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#29 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,537
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#30 | |
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Moderator
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: New Ipswich NH
Posts: 6,350
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__________________
2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, ATI 8L90, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors & BB HPFP, TooHighPSI/Katech port injection, 15” conversion 1066 WHP STD/1027 SAE, 9.10@152.5 (new times coming)
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#31 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,537
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801, sae on a 2650.
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#32 |
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Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: clark, mo
Posts: 8,882
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#33 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,537
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#34 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2024 CT5-V Blackwing Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: GA
Posts: 3,557
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![]() My other issue is that, you always post shit on anyone that decides to do anything with the stock blower and try to force a Maggie 2650R down their throat. I can at least accept it in this thread to some degree since you started this thread about the stock blower IATs so at least the topic at hand relates to the stock blower. In general though, I have a problem with you trying to always talk people out of doing anything with the stock blower. I think most people know the Maggie 2650R is a better blower, literally no one disputes that from a pure performance standpoint, but there's a point where it makes sense to own one, and there's a point where it doesn't and cost is a big factor. When it costs almost $7K for a 2650R, that's a tough pill to swallow for a lot of people unless you really need a blower than can support upwards of 800hp. I get that its more efficient at cooling but not everyone will need that too. If you're hot lapping at a drag strip or road racing it may have some benefit. You make a reference that these cars have power levels that vary on the dyno, I assume because you're implying that they heat soak. No one races on a dyno, its a tuning tool. A fan on a dyno doesn't cool the car nearly as good as a car that's actually moving so a lot of the heat soak you're talking about isn't happening as bad on the street or the track. There's also good options for improved cooling such as upgraded heat exchangers. Sure I get that the cooling bricks in the stock blower aren't as good as the 2650R, but that doesn't mean that improved heat exchangers don't help a good bit as long as the car is moving between pulls. A KONG ported blower and snout costs about $1300 and its worth about 30-40whp, that's a pretty decent gain for such a small investment. For someone that is going full bolt-on without going into the engine, 700whp is about the max power these cars will make without meth or additional fueling and that's more than enough power for MOST people. It doesn't make sense to add a Maggie 2650R for this level of power so a stock ported blower has its place and its reasonably priced. No one is telling you how to spend your money, but you sure like to tell people how to spend theirs and I have issues with you trying to make people feel stupid for even considering anything other than what you recommend. |
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#35 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2024 CT5-V Blackwing Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: GA
Posts: 3,557
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#36 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2024 CT5-V Blackwing Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: GA
Posts: 3,557
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#37 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 7,666
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The point of going to a larger blower on 93 is it's ability to remain cooler post pull and much faster temp recovery time. The goal is to stay below the IAT vs Spark retard thresholds. For example, on my Car it will not pull timing till 154 degrees. I also run Ethanol which allows the ability to run full timing even with Higher MAT if need be even though I have never seen 154 after a pull. Many folks tend to focus too hard on MAT and IAT. The biggest thing that often gets overlooked is Cylinder Temp and/or EGT. You can have really low IAT and MAT but really high Cylinder Temps. Compression, octane, boost, and timing all are factors in CT's. LT4's to some degree(but they are built for it) and especially LT1's produce very high Cylinder Temps with 93 octane. Folks throw meth kits on thinking they are cooling things down because it lowers IAT. The reality is that 100% meth injected pre throttle body creates more heat even though it adds octane to reduce detonation. So it's a double edge sword. This is why many have blown up SBE LT1's on pump 93 with Meth. Water injection is what removes the heat but it can actually reduce HP a little. However it will drastically lower cylinder temps. Nobody wants to run water because all they look at is Hp gains. Then there is that cheap race fuel we know AS E85. It's literally they best stuff you can run on a FI motor. It makes more power and is ultra effective at pulling heat out of the cylinder. So you can get away with higher MAT and still run full timing and not detonate or have drastically high cylinder temps which is what will cause the rings to butt on a LT1. I know we are talking about LT4 stuff here but my touch on LT1 stuff still applies to some degree. Moral of the story is you would help the stock supercharger drastically by running E85. Even though the MAT might be high with your mods, the E85 will effectively cool the cylinder temp on combustion and allow full timing even with the higher MAT's. In the end the goal is to be able to complete combustion with optimal timing and no Knock Retard. That is why LT4's still gain big power on E even with lower compression because the boost is so hot. If you are hell bent on running 93 then a 2650 is what I would be putting on it as I have mentioned in our PM's. The issue is cost. To run E60 you will need fuel system upgrades. Between the stock blower porting and fuel upgrades cost, that would almost buy a 2650.
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2016 NFG SS A8/Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel |
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#38 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '20 ZLE Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Mile High
Posts: 4,195
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My fallback is that when I go to the road course or drags, I'll flash the 104 u/l tune which can be as cool or hot as we want it to be. Of course, at the drags there's a ton of downtime between runs. Also, Bandimere's staging lanes are ~100 or more yds long with a severe downhill slope so you can coast all the way to the stop sign without cranking. As I said in a previous post, if this route doesn't work out, I'll do a larger blower. Everything I've done to the car will work with a larger blower like a 2650, and I would need to add a high side pump. Of course I would sell the ported blower and recoup something
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2020 ZL1LE A10.
LME LT4 390 short block, LME CID Heads, Kong E2650, FBO. 15" conversion, MT ET Street R 325/15. 100 octane: 1045hp/1055tq. 100 octane + Meth (1x10+): 1117 hp/1067 tq |
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#39 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 Riverside Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,139
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#40 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2018 HBM ZLE Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: In the garage
Posts: 891
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Z OH 6 makes a good point, my goal is 700 whp. I shouldn't need a bigger blower to get close. Along with running some ethanol, and the ported blower, Temps should be lower and like has been said its $1200-1400 for the porting. To each their own and spend your money how you want but for me and my power goal it makes sense. Every situation is different and if you want to run a bigger blower and have the cash then more power to you.
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#41 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 Riverside Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,139
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#42 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2019 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,537
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