[Mark R]

Originally Posted by SammYyYyY

Hey all!

I have a 2018 ZL1 1LE that I purchased back in June of 2022 and have absolutely been loving. I’m currently sitting at about 7,700 miles (I bought the car with 3,800 miles). The car has been in storage for the winter, but one thing has been on my mind and I’m trying to weigh my options on the smartest way to approach it: the dreaded oil pump.

Being a 2018, I am terrified at the notion of a failed oil pump destroying my motor. I would like to get the Katech wet sump oil pump installed as soon as I pull the car out for the next season, but I don’t know where to start. I’m having a hard time finding consistent answers on how labor intensive the process is and how much is it going to cost. I figure that I might be better off upgrading the cam while they are in there, but don’t even know where to start with that (the car is 100% bone stock as it sits).

Any insight would be fantastic; if anybody can provide insight on the average cost of the replacement, any good shops in the Salt Lake City area to do the work, any upgrades I should make while they are in there, any of this would be much appreciated.

I had my dealer replace the pump for $2,800 labor, and the Katech pump was $500. I'm not ever going to do engine work, so I made the decision to just get it done now. I'm very happy I did. Now, no more worries about the pump. I can just enjoy the car.

[MakCamaro]

For those interested, the cost of labor for replacing the oil pump in the UK is 1500 GBP.

[george]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

The oil pump typically does not "spontaneously" fail. The engine asks for 30 PSI of oil pressure at idle. The first stage of the failure is a "half failure" where you don't lose all oil pressure, but you lose a chunk of it. If your idle oil pressure ever falls to 20~ PSI, then you need to start being concerned.

If you spot check your idle oil temp when warmed up and it is 30, you have nothing to worry about currently.

Hope this helps

Thanks, Zach. Should you see the 20 PSI, does that mean there is possible engine damage to the point where there is metal in the engine?
Really appreciate the insight and the work your company has done. This helps put some questions to rest.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by george

Thanks, Zach. Should you see the 20 PSI, does that mean there is possible engine damage to the point where there is metal in the engine?
Really appreciate the insight and the work your company has done. This helps put some questions to rest.

I think 20 psi is only a precursor when the pump is only cracked but not yet completely broken, so if you stop driving the car and get a new pump installed, there would be zero damage.

[george]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

I think 20 psi is only a precursor when the pump is only cracked but not yet completely broken, so if you stop driving the car and get a new pump installed, there would be zero damage.

Thank you. Makes sense. When I had my 920 mile oil change I noticed a fine metallic presence in the oil. Sent it off to Blackstone. That was 100 miles ago. I didn't notice any in this change, But it scared me that the pump was going. I never noticed a change in pressure Idles ate 29-32 PSI when warm. Cold it's in the upper 30's to low 50's. I have been keeping an eye on the pressure.

Here's what Blackstone said:

We noticed some very fine metallic glitter/debris in the sample bottle this time, so that'ssomething to pay attention to. The microscopic wear metals look good -- that's the scale on which ourspectrometer reads metals, so visible metal usually goes undetected in testing. In any case, the visiblemetal may not necessarily signal an issue for your V-8, especially if it runs well. Maybe it's due to lingering
products of break-in since the engine's still got very low miles on it. No immediate issues stand out in thecurrent data or emerging trend. Just check back in ~100 miles.

After 100 miles as they suggested:

We've got nothing but good things to say about these results. It's not clear if it's 10 hours or miles that were put on this oil, but either way, metals are reading just about as low as could be, so there isn't any sign of poor wear or more serious mechanical trouble. For reference, the universal averages show typical metals for an LT-4 that's put about 2,800 miles on the oil. No fuel or coolant contamination was detected, and the viscosity is in spec for 0W/40. Insolubles measured at only a "trace" level, which is acredit to effective oil filtration. Nice report!

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by george

Thank you. Makes sense. When I had my 920 mile oil change I noticed a fine metallic presence in the oil. Sent it off to Blackstone. That was 100 miles ago. I didn't notice any in this change, But it scared me that the pump was going. I never noticed a change in pressure Idles ate 29-32 PSI when warm. Cold it's in the upper 30's to low 50's. I have been keeping an eye on the pressure.

