[Spartant2112]

Few questions. Sorry if this has been answered but I couldn't find it from the search. All variables have been tested in both sport and track mode with traction on.

1) Does traction control cut off power when losing traction?
When doing 0-60 from a dead stop, I notice the power gets cut off after a shift from first to second. I don't know if it's actually the shift that does it or if I'm losing traction as it shifts, or both, but it'll pull really hard, and once it shifts I'll lose power and then it will pull hard again. I believe the traction light comes on. Only a few times I got it to not do that and I got a 0-60 3.9 but when the power gets cut off it'll be 4.8/9 secs. When doing a rolling start in second I don't have this issue. I just got new tires at the time so maybe now after a few months have passed the traction isn't as good. I'm too scared to turn off traction control to test it.

2) Is launch control automatically engaged?
When doing a dig, I'll rev it but it only goes to 1500 RPMs. I've tried it in all modes and it won't let me go past 1500 RPMs. Foot all the way down on both brakes and gas but it'll only rev to 1500. I know there is a launch control mode but I don't engage it. Is it automatically engaged? If my foot isn't all the way down on the brakes it'll rev higher but then my car will start creeping forward and tires will spin. Once again, I don't want to test it without traction because I don't have wide roads and I don't wanna end up in a ditch.

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by Spartant2112

Few questions. Sorry if this has been answered but I couldn't find it from the search. All variables have been tested in both sport and track mode with traction on.

1) Does traction control cut off power when losing traction?
When doing 0-60 from a dead stop, I notice the power gets cut off after a shift from first to second. I don't know if it's actually the shift that does it or if I'm losing traction as it shifts, or both, but it'll pull really hard, and once it shifts I'll lose power and then it will pull hard again. I believe the traction light comes on. Only a few times I got it to not do that and I got a 0-60 3.9 but when the power gets cut off it'll be 4.8/9 secs. When doing a rolling start in second I don't have this issue. I just got new tires at the time so maybe now after a few months have passed the traction isn't as good. I'm too scared to turn off traction control to test it.

2) Is launch control automatically engaged?
When doing a dig, I'll rev it but it only goes to 1500 RPMs. I've tried it in all modes and it won't let me go past 1500 RPMs. Foot all the way down on both brakes and gas but it'll only rev to 1500. I know there is a launch control mode but I don't engage it. Is it automatically engaged? If my foot isn't all the way down on the brakes it'll rev higher but then my car will start creeping forward and tires will spin. Once again, I don't want to test it without traction because I don't have wide roads and I don't wanna end up in a ditch.

1. Yes, if you get too much tire spin it cuts power. You can disable traction control if you want it to keep spinning. As long as you keep it pointed straight it won’t cut power but if you start getting sideways stability control will kick in and cut power.

2. No, you have to enable Launch Control. Look up the procedure. There are a bunch of videos showing how to do it.

[Owl3]

Any mods or tune?

[Vigilante375]

To speak about the launch control. Don't use it as it's not very good. You can get better and more consistent times without using it.

It only works in track mode. Once it's engaged you have to firmly press the brake and then slam the throttle to the floor to engage it. If the car starts to buck or spin it's tires, let off the gas and try again.

You setup the launch control on the DIC on the dash. I forget which menu but I think settings or something like that. There you can set the RPMs, slip target and whatever else.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by raptor5244

2. No, you have to enable Launch Control. Look up the procedure. There are a bunch of videos showing how to do it.

My experience is that launch control is a total waste.

[Spartant2112]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

To speak about the launch control. Don't use it as it's not very good. You can get better and more consistent times without using it.

It only works in track mode. Once it's engaged you have to firmly press the brake and then slam the throttle to the floor to engage it. If the car starts to buck or spin it's tires, let off the gas and try again.

You setup the launch control on the DIC on the dash. I forget which menu but I think settings or something like that. There you can set the RPMs, slip target and whatever else.

I'm not really asking about using launch control but it seems that my car wont rev past 1500 rpms when launching. I don't go to the menus and engage it. All I do is press the brakes all the way down and put my foot on the gas. All other cars I've driven will start to rev until I break loose and spin, usually past 2k rpms. But for some reason my car will stay at 1500 rpm even with the foot all the way down on the gas. Seems like launch control is automatically engaged. I go through all the menus and it says its disabled. Is this just traction control or am I doing something wrong? Tried in both sport and track mode but it'll lock it at 1500 rpms. Car is stock.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by Spartant2112

I'm not really asking about using launch control but it seems that my car wont rev past 1500 rpms when launching. I don't go to the menus and engage it. All I do is press the brakes all the way down and put my foot on the gas. All other cars I've driven will start to rev until I break loose and spin, usually past 2k rpms. But for some reason my car will stay at 1500 rpm even with the foot all the way down on the gas. Seems like launch control is automatically engaged. I go through all the menus and it says its disabled. Is this just traction control or am I doing something wrong? Tried in both sport and track mode but it'll lock it at 1500 rpms. Car is stock.

