[6spdhyperblue]

That was me. I went back and edited my earlier post rather than create a new one. To be clear it didn’t rattle. It’s a horizontal left right lighter wobble before you get to the stiffer left right. I am running the ball at its tallest setting so I’m running more leverage than if it was lower.

[JCunningham]

if you edit it doesnt notify anyone.

[JCunningham]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

Thanks. The only issue I see is that it might be easier for the shifter to pop out of gear? I'm trying to think of downsides to this change. I also have the Hurst shifter.

the ebay washers are too thick. maybe 1 of the Dorman 65277 copper washers will work. i put 2 of the silver ebay washers on and the shifter was way too lose. i put one on and it is still too loose after driving. you cant find gears its so loose. im going to have to drop the exhaust and drive shaft to lower the trans to remove the detent.

[JCunningham]

Originally Posted by Dixie ZL1

I performed the mod today and it’s well worth the $7 and 1 hour investment. I did it in my garage on quick lifts, but jack stands are fine. You have to unbolt the trans cross member and drop the back of the trans to get access, but it’s not a big deal.

I installed two crush washers and it’s still more effort than the stock shifter, but to me it’s just right. Ensure you apply thread sealant (not locker) to avoid seepage.

on mine it is too loose wit h1 of those washers. when you dropped the trans did you have to drop the exhaust and drive shaft? ill have to redo mine tomorrow.

[6spdhyperblue]

I’m gonna pull my single dorman washer out in the morning

[6spdhyperblue]

Update: Well that sucked for such a little job. Got it done without dropping the driveshaft.

Unbolted and lowered exhaust at the collector. Lowered the trans cross member. The wrench combo that got it done: multi point 15/16 short socket and a breaker bar wrench with that pivot swivel end. Go in straightish get it on and then move it toward 90* to be able to turn it.

[JCunningham]

i wouldnt bother doing this mod. even the dormen washer just makes a spot were there is no resistance in side to side movement. What needs to be replaced id the spring in the detent. i will look into that sometime. I do highly recommend the reverse spring replacment though.

[JCunningham]

i guess 1 dorman washer is fine. not sure its worth the trouble but not worth removing it.

[Timbo-1LE]

The stock shifter in a 1LE is pretty good, but does get wonky sometimes going into third unless you do the proper palm push motion... Is the Hurst really that much better? And when someone said track, did you mean road or strip? Thx

[ACZ28]

Originally Posted by Timbo-1LE

The stock shifter in a 1LE is pretty good, but does get wonky sometimes going into third unless you do the proper palm push motion... Is the Hurst really that much better? And when someone said track, did you mean road or strip? Thx

I would say yes. The shorter throw does take a bit more effort to get into gear (normal driving) but it does feel very positive/precise. The centering is quite strong as well so you can be pretty confident with the 2-3 not becoming a 2-1. Only referring to straight line...I've never done any road course racing and I'm sure the factory shifter would be fine for most folks there as I don't believe your goal is to shift as fast as possible, even though you're doing a lot more shifting. I could be wrong about that but I'd think you wouldn't want unnecessary traction issues (1-2, 2-3 or 3-4) unless you're pointed pretty straight.

[Timbo-1LE]

Thanks. 2-3 shift gets wonky after the car has run 20± minutes