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Old 10-29-2018, 04:14 PM   #1
Exgermanowner
 
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TTY Alignment Hardware Swap

Anyone measure the TTY hardware you are supposed to replace every alignment and source ARP stuff?
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:17 PM   #2
Pollock
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I just reuse the TTY bolts like a lot of us. No issues.
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:24 PM   #3
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not again...just reuse the stock bolts. There are a few people that contend replacement is a must but I disagree. Once the bolts have been torqued to yield and reused, a simple retorque is adequate and safe. Anyone ever see one of these bolts break? Yeah, that's what I thought.
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Old 10-30-2018, 07:40 AM   #4
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Thanks for the opinion guys, but my question wasn't the merits of reusing the OEM hardware. My question was if anyone has already done the research for a permanent stronger solution. You know me SZL1, I'm not new to this, I just prefer putting an extra couple of bucks into areas of the car that can potentially save my ass vs being "the first" to have a bolt snap at 120+ bouncing off the curbing in the uphill esses at VIR.
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Old 10-30-2018, 05:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exgermanowner View Post
Thanks for the opinion guys, but my question wasn't the merits of reusing the OEM hardware. My question was if anyone has already done the research for a permanent stronger solution. You know me SZL1, I'm not new to this, I just prefer putting an extra couple of bucks into areas of the car that can potentially save my ass vs being "the first" to have a bolt snap at 120+ bouncing off the curbing in the uphill esses at VIR.
BMR pieces are a nice upgrade and I plan to swap some of the flimsy stamped steel suspension parts after this weekend at VIR. Yeah...I know it is you K..
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'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 10-31-2018, 09:21 AM   #6
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To the OP: Any quality 12.9 grade fastener will be perfectly suited. You'll have to weld an OEM eccentic washers to the head of the new bolt as the OEM fastener has the eccentric washer integrated into the head. Unless you had your own custom hardware made, that is.

The concept of TTY fasteners in an adjustable alignment application isn't logical whatsoever. If GM was serious about it, they either wouldn't torque the alignment bolts at the factory or include new ones for when the car is PDI'd. I have yet to see any evidence of the factory getting any Camaro alignment spot-on, so if the factory can't or won't get it right, why torque it down there and ruin the only chance for success?

Just in case it helps, the handful of times I've realigned my car, I've only set the bolts to a torque, not adding angle to try to yield them again. The second part is asking for trouble.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
BMR pieces are a nice upgrade and I plan to swap some of the flimsy stamped steel suspension parts after this weekend at VIR. Yeah...I know it is you K..
Just know those "flimsy" stock pieces are designed to allow free suspension articulation by flexing in one axis but not others, since the kinematics move in a complicated way on multiple axes. They're also designed to be the fuse in a crash, versus the unibody. If you want to swap in aftermarket pieces, be sure to also change to pillow ball pivots to not bind the suspension. Also note the OEM bushings are part of the dynamic wheel rate, so you'll have to retune the springs and anti-roll bars to restore the wheel rate.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:36 PM   #7
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OK between you and SZL1, you've trashed my question/idea. Thanks a lot!

Kidding aside, doesn't sound like the pursuit is worth the effort at this point.
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Old 06-23-2023, 08:26 PM   #8
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what I'm not hearing is if it makes any difference to replace the crappy gm bolts with something harder like SS?
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Old 06-24-2023, 05:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaronlunada@gmail.com View Post
what I'm not hearing is if it makes any difference to replace the crappy gm bolts with something harder like SS?
"Harder" isn't necessarily better. Stronger vs the TTY, yes. Metric grade 10.9 alloy steel would be the type of bolt that would be correct. 12.9 is stronger more but that would not be required. It was previously mentioned about never seeing any of the TTY bolts break. The first delinquency would be from a loss of clamp load allowing the eccentric to slip and lose the desired alignment. A yielded bolt will continue to stretch the more it is tightened. It may break then if it is a clueless tech who is doing the tightening.

One solution is to use SPL adjustable toe rods with their lockout bolt kit. That solves half the TTY bolt issue plus they make toe adjustments alot easier.

AFAIK, nobody makes a replacement eccentric bolt that would satisfy the lower control arm (camber) adjustment. I modified and installed a non-TTY Gen5 lower control arm eccentric bolt on my Gen6 but I want to pull it and examine it before I deem it successful. My alignment has held since I installed it last summer and the bolt itself has not moved.

Once any bolt has been yielded, or in other words, permanently stretched, it will not have the desired clamp load. Reuse at your own risk.
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