Well if you see that launch control is disabled in the menu then it shouldn't engage.

How are you pushing the throttle to the floor? Slow, normal or fast?

[raptor5244]

Originally Posted by JSH

My experience is that launch control is a total waste.

I never use it. I just go old school, rollout and keep it at the edge of grip with the accelerator. I seem to get 3.7-3.8 0-60mph on the built-in timer on the street. I will need a grippier tire and prepped surface if I want to get those 3.4-3.5s you see in the magazines.

[Spartant2112]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

Well if you see that launch control is disabled in the menu then it shouldn't engage.

How are you pushing the throttle to the floor? Slow, normal or fast?

I push throttle normal. Then I realize it limits itself to 1500 rpms and then I'll push it all the way to the floor, not fast, and it doesn't rev any higher. Seems like some kind of limit is engaged but I don't know what.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by Spartant2112

I notice the power gets cut off after a shift from first to second. I don't know if it's actually the shift that does it or if I'm losing traction as it shifts, or both, but it'll pull really hard, and once it shifts I'll lose power and then it will pull hard again. I believe the traction light comes on.

In the A10 during the 1-2 shift at WOT, the engine will cut spark and fuel to momentarily reduce torque instead of closing the throttle plate. When the trans has completed the shift to 2, the mojo comes back on, you hear the exhaust crack and you get a kick in the kidneys as the engine gives you its full 650 ft-lbs almost instantly because the throttle stayed open and blower never slowed down.

If your tires are not sticky, then they will probably spin and your traction light will blink.

2-3 will behave similarly but you won't feel it kick as hard due to the gearing. Big HP guys know tires spin easily here too... and it can be far more dangerous due to velocity (mustangs are crowd killers here).

4-5 and up will shift more traditionally.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by Spartant2112

I push throttle normal. Then I realize it limits itself to 1500 rpms and then I'll push it all the way to the floor, not fast, and it doesn't rev any higher. Seems like some kind of limit is engaged but I don't know what.

That's a new one to me. When launch control is active it'll only activate with you pushing the throttle to the floor very fast with your foot on the brake. Of you do it any slower it'll not work. The car with buck around like you're on a bronco.

Does your car have any mods? Are you the original owner? And this is an M6 correct? If it is, I'm not familiar on how the M6 acts on shifts other than the no lift shift feature.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

In the A10 during the 1-2 shift at WOT, the engine will cut spark and fuel to momentarily reduce torque instead of closing the throttle plate. When the trans has completed the shift to 2, the mojo comes back on, you hear the exhaust crack and you get a kick in the kidneys as the engine gives you its full 650 ft-lbs almost instantly because the throttle stayed open and blower never slowed down.

If your tires are not sticky, then they will probably spin and your traction light will blink.

2-3 will behave similarly but you won't feel it kick as hard due to the gearing. Big HP guys know tires spin easily here too... and it can be far more dangerous due to velocity (mustangs are crowd killers here).

4-5 and up will shift more traditionally.

Could the cut of spark and fuel your describing be potentially happening at 1500 RPMs and not WOT? I’ve been having a rough/clunky/will even sit in neutral for a half second sometimes before it engages 2. All of this after dealer having car for 20 days to replace several transmission parts that were causing this issue for me in higher gears. Shifts much better the harder I am on it, and shifts exponentially worse when the RPMs are low to barely rolling… only in 1-2 upshifts. The dealer fixed most of the other gears but after about a week of getting it back I noticed the 1-2 shift was way too rough ONLY under light pedal. They replaced a ton of mechanical stuff but I wonder if they fudged the tune or something.. at a loss

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by taylorforschool@gmail.com

Could the cut of spark and fuel your describing be potentially happening at 1500 RPMs and not WOT?

No, sorry to say your trans is still broke.

The A10's 1-2 shift is like any other automatic-trans under part throttle... slow and smooth.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

No, sorry to say your trans is still broke.

The A10's 1-2 shift is like any other automatic-trans under part throttle... slow and smooth.

What I figured. Thanks

Back to dealer Monday