Here's what Blackstone said:

We noticed some very fine metallic glitter/debris in the sample bottle this time, so that'ssomething to pay attention to. The microscopic wear metals look good -- that's the scale on which ourspectrometer reads metals, so visible metal usually goes undetected in testing. In any case, the visiblemetal may not necessarily signal an issue for your V-8, especially if it runs well. Maybe it's due to lingering
products of break-in since the engine's still got very low miles on it. No immediate issues stand out in thecurrent data or emerging trend. Just check back in ~100 miles.

After 100 miles as they suggested:

We've got nothing but good things to say about these results. It's not clear if it's 10 hours or miles that were put on this oil, but either way, metals are reading just about as low as could be, so there isn't any sign of poor wear or more serious mechanical trouble. For reference, the universal averages show typical metals for an LT-4 that's put about 2,800 miles on the oil. No fuel or coolant contamination was detected, and the viscosity is in spec for 0W/40. Insolubles measured at only a "trace" level, which is acredit to effective oil filtration. Nice report!

On your first or even second oil change, you're going to see metallic shavings in the oil. The engine is still being "broken" in and this is pretty normal to see. It's mainly going to be the the engine itself. You're not going to see metallic shavings from the oil pump in the oil until it's completely given out.

Now if you were at 10k miles or 100k miles and saw metal shavings, then it would be something to be worried about. Because something in the engine itself is scraping.

[Katech_Zach]

Originally Posted by george

Thanks, Zach. Should you see the 20 PSI, does that mean there is possible engine damage to the point where there is metal in the engine?
Really appreciate the insight and the work your company has done. This helps put some questions to rest.

We took apart a car/engine that had this level of the failure down to bare components, it had minimal damage. The customer opted to put fresh bearings, rod bolts, and main studs in it as precautionary. We gave him the option to allow reassembly in his case.

I can't guarantee you will have the same results, but if you still have some sort of oil pressure and you don't beat the car to death, i would think you would be in okay shape.

The sooner you catch an issue, the less likely significant damage will occur

[george]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

We took apart a car/engine that had this level of the failure down to bare components, it had minimal damage. The customer opted to put fresh bearings, rod bolts, and main studs in it as precautionary. We gave him the option to allow reassembly in his case.

I can't guarantee you will have the same results, but if you still have some sort of oil pressure and you don't beat the car to death, i would think you would be in okay shape.

The sooner you catch an issue, the less likely significant damage will occur

Zach, thanks again. I'm sure this community appreciates your experience and insight. It really makes a difference for someone who wants to keep this car.

[george]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

On your first or even second oil change, you're going to see metallic shavings in the oil. The engine is still being "broken" in and this is pretty normal to see. It's mainly going to be the the engine itself. You're not going to see metallic shavings from the oil pump in the oil until it's completely given out.

Now if you were at 10k miles or 100k miles and saw metal shavings, then it would be something to be worried about. Because something in the engine itself is scraping.

Thank you. That helps ease the mind.

[SammYyYyY]

Update: Called my dealership and got a quote for a 72 month, 60k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty; I was quoted $3,600 + taxes.

Based on quotes I have received locally for an oil pump replacement ($4,000 + parts from a local well-known performance shop, $3,100 + parts from my local Chevrolet dealership), I'm thinking I might want to do it.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by SammYyYyY

Update: Called my dealership and got a quote for a 72 month, 60k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty; I was quoted $3,600 + taxes.

Based on quotes I have received locally for an oil pump replacement ($4,000 + parts from a local well-known performance shop, $3,100 + parts from my local Chevrolet dealership), I'm thinking I might want to do it.

Do it.

[ramair00]

Originally Posted by SammYyYyY

Update: Called my dealership and got a quote for a 72 month, 60k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty; I was quoted $3,600 + taxes.

Based on quotes I have received locally for an oil pump replacement ($4,000 + parts from a local well-known performance shop, $3,100 + parts from my local Chevrolet dealership), I'm thinking I might want to do it.

Dealership putting in a new GM pump or Katech?

[Mark R]

Katech

[ramair00]

Originally Posted by Mark R

Katech

Good deal. My dealership won't even install a katech..