[CJZ-SS1LE]

So just wanted to know what the difficulty is with changing the heads with engine in the car on a 22 1LE? Havent played with LT1s much but very familiar with LS1s an they were pretty easy. Thanks guys

[jlaudio11]

Even easier, theres a lot more room to work under the hood of a 6th gen compared to a 4th gen, specifically width between the strut towers and length from core support to cowl. I pulled my engine out the top without even removing radiator or fan.

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Yeah im just wanting to swap the heads to my ported ones and wanted to plan for time is all.

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Well passanger side is all done and reassembled just taking a break for some food and then do the drivers side wasnt to bad started at 10 took few breaks had to run to the store and had to redo the head bolts on passanger side. Pic is the new ported head on the passanger side n stocker on the drivers side

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

After pulling my motor to do a H/C swap + oil pump... I can't imagine trying to do that in the car without a lift. Build thread here with pics if it might help...

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...hlight=PHASE.2

If i was only going to do the heads, I would likely do it "in car"... but i would not be looking forward to all that strain on my back...

Happy wrenching!

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Yeah the back is feeling it today thats for sure!! Shoulders were the real pain. If i ever meet the nimrod that made TTY bolts im goin to knock em out, I shoulda just went with arp studs haha. But kept thinkjng i was going to break the bolt. 59 ft lbs then 90 degree theninternal bolts 40 more degrees and external bolts 60. Man that was a wkout

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by CJZ-SS1LE

Yeah the back is feeling it today thats for sure!! Shoulders were the real pain. If i ever meet the nimrod that made TTY bolts im goin to knock em out, I shoulda just went with arp studs haha. But kept thinkjng i was going to break the bolt. 59 ft lbs then 90 degree theninternal bolts 40 more degrees and external bolts 60. Man that was a wkout

I feel your pain... that portion was challenging on the engine stand also. I had to brace the motor with some 4x4's and have my son hold the stand to prevent from moving. I also felt like something was going to break :( ... I spoke to TED at JRE on by build and he prefers factory TTY for mild to mid builds becuase the factory bolts have a little "give" under pressure, where studs can cause issues... (that is a bad recollection, but you get the idea)

I was much more upset about the (1) allen wrench that NO ONE has a size for :(

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Funny i found the tool for it at oriellys right down the street. But i hope they were the same torque sequence because there wasnt anything stating anything different.

[flyinmach1]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

I feel your pain... that portion was challenging on the engine stand also. I had to brace the motor with some 4x4's and have my son hold the stand to prevent from moving. I also felt like something was going to break :( ... I spoke to TED at JRE on by build and he prefers factory TTY for mild to mid builds becuase the factory bolts have a little "give" under pressure, where studs can cause issues... (that is a bad recollection, but you get the idea)

I was much more upset about the (1) allen wrench that NO ONE has a size for :(

I'm still reading over your build, SOCAL.M6.ZLE, but wow your pictures and write up are awesome so far! Brings back memories of my build over the winter of 2022. Did cam, lifters, rebuilt heads, all fueling and added Maggie 2650 plus headers, all from JRE. They sent me OEM head bolts but I thought no way I'm using those. Bought ARP studs and never looked back. Oh and did it all without pulling the engine. Probably not the smartest move, but a year and a half later and around 6k miles running strong. Ted is great and his tunes are even better!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by flyinmach1

I'm still reading over your build, SOCAL.M6.ZLE, but wow your pictures and write up are awesome so far! Brings back memories of my build over the winter of 2022. Did cam, lifters, rebuilt heads, all fueling and added Maggie 2650 plus headers, all from JRE. They sent me OEM head bolts but I thought no way I'm using those. Bought ARP studs and never looked back. Oh and did it all without pulling the engine. Probably not the smartest move, but a year and a half later and around 6k miles running strong. Ted is great and his tunes are even better!

Thanks for the feedback! I agree, TED is great, and the job could be done in car... but I didnt like the idea of leaning over for days on end, and really wanted to better access to the motor, since I was doing the oil pump also. I am so happy I pulled the motor, and I am keeping the cherry picker around just in case i need to do it again

[oldman]

I think there are no issues with on the car swap. The rub is most people want to do a DoD delete and change cams, I found that easier to pull the radiator front clip and A/C (easy to recharge). I've also pulled the engine for a heads / cam and it is about the same amount of work. Oh I forgot, I did have to drop the pan on the cam change, don't remember why (getting old). If I had a lift' I drop the whole cradle. I have a M6 and that dual pack clutch is heck of long, I had to take some stuff off the trans to lower it. So IMO it is harder to pull the engine from the top on a M6.

[Dynamical]

Hey CJZ-SS1LE, How's the build coming along? Any updates?

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Dynamical

Hey CJZ-SS1LE, How's the build coming along? Any updates?

Sorry brother all done took bout a day tsking my time. Those tty bolts suck but went ok. I made sure i cleaned ea bolt hole, tapped it, and then cleaned again with brakleen. My ported heads got me just over 36 rwhp so well worth it.

Also just got done with my t93 tcm install and tune. Thats been a huge difference in tieing it all together. Think ill leave it alone for a bit an enjoy til i get bored an want more, so maybe a week haha. I am looking at a 200 progressive shot.