[activeSS]

I simply swapped out the front speakers with a Kicker component. Nothing more. But the sound quality is incredible from bass to voice. Biggest PITA is the dash midrange/ tweeters. The kit had the adapters and the crossovers.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648K...-48KSS269.html


Just an FYI for anybody interested in much better sound from the base audio system.

[cdb95z28]

Awesome info, thank you!

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by activeSS

I simply swapped out the front speakers with a Kicker component. Nothing more. But the sound quality is incredible from bass to voice. Biggest PITA is the dash midrange/ tweeters. The kit had the adapters and the crossovers.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648K...-48KSS269.html


Just an FYI for anybody interested in much better sound from the base audio system.

Nice choice, that kit is made for cars that have the 6x9 door woofer and 2" dash full range combo.

how did you recreate factory seals from the speaker to the door panel and dash panel? That is an incredibly important step.

[activeSS]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

Nice choice, that kit is made for cars that have the 6x9 door woofer and 2" dash full range combo.

how did you recreate factory seals from the speaker to the door panel and dash panel? That is an incredibly important step.

Not quite sure what you mean. It's pretty simple and straight forward. You are not breaking any seals.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by activeSS

Not quite sure what you mean. It's pretty simple and straight forward. You are not breaking any seals.

The factory speakers have a foam gasket that seals to the plastic cover/panel. This seal is important and something the aftermarket speaker and mount lacks. After 30 years in mobile audio, I've found the best solution is inexpensive closed cell foam gasket (10' roll is $4). You know when you've done it right when you see an indent in the foam gasketing from the panel/cover. Choose a thickness and width based on conditions.

When systems lack these seals, sound gets between the plastic panels and reverberates, causing unpleasant sound and noise. The factory speakers seal perfectly for this reason.

I also use gasketing between bracket and door AND between speaker and bracket.

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by activeSS

I simply swapped out the front speakers with a Kicker component. Nothing more. But the sound quality is incredible from bass to voice. Biggest PITA is the dash midrange/ tweeters. The kit had the adapters and the crossovers.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648K...-48KSS269.html


Just an FYI for anybody interested in much better sound from the base audio system.

Alrighty then, just bought a set.

[Mercurysurfer]

Like the comments, gasket addition is a solid idea. Thanks all

[eaglesfan2006]

Originally Posted by activeSS

I simply swapped out the front speakers with a Kicker component. Nothing more. But the sound quality is incredible from bass to voice. Biggest PITA is the dash midrange/ tweeters. The kit had the adapters and the crossovers.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648K...-48KSS269.html


Just an FYI for anybody interested in much better sound from the base audio system.

no amp? just put these in to be powered by the stock head unit?

[SPreston2001]

Originally Posted by eaglesfan2006

no amp? just put these in to be powered by the stock head unit?

1SS has a stock amp I believe. It’s non Bose but still has a stock amp. I’m wondering what the impedance of the stock speakers are?

[keep_hope_alive]

I can add a visual to my recommendation for seals:


you can see the entire build log, link in my sig.

[p47dman]

Not all 1SS have an amp. Mine did not and I added Kicker 47 Key200.4 amp to mine.

[DualSS]

Originally Posted by activeSS

I simply swapped out the front speakers with a Kicker component. Nothing more. But the sound quality is incredible from bass to voice. Biggest PITA is the dash midrange/ tweeters. The kit had the adapters and the crossovers.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648K...-48KSS269.html


Just an FYI for anybody interested in much better sound from the base audio system.

Did the tweeters fit right in or was modification necessary?

[SomeGeoffGuy]

I have a set of the Audiofrog 6x9 and dash speakers in my garage going in for spring. Was going to try to do something fancy, but I am going back to the bolt ins. I figured time would be better spent with treating the doors than fabbing a mount for an 8" round. The Audiofrog GS25 tweeters (I think they are wide bands actually) are bolt in. They have tabs for a bunch of different models, and you break off the ones you don't use.

-Geoff

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I have a set of the Audiofrog 6x9 and dash speakers in my garage going in for spring. Was going to try to do something fancy, but I am going back to the bolt ins. I figured time would be better spent with treating the doors than fabbing a mount for an 8" round. The Audiofrog GS25 tweeters (I think they are wide bands actually) are bolt in. They have tabs for a bunch of different models, and you break off the ones you don't use.

-Geoff

Nice choice on the speakers. I did the same thing. Yes, the GS25 is a very-wide-band "twiddler" that is specifically designed for this kind of dash mount, where the sound reflects off the windshield. Where the stock speakers are high-passed around 600hz and probably roll off at 10khz, the AFs run from 200hz-20khz. These will make a huge difference in sound quality.

Word to the wise: if you are just swapping these in with factory wiring and amplification and no crossover added, then you be sending full-range signal to the GS25s and that is probably not good for longevity. The factory dash speakers have capacitors across their terminals that serve as high-pass filters, but when you yank those speakers the caps come out with them. If you cut off and reuse those caps, though, you will unnecessarily miss out on some of the low-frequency extension of the speaker (they cut off below about 600-700hz). Try to find some larger caps to put in line (I think I figured that 200uF would give about 200hz cutoff). Of course, if you're adding a crossover or actively crossing over in DSP, then you're good.