[UberTong]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

UberTong... My quest for traction led me to install ALL of the rear end BMR stuff minus the sway bar... and YES, that along with a proper alignment REALLY helps the car plant, and track straight! Well worth the investment. As far as traction goes, i was skeptical that the R888R's would hook in 2nd, with my torque level, but i can say on most streets, with heat in the tires, spins slightly, then hooks by the top of 2nd gear...

Bad roads, or cold tires clearly dont hook even in 3rd... I went the MAX size on the rears for an extra 1" of width and I would NOT change a thing. The noise does not bother me, perhaps because the tires are competing with the over-driven blower and exhaust.

Hope that helps.

Brother! THANK YOU and that is one absolutely gorgeous ZLE! Wow, thanks for taking the time to write that out. I guess the BMR stuff does work on the ZL1 afterall.

[UberTong]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

To be clear, I wasn't saying you are a bot. There was another post above my post from what was clearly a bot. That has since been deleted by a moderator so I deleted my post, too, because it no longer made any sense and potentially looked like I was calling you a bot.

That said, a little searching does go a long way. There are many posts about this from this year even. Certainly not required. You can do the forum however you choose.

Ahh, all good man. Yes, I can search and I have. But, call me old school or a time waster, I like to talk to people and not just retrieve data. All the data I would ever want or need is on the old interwebz. Thank you sir, I appreciate you!

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by UberTong

Thanks for the answer man, I appreciate it. Personally, I'd rather interact with someone on here than just search the forum. I can search google too, but there is nothing like real, current information and interacting with another human. Things change, tires change, conditions and pricing change too. I'm not a bot. I love the old forum trolls "SEARCH FOR IT, THESE POSTS HAVE EXISTED PREVIOUSLY". It takes just as long to write that as it does to comment, hey this has been my experience. Imho.

Same here, brother, I am not tired of responding to similar questions again and again, because I know there are people at the other end, we aren't simply info processing bio-bots.

Alas, I haven't been able to personally try the Nittos yet, hence my deferral to others in the forum.

Originally Posted by UberTong

Brother! THANK YOU and that is one absolutely gorgeous ZLE! Wow, thanks for taking the time to write that out. I guess the BMR stuff does work on the ZL1 afterall.

Originally Posted by UberTong

Is this the kit you are referring to?

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...643&superpro=0

This is not the rear cradle lockout kit (that I incidentally also have and am VERY satisfied with), here is the proper link: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/index....productid=1635. It should work on the ZL1 just fine.

The alternative to this is the full ZL1 1LE aluminum bushing kit from GM (see here), but that kit, if even available these days, is more expensive, much more tricky to install and might increase your NVH. The BMR lockout kit will give you 90% of the stiffness advantage (check out their underbody cam video).

[JBones81]

Originally Posted by UberTong

I've wondered about the BMR stuff as well. Do you feel like it really helps keep the car planted under WOT?

I don't track the car or anything but definitely the car feels so much more stable just driving around town and getting on it now and then. From the factory, on the non-1LE models, the rear is so sloppy and unpredictable. On the advice of the tech at BMR, I did:

A.Bushing kit, differential lockout, aluminum.
B. Bushing kit, rear cradle, lockout.
C. Cradle brace, front of rear cradle.
D. Lower trailing arms, non-adjustable, poly bushings.
E. Upper trailing arms, non-adjustable, poly bushings.
F. Upper control arms, non-adjustable, poly bushings

and then an alignment. I bet if I just swapped to stickier tires, too, this would be perfect - more than enough traction for the stock power level.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by JBones81

I don't track the car or anything but definitely the car feels so much more stable just driving around town and getting on it now and then. From the factory, on the non-1LE models, the rear is so sloppy and unpredictable. On the advice of the tech at BMR, I did:

A.Bushing kit, differential lockout, aluminum.
B. Bushing kit, rear cradle, lockout.
C. Cradle brace, front of rear cradle.
D. Lower trailing arms, non-adjustable, poly bushings.
E. Upper trailing arms, non-adjustable, poly bushings.
F. Upper control arms, non-adjustable, poly bushings

and then an alignment. I bet if I just swapped to stickier tires, too, this would be perfect - more than enough traction for the stock power level.

