[cjperformance]

I promised a summary of all the things that needed to get done to "fix" the canned tune. Here's my list as I recall it. Please do your own research, and don't assume this is a comprehensive list. I'm still learning, and I have probably missed some things that I haven't discovered yet.

I do NOT recommend using the canned procharger tune at all except maybe as a way to initially drive it for tuning purposes, but for the additional cost.... not even sure its worth it if you have access to helpful folks on the forum like I was fortunate to have.

The steps below describe starting from that canned tune. There are many more changes needed if you are starting with the stock tune.

- dont assume because it's an official canned tune that it is safe. IMO, it is not. And you will not get the advertised power gains using it.
- wideband definitely needs to be installed and logging done after an install
- maf frequency needed tuning
- canned tune doesn't trigger power enrichment at WOT at high rpms. Commanded afr/lambda is 1.0 at something like 5400 RPMS and higher.
----> fix power enrichment trigger points and enrichment %
- canned tune uses "odd" timing curve that starts very low at low rpms, and ramps up very high at the top end.
---->honestly i'm thankful my engine is still in one piece with the high timing and afr I was getting.
---->I found the opposite curve to be needed. Starting at higher degrees of timing at low-mid rpms and taper down to somewhere in the neighborhood of 11-13 degrees at the top.
- stock low side fueling is TOTALLY inadequate with proper afrs.
---->with proper power enrichment at between .790-.825 lamda (depending on who you ask), low side was running out of fuel (down to 30 psi at times) and starving the high side.
---->during hot weather (90+ degrees F ambient), it was very borderline about keeping up, close to leaning out, if not actually leaning out at the very top.
---->during cooler weather (80 degrees F or less), it was absolutely running out of fuel at .8 lamda over 5500 rpms and leaning out. Obvious points in the log where high and low side fuel pressure plummeted and rpms were not increasing.
---->fix was adding an aux low side fuel pump, could have also replaced the in-tank pump with a higher flow pump instead of, or in addition to the aux pump. The aux pump should support any future mods up to 900 HP, whereas installing an OEM LT4 in tank pump had much less potential.
- high side fueling marginal at best
---->with the low side fueling keeping pressures at approx 80 psi the high side is still extremely borderline.
---->while high side psi is being maintained at around 2300 PSI, the injector pulse width is close to 6 ms across a significant rpm band, and still exceeds 6.2 ms under certain conditions.
---->fix (yet to be implemented) is to install at minimum the oem LT4 high side fuel pump and the oem LT4 fuel injectors, which (i believe) flow 30% more than the LT1 injectors.

[cjperformance]

LT4 high side is installed, and tune updated. Looking really really good so far. I only did a quick break-in drive with one or two REALLY quick blips on the throttle after seeing the part throttle was in good shape. Will do some more logging tomorrow. Not sure if anyone still monitoring this thread, so just ask questions if you want more detail. Otherwise, I feel like I'm just talking to myself

[Eldi Z]

I am definitely here and following up LoL

When you say "high side", do you mean that you installed the complete "set": Injectors, HPFP and its hard-pipes/ fuel lines?

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

I am definitely here and following up LoL

When you say "high side", do you mean that you installed the complete "set": Injectors, HPFP and its hard-pipes/ fuel lines?

Yep. LT4 HPFP and LT4 Injectors. The "intermediate pipe" and "crossover pipe" are required (yellow tags). Found out that they are a crush fit, which is why you have to replace them every time you even loosen them up.

I previously did the DSX low-side aux pump.

Next step I think is going to be figuring out if there's anyone around me that sells E85, and install the DSX e85 sensor... and then do the required tune updates.

Here's a few images for the fun of it. There's a lot of discussion about the need for a catch can. My intake valve looking kinda sad.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Yep. LT4 HPFP and LT4 Injectors. The "intermediate pipe" and "crossover pipe" are required (yellow tags). Found out that they are a crush fit, which is why you have to replace them every time you even loosen them up.

I previously did the DSX low-side aux pump.

Next step I think is going to be figuring out if there's anyone around me that sells E85, and install the DSX e85 sensor... and then do the required tune updates.

Here's a few images for the fun of it. There's a lot of discussion about the need for a catch can. My intake valve looking kinda sad.

Nice work CJ. I've had good luck with the Mighty Mouse Wild setup FWIW.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Yep. LT4 HPFP and LT4 Injectors. The "intermediate pipe" and "crossover pipe" are required (yellow tags). Found out that they are a crush fit, which is why you have to replace them every time you even loosen them up.



