[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Or use beadlocks…

Agree the bead locks are the cat meow but if you don't want to spend 1200 a wheel then this is what MT recommended to me on the Tech Line. I've done this on the last 5 sets of drag radials and 1 set of Hoosier since I couldn't drill the hole in the right place on the Race Star Wheels and I've never had any movement in the tire on the wheel. I always mark the tire and stem to make sure it doesn't move.

[WillyZ83]

Originally Posted by clg82

Looking at doing this myself, thanks for the suggestions. OP where did you buy your wheels from?

Got them from drag racing wheels.com lightweight wheels and look like they’re decent from what I’ve read about them.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by WillyZ83

Got them from drag racing wheels.com lightweight wheels and look like they’re decent from what I’ve read about them.

Willy can you post a pic of your wheels that you bought.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Willy can you post a pic of your wheels that you bought.

https://dragracingwheels.com/forgest...-f27270022p44/

Binged it for ya...

[WillyZ83]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

https://dragracingwheels.com/forgest...-f27270022p44/

Binged it for ya...

He beat me to it! That’s the ones

[clg82]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

If you're going to run a slick on the rear, you need to run a skinny up front and not a radial tire. If you run a drag radial you can run about 18 to 22 lbs at the track. Its been a while since I ran a slick on the rear but I think I ran about 14 to 16 lbs with the Hoosiers, you'll either need to screw them down or use Permatex High Tack Cement on the beads to keep them from spinning on the wheels. I use the Cement on the drag radials also.

So would you consider these (305/45/17 ET Street R) a slick or drag radial? And how difficult is it to use that cement that you speak of?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by clg82

So would you consider these (305/45/17 ET Street R) a slick or drag radial? And how difficult is it to use that cement that you speak of?

ET Street R is a DOT-approved drag radial.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

ET Street R is a DOT-approved drag radial.

Yep...and the street tears them up fast. They are designed mainly for the track with light street use.

[WillyZ83]

What tire pressure are you guys running for the ET Street R?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by WillyZ83

What tire pressure are you guys running for the ET Street R?

I try to run 18 psi at the track. Sometimes I have to go a bit less based on track conditions. But your power level, how hard you launch, temps, etc all play a role too.

[WillyZ83]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

I try to run 18 psi at the track. Sometimes I have to go a bit less based on track conditions. But your power level, how hard you launch, temps, etc all play a role too.

My zl1 is pretty much stock, minus a CAI so guessing more like low 20s

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by WillyZ83

Got them from drag racing wheels.com lightweight wheels and look like they’re decent from what I’ve read about them.

Don't mean to be a show off, but don't these look better? And glue be damned!

[JSH]

I've got but am not using the F14 beadlocks https://www.jegs.com/i/Forgestar+Whe...RoC1m0QAvD_BwE

My MT ET Street R wobbled like crazy so I sold them. Using Toyo R888R 325 on OEM wheels and changing to 345.

[WillyZ83]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

Don't mean to be a show off, but don't these look better? And glue be damned!

If I had some more HP I would justify spending more but mine in stock form I couldn’t justify beadlocks. Those do look nasty though