[Shawnqa800720]

Hi All,

I am planning on getting Camber plates installed this season and I have a simple question. I plan on changing alignment for track days vs. daily driving, and I drive to and from track, so I plan on changing camber at the track.

Does the camber plate adjustment impact any of the other alignment specs?

Another way to ask is, do I need to get it aligned each time I change the camber plate setting between track and daily?

[SHessler]

Changing the camber will change your toe-in/out.

There have been a few folks with threads on finding the perfect setting that lets them have acceptable toe with both their street and track camber plate settings.

I believe no one has found one, the toe moves too much.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Shawnqa800720

Hi All,

I am planning on getting Camber plates installed this season and I have a simple question. I plan on changing alignment for track days vs. daily driving, and I drive to and from track, so I plan on changing camber at the track.

Does the camber plate adjustment impact any of the other alignment specs?

Another way to ask is, do I need to get it aligned each time I change the camber plate setting between track and daily?

Actually, you DONT have to change your settings from track to street alignment if you run conservative TOE IN TOE OUT settings. I use very aggressive camber settings as specified below but when I change out to my street tires (Michelin PS4S ) I run them at 40 PSI air pressure and THAT along with the TOE settings seen below makes those tires live to about 20-25K miles. It also helps that I run a square setup and I can rotate them. I run these settings ALL THE TIME.

[WhiteMale]

ya you don't need to worry about street and track camber or making changes, as noted, each time you adjust camber it will wreck your toe +/-. You can run "track" camber on the street without an issue.

It's toe that will destroy your tires, not camber.

[Shawnqa800720]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Actually, you DONT have to change your settings from track to street alignment if you run conservative TOE IN TOE OUT settings. I use very aggressive camber settings as specified below but when I change out to my street tires (Michelin PS4S ) I run them at 40 PSI air pressure and THAT along with the TOE settings seen below makes those tires live to about 20-25K miles. It also helps that I run a square setup and I can rotate them. I run these settings ALL THE TIME.

I know that when I was running toe that wasn't dead neutral I had significant "pulling" on acceleration - some threads here referred to it as wobble. This was more in the rear than the front though, and I was only running the allowable camber without plates at the time. I assume the blend of toe you are recommending and that aggressive camber will "cancel" and yield an overall neutral feel.

Do you feel any similar issues (I assume not since you're tracking the car enough and wouldn't tolerate that feel from the car). It's the only concern I have in moving away from neutral toe.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Shawnqa800720

I know that when I was running toe that wasn't dead neutral I had significant "pulling" on acceleration - some threads here referred to it as wobble. This was more in the rear than the front though, and I was only running the allowable camber without plates at the time. I assume the blend of toe you are recommending and that aggressive camber will "cancel" and yield an overall neutral feel.

Do you feel any similar issues (I assume not since you're tracking the car enough and wouldn't tolerate that feel from the car). It's the only concern I have in moving away from neutral toe.

Well I am certainly no suspension SAVANT but the guy I use to set the car up at DOGHOUSE PERFOMANCE IS (Adam Poland). He was the VERY first one to mention to me for instance that I could run the same alignment settings on street and track.

The idea behind use at least SOME toe in and toe out was to assist the car in the area of MORE response in terms of TURN-IN and TURN-OUT (exit). These settings will help keep the rear planted BETTER. It also makes the steering MORE responsive.

The car is ABSOLUTELY neutral in the handling area which was also the reasoning behind using a SQUARE tire/wheel set up. He also suggested I use HIGHER air pressure on my street tire set up (40 PSI) to help counteract some of the effects of running a very aggressive camber set up.

Since I run SLICKS at the track, they LIKE as much negative camber as you can throw at them. I typically run 23 PSI in rear and 24 PSI in the front (COLD PRESSURES).