I’m not trying to hijack but I was thinking of adding most of this kit along with my cradle lockout, my only question is, have you noticed any of the new parts squeaking after the install?

[JBones81]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

I’m not trying to hijack but I was thinking of adding most of this kit along with my cradle lockout, my only question is, have you noticed any of the new parts squeaking after the install?

It's not bad, but you will definitely notice more noises coming from the rear when you're driving very slowly, or over bumps, for example thru a parking lot.

[Kerry]

Originally Posted by JBones81

It's not bad, but you will definitely notice more noises coming from the rear when you're driving very slowly, or over bumps, for example thru a parking lot.

wd40 is ur friend. NEXT!

[Owl3]

Originally Posted by Kerry

wd40 is ur friend. NEXT!

WD-40 is never a good long-term solution. Try Tri-flow

[JBones81]

Originally Posted by Kerry

wd40 is ur friend. NEXT!

It's not really squeaking, per se...more like clanking and clunking

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Owl3

WD-40 is never a good long-term solution. Try Tri-flow

Or Drislide, it works very well for me. I use it to lubricate the NPP valves, and it lasts much-much longer than WD-40 on household door hinges, for example.

[WhiteMale]

YOu will have an increase in NVH but only if your install is foul will you get noises that you need to remedy. The rod ends BMR uses are teflon coated, if that helps. But my problem was their sway bar that has a bit missing from the install. It's not enough to set an adjustable link to the OE length and just press play. I would have the instructions read, yes, OE length as a start point, but then maintain the bar arms parallel or level or close to it, and RAISE the links is/as needed and keep the link and arm geometry at or close as you can to 90 degrees.
I had alot of noisy clunky crud in the rear of the car with the links short and the bar arm pulled down to the link. Also, they make no mention of the bar needing to move freely in the frame mounts. If the mount is so tight that the bar cant move in it's arc, you'll have a bad problem. They need to address that and that using a washer under the lower bolt can free it up.


Of my sway bar, the cradle lockout, and the front cradle braces, those problems were 99% of the BS NVH I had on the install. Fixed everything and the performance is greatly inproved, as expected. Rear stays planted on WOT pulls.

[Revalot]

From my understanding when you want the biggest, baddest tire period there's only one way to go, Mickey Thompson drags radials SS street tire for straight line, capable of 8 seconds in the quarter and will hook in low 50 degree weather or lower. According to shops like LMR Houston, I'm getting a set for my chevelle myself. I don't know if they make a 20 inch tire, but a 18 inch is available.

[UberTong]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Same here, brother, I am not tired of responding to similar questions again and again, because I know there are people at the other end, we aren't simply info processing bio-bots.

Alas, I haven't been able to personally try the Nittos yet, hence my deferral to others in the forum.




This is not the rear cradle lockout kit (that I incidentally also have and am VERY satisfied with), here is the proper link: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/index....productid=1635. It should work on the ZL1 just fine.

The alternative to this is the full ZL1 1LE aluminum bushing kit from GM (see here), but that kit, if even available these days, is more expensive, much more tricky to install and might increase your NVH. The BMR lockout kit will give you 90% of the stiffness advantage (check out their underbody cam video).

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it brother. Beautiful car and I'm grateful for the advice.

Does yours put that power down pretty well?

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by UberTong

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it brother. Beautiful car and I'm grateful for the advice.

Does yours put that power down pretty well?

Yes it does, although only from a roll, I have ease slowly into the throttle from a dig (because I have street tires).

It's scary fast, just a little bit more than what I feel I can easily "tame", which is exactly what I wanted---the moment I stop respecting the car's power and let my guard down is when I'll make a stupid mistake. A lesson I unfortunately learned the hard way three years ago. In other words, I know my place and enjoy the HECK out of this amazing car with my current mods.