[travislambert]

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

I should have it saturday, I'll let you all know how it looks. From the tracking info, it's coming direct from C&R.

Looks like it's legit and you got a good deal due to a mistake. Their price on the website is $869.00 now.

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by travislambert

Looks like it's legit and you got a good deal due to a mistake. Their price on the website is $869.00 now.

Oh damn!

[AZ_1LE]

Got it today, looks good to me, 3/22/2023 build date 👍🏻

[SpeZ]

Hey folks, since my oil reaches 290°F on track, I want to install the oil cooler as well for safety reasons.

I only have few concerns with the setup. I will be running a 212°F thermostat in the sandwichplate.
After installation its basically necessary to drive around to reach that temperature, once the thermostat opens up, won't it suck air bubbles?

Also when doing oil changes, I will be using compressed air to blow out most of the old oil in the cooler.
Here I would get concerned again on air bubbles after the oil change.

Maybe I should use no thermostat, but then it probably takes too long to get 15W-50 to operating temp.
WOT cranking causes no engine start, but spins the engine, is that enough to fill the entire oil cooler? (If I wouldn't run a thermostat ofc.)

Looking on the mishimoto kit currently, but I probably do the exact setup with the C&R cooler and just use the sandwichplate from mishimoto.

Really appreciate any help.

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by SpeZ

Hey folks, since my oil reaches 290°F on track, I want to install the oil cooler as well for safety reasons.

I only have few concerns with the setup. I will be running a 212°F thermostat in the sandwichplate.
After installation its basically necessary to drive around to reach that temperature, once the thermostat opens up, won't it suck air bubbles?

Also when doing oil changes, I will be using compressed air to blow out most of the old oil in the cooler.
Here I would get concerned again on air bubbles after the oil change.

Maybe I should use no thermostat, but then it probably takes too long to get 15W-50 to operating temp.
WOT cranking causes no engine start, but spins the engine, is that enough to fill the entire oil cooler? (If I wouldn't run a thermostat ofc.)

Looking on the mishimoto kit currently, but I probably do the exact setup with the C&R cooler and just use the sandwichplate from mishimoto.

Really appreciate any help.

When you install the oil cooler, prefill the cooler with oil (don't worry about the lines). Use the Improved Racing 212 thermostat. There is a bypass that allows a small amount of oil to circulate even when the thermostat is closed, this solves the air and thermal shock problems that would otherwise occur when the thermostat first opens.

Don't remove the oil from the cooler during oil changes, just be sure to change your oil frequently enough that it stays relatively clean. Trying to evacuate the oil will cause far more problems than you'll solve. Whether you're adding a valve or removing and reinstalling the cooler lines to remove the oil, the added risk of having an oil leak and subsequent fire outweighs the negligible downside of carrying over a small amount of used oil between changes.

Use the 212-degree thermostat to ensure you're fully burning off moisture from the oil. On a cool day without the thermostat, the oil will stay too cool for too long. I also recommend leaving the OEM oil cooler/heater in place. Removing it has no significant benefit, but there are clear downsides with getting the oil up to temp quickly, etc.

I like Mishimoto in general. They normally sell reasonable products that work for a fair price. When it comes to their 6th Gen Camaro oil cooler kit, it's a terrible design. The way they stack an oil cooler adding a 4th layer of heat exchangers with the hottest in the front makes no sense. While their sandwich plate looks similar to Improved Racing, I wouldn't trust their engineering on this given how badly they dropped the ball on the rest of the kit. Improved Racing's sandwich plate design is top-notch. Spend the money and don't risk your engine.

[Recon13x]

Originally Posted by travislambert

When you install the oil cooler, prefill the cooler with oil (don't worry about the lines). Use the Improved Racing 212 thermostat. There is a bypass that allows a small amount of oil to circulate even when the thermostat is closed, this solves the air and thermal shock problems that would otherwise occur when the thermostat first opens.

Don't remove the oil from the cooler during oil changes, just be sure to change your oil frequently enough that it stays relatively clean. Trying to evacuate the oil will cause far more problems than you'll solve. Whether you're adding a valve or removing and reinstalling the cooler lines to remove the oil, the added risk of having an oil leak and subsequent fire outweighs the negligible downside of carrying over a small amount of used oil between changes.

Use the 212-degree thermostat to ensure you're fully burning off moisture from the oil. On a cool day without the thermostat, the oil will stay too cool for too long. I also recommend leaving the OEM oil cooler/heater in place. Removing it has no significant benefit, but there are clear downsides with getting the oil up to temp quickly, etc.