Here's a few images for the fun of it. There's a lot of discussion about the need for a catch can. My intake valve looking kinda sad.

Nice

How many miles on the motor so far?
Intake valves, don't look too bad....seen much worse

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Nice work CJ. I've had good luck with the Mighty Mouse Wild setup FWIW.

Is the most important reason to add a catch can, in order to reduce pressure?

In the Mighty Mouse setup, I don't like the breather filter protruding at the top of the can...would there be a way to relocate this filter?
I guess it should be possible to add some kind of flex-hose and route the filter away / out of sight...

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Is the most important reason to add a catch can, in order to reduce pressure?

In the Mighty Mouse setup, I don't like the breather filter protruding at the top of the can...would there be a way to relocate this filter?
I guess it should be possible to add some kind of flex-hose and route the filter away / out of sight...

If your tune is spot on, you’re less likely to experience blowby IMO. But the MM only vents if you develop crankcase pressure, which is perfect. Both reasons are important.

They make a remote mount top too if you prefer.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

Nice

How many miles on the motor so far?
Intake valves, don't look too bad....seen much worse

25k mi or so.

About 2k with the procharger i think.

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

LT4 high side is installed, and tune updated. Looking really really good so far. I only did a quick break-in drive with one or two REALLY quick blips on the throttle after seeing the part throttle was in good shape. Will do some more logging tomorrow. Not sure if anyone still monitoring this thread, so just ask questions if you want more detail. Otherwise, I feel like I'm just talking to myself

You’re not talking to yourself. Keep going, I’m still following!

[cjperformance]

Got a chance to do a couple WOT pulls. Words can not describe how much better it is running now.

Ambient temps are way down today compared to most of my other logs, so it's running fantastically on the colder air. MAF lb/min are higher than I've seen previously, peaking at around 80 lbs/min a couple times. Prev was around 72 lbs/min max in warmer weather.

So that's due primarily to the temperature. Now on to the changes due to the high side change.

First thing I looked at was injector pw. We are down to about 4.5ms max! With the LT1 system, i'm sure it would have been exceeding 6.2 in this temperature. I do need to adjust my PE to be a little richer as the LT4 setup is tending to run just slightly leaner with the same MAF calibration. I prob should have added 5% fuel before doing the run, but instead I just did progressively longer WOT runs while watching AFR. Until I was comfortable it wasn't going to go crazy lean.

Also still getting some KR in oddball places. Thought I had that nuked with my last set of timing changes, but since AFR is now around .825-835 at WOT instead of the previous .800 with the LT1 fueling, it may be solved by adjusting my PE with the new LT4 stuff to be a little lower. KR is frequently coming on after my foot has been down for a while, and manifold temps are coming back up. Overall, commanded is sticking to actual AFR within a percent or two except for a couple of areas that might need tweaking.

Best of all, I verified that the gas station just 1 mile from my house sells E85. So I def think some E is in the very near future. I dont have a ton of info on the E85 tune changes required, but Goat Rope Garage has a vid on that, and it didn't look too bad. Just make sure your stoich tables are set up, and then figure out how much timing to add at each eth % level. My understanding with the LT4 high side, is I'll probably be limited to around E50 at the most. Prob going to do whatever I can to keep the inj PW lower than 5.5ms. I dont want to get back to that borderline state again and start maxing out the system again.

Going to try to get the PE AFR back down around .80-.81 and then I think maybe another run at the track will be safe.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

If your tune is spot on, you’re less likely to experience blowby IMO. But the MM only vents if you develop crankcase pressure, which is perfect. Both reasons are important.

They make a remote mount top too if you prefer.

OK, so good reasons to include a catch can then...
A remote mount-top would mean that the filter itself can be relocated to a different place in the engine bay?

What about Elite? Do they have a pressure venting solution with their cans?

[KingLT1]

I run a standard catch can with a metco valve cover breather that has the check valve disk. So yes there are other options for venting crank case pressure.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I run a standard catch can with a metco valve cover breather that has the check valve disk. So yes there are other options for venting crank case pressure.

OK King. Basically it is the crank case pressure that worries me, not so much catching the oil / fluids vapors.

Talking about pressure: Do you believe that replacing the front crank seal to an LS3 unit is vital? Is the LT1's seal so much of a downgrade?