the ne'er-do-well to move on to another target, then I wouldn't guess that said miscreant would think -- when the car didn't respond to the starter -- that it was something this "simple". And he sure wouldn't think that there was a real starter button hidden down in the console.

Heck, if burying it in the console meant "too much work" to start it every time, I'm sure that any number of the really smart people on here could route the starter to one of the HomeLink buttons (if you have them), or even to rig something inside the 12V compartment, under the lid.

This is all way beyond my own ability, but I would love to hear if anyone tries it, because I'm currently using my OBD for power to my Valentine 1 and would otherwise pay someone to rig up something of this nature.

Like me, you have likely read a fair number of stories about Camaros being stolen where the OBD port is used to access / control certain functions of the car as part of the process. Once you have full access to the on-board computers, what's so magical about the Start Button any more? Why couldn't the same "signal" be sent directly via the OBD from whatever is connected?

[paradigm]

Originally Posted by ember1205

Like me, you have likely read a fair number of stories about Camaros being stolen where the OBD port is used to access / control certain functions of the car as part of the process. Once you have full access to the on-board computers, what's so magical about the Start Button any more? Why couldn't the same "signal" be sent directly via the OBD from whatever is connected?

Agreed. I do not think simply relocating the starter button is the answer.

Thieve disables any immobilizers via the obdii port, and worst case will push start the car and they are gone. Push it, pop the clutch and out.

[wintertopdown]

remove the computer?

[Deacon Blues]

Originally Posted by MakCamaro

Someone posted this in another thread. I sent them a couple of questions and if it fits on my 2020 ZL1, I will give it a try:

https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart-...p-immobilizer/

Just wanted to see if you had any follow-up on this, I've also read some folks on the Camaro reddit have been using this. It would be my preferred option. Has it been working well so far? Did you use the starter relay or the fuel pump relay?

[paradigm]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Just wanted to see if you had any follow-up on this, I've also read some folks on the Camaro reddit have been using this. It would be my preferred option. Has it been working well so far? Did you use the starter relay or the fuel pump relay?

I am waiting on mine to arrive, ill likely put it on the fuel pump relay. This way they aren't dumping fuel into the engine trying to start it.

[Mark114]

Originally Posted by Deacon Blues

Just wanted to see if you had any follow-up on this, I've also read some folks on the Camaro reddit have been using this. It would be my preferred option. Has it been working well so far? Did you use the starter relay or the fuel pump relay?

I have the starter relay as my 2016 2SS doesn’t have a fuel pump relay. It looks like the fuel pump relay was added in the 2017 models. It seems to work fine, but my Camaro is in storage for the winter and I haven’t driven it much since installing it.

[RayKinStL]

Originally Posted by paradigm

I am waiting on mine to arrive, ill likely put it on the fuel pump relay. This way they aren't dumping fuel into the engine trying to start it.

I've never seen this before. So you just go into the fuse box, take out the starter or fuel pump fuse, replace it with this, and you have to hit a button or that fuse won't start? There is no other electrical work you need to do? This thing gets its power from the car? What is the possibility this thing craps out leaving you stranded?

[paradigm]

It’s a relay not a fuse. Controls, not protection.

That you leave the fuel pump / ignition/ starter fuse in place and replace their respective relay (your choice) with this relay. This relay will break the circuit for one of those 3 operations.

The remote for the relay operates a low current switching circuit.

Im not worried about it failing, or maybe ill hide the factory one somewhere as a spare…

[The Chief (tm)]

'Digm,

A few posts ago, you wrote:

"Thieve disables any immobilizers via the obdii port, and worst case will push start the car and they are gone. Push it, pop the clutch and out."

But now you are going to try out the Immobilizer (if that's the "trade name") regardless. Am I understanding this correctly to mean that, by choosing to do this, you expect that you will prevent any relay attacks, but you grant that a well-schooled OBD-based thief *could* bypass the immobilizer?

[SS_Don]

As I understand it, with the immobilizer the circuit (fuel pump or starter) is open and not closed until you hit a button on the key fob. So it doesn't matter what they do via the OBD II port because a circuit is open and the car can't be started if the starter or fuel pump doesn't have power.

[dfxrte]

there are immobilizer kits you can install and hide deep in the dash which deactivates the push to start button. has a remote you activate the car with and have 12 seconds after activation to start the car.

same company also makes an obd2 immobilizer but the company confirmed you cannot disable the immobilizer to the push to start button via obd2 access

[paradigm]

Originally Posted by The Chief (tm)

'Digm,

A few posts ago, you wrote:

"Thieve disables any immobilizers via the obdii port, and worst case will push start the car and they are gone. Push it, pop the clutch and out."

But now you are going to try out the Immobilizer (if that's the "trade name") regardless. Am I understanding this correctly to mean that, by choosing to do this, you expect that you will prevent any relay attacks, but you grant that a well-schooled OBD-based thief *could* bypass the immobilizer?

What I should have written was that thieves will bypass factory immobilizer via obdii hack. They wont bypass the relay kill.

The key is to have multiple layers of security.

Disable obdii port, keep fake one with 12v or reverse polarity to hopefully blow anything plugged into it.
Kill switch - best way would be the wired method, tapping off the control circuit away from fuse box where no one can see the tap and confusing a thief
Move starter and keep fake one in stock place (this would be highly irritating for me on a daily basis)
Faraday bags on the fobs
Car alarm.


More and more, I feel the IGLA in place of a kill switch would be the most secure, along with the rest of items.

[dfxrte]

Originally Posted by paradigm

What I should have written was that thieves will bypass factory immobilizer via obdii hack. They wont bypass the relay kill.

The key is to have multiple layers of security.

Disable obdii port, keep fake one with 12v or reverse polarity to hopefully blow anything plugged into it.
Kill switch - best way would be the wired method, tapping off the control circuit away from fuse box where no one can see the tap and confusing a thief
Move starter and keep fake one in stock place (this would be highly irritating for me on a daily basis)
Faraday bags on the fobs
Car alarm.


More and more, I feel the IGLA in place of a kill switch would be the most secure, along with the rest of items.

check this out -- disabled PTS button with no relocation required




Also IGLA to me seems too intrusive to the ECU, i don't know, maybe I'm wrong