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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2016 Camaro SS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 12
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Doing fuel system after ProCharger?
Hi -
Looking to do a ProCharger on my '16 SS (Stage II IC, race BOV, P1-X). Mild build for street, will never see a proper drag strip or road course, might see Tail of the Dragon, and lots of spirited country driving. I know if I keep it to the base system and a good tuner (I'll be working with JRE) I will be safe with the stock fuel system, but I also know that if I do the fuel system I can swap the pulley and get a bit more out of my efforts. With the cost of the fuel system, I was thinking about waiting until a bit after the initial install to go back and do it. How much money/time/effort do I save by doing the fuel system at the same time as the PC? If this something where I say 6 months later "I want the other 50 HP I left on the table by not doing the fuel system" and I'm furious with myself for not doing it the first go-round? Or should I delay the PC install a few months and do it all at once? (Waiting for "get a Maggie" from Laynlo lolol) Thanks! J.Ja |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 LT1 M6 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: South, the DEEP south
Posts: 1,114
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#3 | |
![]() Drives: 2016 Camaro SS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 12
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Quote:
I guess the next question is, "how much work is it, and can I do it myself?" ![]() J.Ja |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 LT1 M6 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: South, the DEEP south
Posts: 1,114
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That's a whole different story, for my mechanical skills and convenience, I would feel comfortable doing the LT4 injectors and LT4 high pressure pump since they are easily accessible after removing the intake manifold. The low pressure pump is in the tank, and I would absolutely hate doing that myself since basically everything has to be unbolted to gain access, a huge time consuming pain in the ass in my eyes. You need all three done at once to be able to pulley down safely.
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 149
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If you have removed the exhaust low pressure pump/ gas tank removal isn't much more work then that. You don't need to fully remove the DS you can just drop the rear of the DS and remove the gas tank at an angle. Can be done on jack stands but not a fun r&r by any means.
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#6 |
![]() Drives: 2020 Civic Sport 2022 1SS on order Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Marysville, OH
Posts: 12
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Can the stock bottom end still be considered reliable by adding that fuel system and using a smaller pulley to make more than 7 psi? I'd save for a forged internal set up first if it were me.
__________________
My daily is a tuned 2020 Civic Sport Hatchback. My 2022 1SS auto is on order currently awaiting it to be built and delivered. Avatar is my previous Camaro.
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 LT1 M6 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: South, the DEEP south
Posts: 1,114
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If the tune is spot on, and the LT4 fuel system upgrade was installed correctly, the factory internals will hold. I would keep it around 700whp and not do more without at least drop in pistons and rods. Sufficient fuel upgrades and perfect tunes is what keeps the factory sealed engine guys in the game for the long run.
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2016 Camaro SS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 12
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Thanks to everyone for the advice, it's much appreciated! I think I'll be getting someone to help me with the fuel system, every time I remove a gasket on something it leaks afterwards hahaha... I won't be going anywhere near 700 WHP, I have read about half the posts in this forum now on this, and I don't have E85 available by me and I don't want to mess with meth or anything like that. Just want a DD that's fun.
![]() J.Ja |
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