I like Mishimoto in general. They normally sell reasonable products that work for a fair price. When it comes to their 6th Gen Camaro oil cooler kit, it's a terrible design. The way they stack an oil cooler adding a 4th layer of heat exchangers with the hottest in the front makes no sense. While their sandwich plate looks similar to Improved Racing, I wouldn't trust their engineering on this given how badly they dropped the ball on the rest of the kit. Improved Racing's sandwich plate design is top-notch. Spend the money and don't risk your engine.

This whole thread was a great read due to your posts, I remember initially reading this thread a few years ago and thinking about doing the oil cooler as well eventually. The only thing keeping me back was maintenance, but this last answer solves that.
I do have one question, your original post showing data where IATs were not significantly affected; you show the IAT2 numbers but I understand those to be a calculated number which is not that useful, while the ones actually measured are IAT1 around MAF sensor and IAT3 (same as MAT) post compression. This was shown on my car where recently I had a ton of air in my supercharger circuit (can thank the dealer for that) and would cruise at 170F IAT3, and a hit took me to 190F or even 200+, all while IAT2 was within 25F of IAT1 (IAT1 being around 90F or so, about 5F over ambient on avg). Recently installed an ADM v2 tank and solved that issue, which brought IAT3 way down to 125F cruising and maybe 140F or 150F off a hit with much faster recovery. I haven't checked IAT2 again, but it couldn't have moved in any significant way.
All this long winded information is to ask, assuming I'm not wrong here, do you have any IAT3 or MAT data from your sessions before and after the oil cooler and upgraded H/E for the supercharger? Would love to know the difference for that parameter.
If it's maybe relevant, and I heard from some the car year may affect IAT PIDs, my car is a 2019 ZL1.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Travis, it appears you have chased a LOT of Data and I applaud your efforts... but I have to ask, WHY did you use a sandwich adapter when you could have just removed the joke of "Oil Cooler" heat exchanger which takes ALL the oil straight from the pan sump via pump to the engine?

In fact, if you are using the stock oil filter, at medium/high RPM when the filter can bypass, the oil is not getting cooled at all. To get there, you have to switch to the UPF48R filter from the PF64 which bypasses at 22PSI!! The Bypass in the filter takes the differential pressure across your entire cooler, every turn of a fitting, hose size and the viscosity of the oil/temp... and simply negates the cooler you installed.

I have spent quite a bit of time with my ZL11LE, redesigning the entire engine oil, SCHX and the A10 transmission cooling systems so they are functioning independently and not taxing the other. The OEM Oil to Engine Coolant system is a joke!! This system is great if you wish to drive your ZLE in the snow and want a nice toasty vehicle that drives on ice with studded tires... but its worthless for the real world we track these vehicles at WOT trying not to cord the inside of the front tires.

By NOT removing the Engine to Oil coolant heat exchanger, you are allowing the engine coolant to leave the bottom left of the radiator, take a diversion to the hot 250+degree oil heat and then be dumped into the driver's side of the water pump where it adds a differential coolant temp much higher that now your ECM has to change the timing to the left bank cylinders. Usually cylinders 3 & 5 will have a slight misfire if you have not gapped those plugs a RCH closer than the rest due to the higher saturated heat of the block in that area.

SO... let's look at what you can do if going down the path to cool the oil.

• Use better oil than Mobil1
• Remove the Oil to Water heat Exchanger
• Install the Improved Racing bypass to the side of the oil pan with the proper -10 or -12 hoses.
• Install the Griffin MS impact bar so you can mount the CSR dual bypass oil cooler up top.
• Have a great track day!!

Think about the great reduction of engine heat if the factory engine radiator is not having to deal with the engine's oil cooling as well!!!

Once you see the failure of using a Sandwich plate for the filter, and just using the OEM ports on the pan for what they were designed... everything is perfect!!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Great discussion team... I will second ZLElvira... you MUST remove the OEM Oil Cooler to get the best results.

This also noticeably benefits your coolant temps! I spent alot of time to put together a turn key system here in my Stage.III kit below. Give it a look, I think it would serve you well!



We hide an improved racing high flow in-line thermostat behind the cooler!


https://www.griffin-motorsports.com/...r-impact-frame

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Great discussion team... I will second ZLElvira... you MUST remove the OEM Oil Cooler to get the best results.

This also noticeably benefits your coolant temps! I spent alot of time to put together a turn key system here in my Stage.III kit below. Give it a look, I think it would serve you well!



We hide an improved racing high flow in-line thermostat behind the cooler!


https://www.griffin-motorsports.com/...r-impact-frame

Wow that looks incredible! Talk about some SERIOUS optimization of airflow going on in your package you have assembled there. I dig it a lot. If I had the coin and the time to do a mod like that I definitely would.