[Sillysspeed]

I’ve heard more than one person say that skinnies don’t make a difference on roll racing. But definitely in drag racing. Problem with 18” skinnies and the Mickey tires are actually a pretty heavy combo - well the tire is heavy. Not much difference in weight

I’ve used 17” Mickey R bias ply and radial on my turbo c5 Never had a stability issue with the radials like some of the guys on here say but the bias ply did walk all over the street under acceleration.

[Dan82679]

Originally Posted by Sillysspeed

I’ve heard more than one person say that skinnies don’t make a difference on roll racing. But definitely in drag racing. Problem with 18” skinnies and the Mickey tires are actually a pretty heavy combo - well the tire is heavy. Not much difference in weight

I’ve used 17” Mickey R bias ply and radial on my turbo c5 Never had a stability issue with the radials like some of the guys on here say but the bias ply did walk all over the street under acceleration.

Good point,the brakes make it hard to run a small rim and tire in the front.

[asthmamax11]

So the bead locks keep the tire from sliding around the wheel ?

The larger diameter wheel keeps car more stable at high speeds ?

Sorry to hijack thread

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

So the bead locks keep the tire from sliding around the wheel ?

The larger diameter wheel keeps car more stable at high speeds ?

Sorry to hijack thread

The beadlocks stop the wheel from spinning in the tire, which would screw up your wheel balance big time. This will happen in higher HP cars that can hook at the track. Most drag cars run 17” (or preferably 15” using different rear brakes) as that gives you more sidewall, which helps your launch at the track.

Larger wheels have less sidewall, so more stability at high speeds plus better handling.

So, as an example, I run 17” beadlocks at the track, but run 20” 1LE wheels with R888Rs on the street since I’d rather have the handling and high speed stability. Hope that helps.

[asthmamax11]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

The beadlocks stop the wheel from spinning in the tire, which would screw up your wheel balance big time. This will happen in higher HP cars that can hook at the track. Most drag cars run 17” (or preferably 15” using different rear brakes) as that gives you more sidewall, which helps your launch at the track.

Larger wheels have less sidewall, so more stability at high speeds plus better handling.

So, as an example, I run 17” beadlocks at the track, but run 20” 1LE wheels with R888Rs on the street since I’d rather have the handling and high speed stability. Hope that helps.

Yes it does. Thanks for explaining this

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

... screw up your wheel balance big time....

I tried Mickeys on 17" bead locks but never found a way to stop vibration at high speeds, so I now run Toyos on the stock 19" wheel

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JSH

I tried Mickeys on 17" bead locks but never found a way to stop vibration at high speeds, so I now run Toyos on the stock 19" wheel

I had my setup road force balanced and is smooth as silk.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

I would run a 18x12.5-13 and either a Hoosier A7 or Toyo RR in a 345/35/18. Currently around 1kwhp in my C7Z and it hooks after 70-80 with the Hoosier. The taller Toyo RR is going on next. Big power C6 ZR1 guys like to run that tire.

The Toyo R888R in a 325/30/20 with a 20x11.5 works great on my ZL1 but it’s only around 700/700 on power.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by CamOnlyJabroni

I would run a 18x12.5-13 and either a Hoosier A7 or Toyo RR in a 345/35/18. Currently around 1kwhp in my C7Z and it hooks after 70-80 with the Hoosier. The taller Toyo RR is going on next. Big power C6 ZR1 guys like to run that tire.

The Toyo R888R in a 325/30/20 with a 20x11.5 works great on my ZL1 but it’s only around 700/700 on power.

All of this with traction control "on?"

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by CamOnlyJabroni

The Toyo R888R in a 325/30/20 with a 20x11.5 works great on my ZL1 but it’s only around 700/700 on power.

Agree on the R888R. I’ve got the 315/30/20 on OEM 1LE rears and they hook nice with the boost turned down to roughly the same power level as CamOnlyJabroni. I’ll turn it up to kill once we get a warm day and I’ll try to get a feel for where they’re happy (likely 40-50 MPH roll).

[swaffle12]

Originally Posted by Dan82679

I currently have 750 whp and have the nitto55r2 on the stock rim and they are working good for me. I mostly do Highway pulls and go to the drag strip 2-4 times a year.

I'm going to get some mods done and I'm going to be in the 850-900 whp range. Is there a radial and rim that would work for highway cruising and the occasional drag strip that won't break my drive line?

Are your R2s 305/30/20 (assuming your not 1LE)? I’m roughly 780whp and was looking into these. I’ve heard sometimes Nittos run a little narrow and that you could look into a 315. Also heard about getting a 3x5/35 too just for a bit more sidewall.

Not trying to hijack thread, was just curious.