[GA SS]

Originally Posted by hashtag

Uh? May I have a part number?

ACDelco UPF64R GM #12674698

[Gunkk]

The UPF64R has smaller flow though holes than the stock PF64. So use at your own risk.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lter-pics.html

[GA SS]

Originally Posted by hashtag

Do not mean to hijack this thread. Quick question. What brandmagnetic magnets do people in the forms usually use for the oil pan?

I have a Gold Plug brand and just purchased a Dimple because it has the rubber washer built in like the factory one does.
Dimple M12x1.75x21(not installed yet)

[NOGO17Z]

Have not experienced this on my Camaro, but my Gen 2 CTS-V oil pump failed at about 18,000 miles. Car was modded a bit and I had to eat that bottom end rebuild. I learned to keep cars stock unless you have a money tree out back, which I do not. Sucks that dealer is giving the runaround for a lousy catch can, but those fools will make every effort to deny rather than the right thing. Good luck on getting this resolved under warranty.

[hashtag]

Originally Posted by GA SS

ACDelco UPF64R GM #12674698

Word. Just bought one on eBay for $10 shipped. Very appreciative for the information.

[Boost or bust]

Originally Posted by carbonguy

1st post; couldn't resist registering after seeing this thread about oil pump failure. I see that I'm not alone.

Experienced complete oil pump failure in my Black 2018 ZL1 in my driveway at about 2200 miles. Was pulling it back in garage after a wash when all the warnings went off. Could not believe what was happening. Flatbedded to local dealer by the most expert tow truck guy I've ever seen.

Was without car for almost 2 weeks but dealer took their time. My car and I were treated like royalty; could not ask for a better service experience. Plus I got some freebies.

Car runs great and I'm happy. But seriously Chevrolet, an oil pump failure in one of your "Halo" cars?

Carbonguy: really sorry you also had this happen. Sounds like your mileage and circumstances are very similar to mine when mine failed. I talk to the shop foreman who did my oil pan to placement and he said that a solution although a bad one of my opinion would be for Chevrolet to reprogram the computer such that the internal relief valve does not stay in a position to build up so much pressure for so long . Part of the housing is what broke due to the high pressure I’m guessing that Chevrolet would need to source a new oil pump will have the manufacture beef it up . Whatever the solution there’s going to be many many more of us experiencing these failures before and if Chevrolet decides to address it . I’m just hoping those of us who’ve had a failure won’t have another reoccurrence of the same .

[AspiringCarGuy]

Sorry for the delay in replying... Got back Friday night without incident. Took it real easy- lots of lazy touring on country highways in 6th gear with cruise control on. No further problems with the car so far. Checked the oil when I got home after 280 miles. It was right at the top of the dipstick. No apparent issues- no leaks, no strange noises. It runs as well as it did before the incident. I hope this is the end of it. I'll schedule another track day towards the end of summer or early fall- see if I can't break it again. I hope it is a case of a defective pump (metallurgical issue?) as opposed to a design flaw where the pump is simply not up to the task. I wonder if using the heavier 40 weight oil had anything to do with it, even though it's recommended by the manual for track duty. Time will tell. Thanks all for the helpful replies.

[ZL14ME]

Originally Posted by GA SS

I have a Gold Plug brand and just purchased a Dimple because it has the rubber washer built in like the factory one does.
Dimple M12x1.75x21(not installed yet)

I also used the Dimple. And just for fun I tried the strength test with my framing hammer like they do on their website. It works, strong magnet. Went wth the super black hole magnets for the filter, too.

[Boost or bust]

Originally Posted by AspiringCarGuy

Sorry for the delay in replying... Got back Friday night without incident. Took it real easy- lots of lazy touring on country highways in 6th gear with cruise control on. No further problems with the car so far. Checked the oil when I got home after 280 miles. It was right at the top of the dipstick. No apparent issues- no leaks, no strange noises. It runs as well as it did before the incident. I hope this is the end of it. I'll schedule another track day towards the end of summer or early fall- see if I can't break it again. I hope it is a case of a defective pump (metallurgical issue?) as opposed to a design flaw where the pump is simply not up to the task. I wonder if using the heavier 40 weight oil had anything to do with it, even though it's recommended by the manual for track duty. Time will tell. Thanks all for the helpful replies.

Unfortunately, this is not the case. So many of us have now had pump failures, I’d say it is a design flaw. It will happen again and again. THose who habwnot had I thought happen....well, be prepared. The routine goes like this:
1. Dash light low pressure warning. 2. Flatbed to Chevy Andy pick up loaner. 3. Wait 2 weeks for completed repair. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

[Alain]

Thinking about getting one of those magnetic drain plugs !! found one on ebay for $29. Good price?

O.P. i'm glad your car is up and running again. I would hate to have to deal with that nightmare.

[Nitronut]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

The UPF64R has smaller flow though holes than the stock PF64. So use at your own risk.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lter-pics.html

The UPF64R has more holes then the PF64, so it equals out.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by Nitronut

The UPF64R has more holes then the PF64, so it equals out.

The 64R also has a higher bypass psi which shouldn't be used on the LT4. Which means a high psi is needed before oil is sent through and back to the engine.

[Camfab]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

The 64R also has a higher bypass psi which shouldn't be used on the LT4. Which means a high psi is needed before oil is sent through and back to the engine.

Not sure what you’re talking about. As I know it the bypass is designed to allow the oil in the filter to literally by pass the filter in the event of an oil filter being plugged up. I know nothing about the idiosyncrasies of the LT4, however what you’re saying sounds completely off. Having a higher bypass pressure point would mean that the bypass would be less likely to open up until a situation occurred that may warrant the need. As an fyi, my old Viper ACR had no bypass, therefore extreme cold operation was not permitted unless the oil was warmed up. The flip side is that you’ll never have a situation where you’re pumping unfiltered oil through the block. I’d always prefer no bypass as I keep fresh oil in all my cars and service ahead of schedule, additionally I live in a temperate area where hot is the norm. Like I said, I don’t know anything about LT4 oiling other than the fact that Chevrolet seems to have dropped the ball yet again.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by Camfab

Not sure what you’re talking about. As I know it the bypass is designed to allow the oil in the filter to literally by pass the filter in the event of an oil filter being plugged up. I know nothing about the idiosyncrasies of the LT4, however what you’re saying sounds completely off. Having a higher bypass pressure point would mean that the bypass would be less likely to open up until a situation occurred that may warrant the need. As an fyi, my old Viper ACR had no bypass, therefore extreme cold operation was not permitted unless the oil was warmed up. The flip side is that you’ll never have a situation where you’re pumping unfiltered oil through the block. I’d always prefer no bypass as I keep fresh oil in all my cars and service ahead of schedule, additionally I live in a temperate area where hot is the norm. Like I said, I don’t know anything about LT4 oiling other than the fact that Chevrolet seems to have dropped the ball yet again.

Pretty much what I said in other words. The bypass helps the engine not starve for oil when it is needed. Thats why GM says the PF64 is recommended for the LT4 (Z06, CTS-V and ZL1, not sure about the BLackwing's) since it has a much lower bypass PSI rating. Which is around 22 vs the 34 or so the UPF64 and UPF64R are set it. Since this a road course car with street manners.

GM only dropped the ball with LT4 oil pump failing in the 2017-2018 (certain build dates) ZL1s, with the very random 2019 and 2020 models as well.

The oil filter (PF64) itself is solid and hasn't contributed to any oil pump failures.